Kevin Roberts
Kevin Roberts
The Screamin' Jay Hawkins version -- delightfully bizarre.
Here goes the rambling incoherent version of my recent visit to Paris. I apologize for the uninteresting details and non-wine content, but my wine adventures are few and far between, so I'm telling the long version of the story.
My wife and I made a recent trip to Paris, she to do a bit of research at the Louvre (Art History dissertation) and me to eat and drink well. My wife and I got into CDG late on Wednesday morning. We set off for Paris proper straight away. We got checked into our hotel in the marais (near Place de Republique) My wife decided to take a quick nap before she needed to head over the Louvre, as the archives are only open 14:00-18:00. I decided to check out the neighborhood. I had a list of specialty cavistes to work from and there was one in the neighborhood--Julien Caviste. So I head over there straight away. Turns out it was closed (I believe for inventory, but then my french is terrible) for the better part of the week. So I head back to the Monoprix near the hotel, expecting absolutely nothing from the wine selection I found something that looked moderately decent, a Touraine-Mesland Rouge from Gaillard, for something like 6 Euros. Then back to the hotel to collect my bride and head to the Louvre. After droping her off and agreeing to collect her again just after 6, I embarked on my first death march in Paris. I decide to head to La Cremerie. So I cross the Seine and head toward my destination. I even make the exective decision to crank Gainsbourg on the ipod. Le Claqueur De Doigts was a good place to start. I was probably yelling "juke box" by the time it was over. I'm sorry, I was tired. Nevertheless I approach and pass by La cremerie before doubling back and realizing that like my first desired destination this one too, was closed, apparently for another week. I at this point set out for the nearest place to obtain alcohol. My thirst had awakened. The next place I came across was a place that didn't think looked too promising, but hell it said "caviste" on the outside, and I wasn't being picky. The place was some sort of shrine dedicated to Guigal. I swear that 40% of the wines in there were Guigal wines. Including the 3 pack of 1997 "la ______" sampler, one of each for 1000 euros, I briefly consider paying 19 euros for a glass of 2001 Chateau d'Ampuis Cotie Rotie and settle for a uninspiring glass of Chinon and head for the door. As I take my cross-country trek back towards the Louvre I grab serviceable glass of Sancerre rouge at a random bar along the way. I "cha cha cha" with a bit of exhaustion-induced stumble and more gainsbourg for the walk.
I collect my wife and hop the metro theoretically trying to grab an early an early dinner at "au tonneau des halles" Walking by it looked packed, and with my nonexistant French we decided to walk up the pedestrian street that it was on. Going into an organic grocery store, I check their small wine selection. CRB Gamay, for less than 7 euros, double score. Suitiably equipped with wine fruit and salad materials, we head pack for a picnic dinner. The Gaillard Touraine Rouge was a nice little gamay/malbec/cabernet franc blend with good acidity and some appealing berry flavors, while the CRB Gamay was an absolute delight, just what I needed before going to bed.
Day 2
Less ramble more highlights. After dropping my wife back off at the Louvre, I walk to the Caves du Pantheon. What a great little store! After seeing some familiar labels I knew I was in the right kind of store. I saw bottles from P & C Breton, (whose Franc de Pied was the subject my first trip to CSW and which really started my real curiosity about good wine in the first place) I saw more CRB, I knew I was in the right place. I saw (and ogled) a bottle of Domaine du Trevallon, which I had a specatacular bottle of 1997 last year, was sadly out of my price range at 47 euros. The proprietor spoke pretty good english and I told him the kind of wines I was looking for. I came out of there with 4 bottles I was very pretty excited about. A bottle of Herve Villemade Cheverny rouge, a bottle of Chiroubles from Coquelet (G. Descombes son?) A Fleurie from Yvan Metras, and a bottle from Terre des chardons (of course I don't realize until I get home that this is imported by Dressner.) I ask for a bar recommendation in the area and I take a 3 block walk to the Cafe de la nouvelle Marie. Fantastic wines by the glass list. I order a glass of 2008 lapierre, i assume that this is some sort of primeur/nouveau wine, but it was refreshing and lithe. Finally something good by the glass in a bar. Other things on the by the glass list: A&E Mosse Anjou Rouge, Descombes Brouilly 06, Leclerc "La Mule," Camarans "Mauvais Temps," Binner Alsace Pinot Noir. Whites including Villmade's "Les Acacias" Great bar and I wish I could have had another drink, but another deathmarch and dinner reservations at "La Verre Vole" awaited me.
That's it for installment one.
cheers,
Kevin
Edited for sloppy capitalization.
Here goes the rambling incoherent version of my recent visit to Paris. I apologize for the uninteresting details and non-wine content, but my wine adventures are few and far between, so I'm telling the long version of the story.
My wife and I made a recent trip to Paris, she to do a bit of research at the Louvre (Art History dissertation) and me to eat and drink well. My wife and I got into CDG late on Wednesday morning. We set off for Paris proper straight away. We got checked into our hotel in the marais (near Place de Republique) My wife decided to take a quick nap before she needed to head over the Louvre, as the archives are only open 14:00-18:00. I decided to