Wine impressions 4-3-26

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
Wine Impressions 4-3-26

2022 Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne Epineuil - medium bodied, cool climate Pinot, silky textures, some complexity, nice finish. Has withdrawn slightly since release but is still charming. Fine.

2022 Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne Epineuil Cuvée Juliette - also medium bodied but a clenched fist of a wine that has turned inward almost completely. Does not wish to come out and play but should develop nicely.

2021 Cune, Rioja Crianza - medium bodied, old world, complex wine that is made well and will last much longer than I intend to hold any bottles. This has become a house red for us and does not seem to shut down. Fine.

2023 Marc Dupas, Bourgogne Les Percelles - in the past, this has been easy to drink - this bottle was not. I do not suspect a problem in the wine but I do think my tastes have changed. Not pleasant.

2024 Ilarria, Irouleguy, Rose - this is well made, distinctive and thirst quenching but one has to be ready to taste outside the box. An acquired taste.

2023 Zlatan Otok, Bilo Idro Marina Cuvée - Croatian wine from the island of Hvar, several indigenous varieties in its cepage, bright, crisp but now with more depth and density than on release; for drinking with fresh seafood while overlooking the ocean (or when such is your mood).
Screw cap. Fine.

2023 Ayrarakis, Plyto Psarades Vineyard - from Crete; Plyto is indigenous and is fairly complex, has a good acid spine, tastes of the sea with a hint of peach and seems prepared to develop if held. Fine.

2023 Kontozisis, Malagousis - here too I find a hint of peach, good acid snap, surprising length. I want to hold a few of these as I think more is lurking. Fine.

2023 Dom. Zafeirakis, Assyrtiko - this is superb, worth double or more its retail price, and absolutely hums with energy and deliciousness. I’m into my third case of this and I know I did not buy enough. Very fine.

2023 Goisot, Cotes d’Auxerre - usually, I would just buy a case of this every year and run out early. But in this vintage, the ripeness got away from them and it’s a bit muddy and non-descript; and time in the cellar is not yet helping. 14% abv stated. Not for me.

2023 Dolceacqua, Posau - Rossese (a/k/a Tibouren) from an amphitheater vineyard between the sea and the alps. Medium bodied, silky texture, lively and bright red fruits, without much fruit sweetness. Reminds me of the Clos Cibonne version of rouge. I like it now and I hear good things come to those who wait. Fine.

2024 Pepiere, Muscadet Briords - I would never have believed it but this is the first Briords (after countless vintages) that does not impress. It is a good, workhorse Muscadet and my wife likes it. But I expect more of this cuvée. Good.

2024 Sainte Celine, Chablis - $17 at Trader Joe’s and as good an inexpensive white wine as I have found. A pointe Chablis character, is even more typical on day two and this is remarkably well crafted. Made by Brocard (although the name does not appear on the label) and our house white for several years now. Fine.

2023 Louis Michel, Chablis Forets - not especially giving at present but the “stuff” is there. Hold. Fine.

2023 Louis Michel, Chablis Montee de Tonnerre - lovely wine, with character, nuance, depth and length. I am guessing this will withdraw a bit over the next year but I doubt it will shut down. Pedigree tells. Very fine.

2023 Dom. des Ardoisieres, Silice Blanc - 100% Jacquere, 11% abv, and one of the most captivating white wines I have had this year. Beautiful balance, intense but not shrill, deep but not round, full of energy and life force and wonderful with food. A great wine. Very fine, indeed.
Thanks Claude.

Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:

2023 Dom. des Ardoisieres, Silice Blanc - 100% Jacquere, 11% abv, and one of the most captivating white wines I have had this year. Beautiful balance, intense but not shrill, deep but not round, full of energy and life force and wonderful with food. A great wine. Very fine, indeed.

Sounds great. And this is the just the 'entry-level' wine. Have you had the Cuvee Argile?
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Florida Jim:

2023 Dom. des Ardoisieres, Silice Blanc - 100% Jacquere, 11% abv, and one of the most captivating white wines I have had this year. Beautiful balance, intense but not shrill, deep but not round, full of energy and life force and wonderful with food. A great wine. Very fine, indeed.

Sounds great. And this is the just the 'entry-level' wine. Have you had the Cuvee Argile?
I have not.
I never even heard of this producer until Claude wrote about this wine.
I will look for it.
 
weird about Goisot, to the extent that (in the general area, i.e. chablis and the burbs) I had struggled with ripeness/softness in 2022, but have so far found the 23s quite refreshing and even classic
 
People here are likely sick of me talking about the TJ Brocard, but since we're the Brocard bros on this...I similarly have found the '24 to come on steam a bit since release, and indeed day two even better. Lovely drink and I will say I paid $16 for ours...
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Florida Jim:

2023 Dom. des Ardoisieres, Silice Blanc - 100% Jacquere, 11% abv, and one of the most captivating white wines I have had this year. Beautiful balance, intense but not shrill, deep but not round, full of energy and life force and wonderful with food. A great wine. Very fine, indeed.

Sounds great. And this is the just the 'entry-level' wine. Have you had the Cuvee Argile?
I have not.
I never even heard of this producer until Claude wrote about this wine.
I will look for it.

I had the 22 Schiste in late February. Wonderful, deep and racy. Love everything they make.
 
Jeff,
On another bored, I read a lot of notes from Dan Kravitz, who used to import a number of Greek wines and still drinks a few, even though he is now retired. Some of these were his suggestions.
The more I delve into Eastern European whites, the more pleased I am. Even some of the reds are of interest but the whites are really strong and pretty reasonably priced . . . mostly.
And I believe there is a strong argument for Assyrtiko being considered a noble grape with the likes of Chardonnay and Riesling. I have tried to taste as many as I can, even some of the expensive ones, and I am pretty convinced. I just need to have a few more with significant age. Good stuff.
 
I tend to agree on '24 briord at this stage, BUT...
'24 Pepière is insanely good, one of the best ever for my taste.
Knowing Gwen and Rémi, the chance that Briord won't be, one day, up to the long history of excellence of this wine, is close to zero.
So I packed my cellar with bottles and magnums of '24 Briord without a doubt. Time will tell.
 
I wonder what has happened in Muscadet, it suddenly seems quite difficult to buy satisfactory bottles. The weather, I suppose.
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:

2022 Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne Epineuil - .. Has withdrawn slightly since release but is still charming. Fine.

2022 Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne Epineuil Cuvée Juliette...a clenched fist of a wine that has turned inward almost completely. Does not wish to come out and play ...

I suppose that had to happen eventually. Had been enjoying 22s for easy pleasure, but that may not last forever.

Thankfully, they make new vintages each year.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Had been enjoying 22s for easy pleasure, but that may not last forever.

Thankfully, they make new vintages each year.

Yep, new vintages are fun.

As for 2022 in Burgundy, I have read some notes that seemed to indicate the vintage as a whole had problems, or will not last, or is not as good as (choose a year) or . . .
That has not been my (admittedly limited) experience. The reds and Chablis that I have tasted have all been quite good; several outstanding. Perhaps, I have finally found the right producers for my taste. In any event, I have a good bit of this vintage in my cellar now and am quite pleased with myself.
Even if I now have to wait a little while for them . . .
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Had been enjoying 22s for easy pleasure, but that may not last forever.

Thankfully, they make new vintages each year.

Yep, new vintages are fun.

As for 2022 in Burgundy, I have read some notes that seemed to indicate the vintage as a whole had problems, or will not last, or is not as good as (choose a year) or . . .
That has not been my (admittedly limited) experience. The reds and Chablis that I have tasted have all been quite good; several outstanding. Perhaps, I have finally found the right producers for my taste. In any event, I have a good bit of this vintage in my cellar now and am quite pleased with myself.
Even if I now have to wait a little while for them . . .
I'm not aware of any real issues with 2022. There was heat, but the vines managed to handle it and the wines retained freshness. 2023 is somewhat more diverse and to make a gross generalization, less to my stylistic preference than 2022, although there are plenty of really good wines. 2024 whites are excellent, reds are all over the place.
 
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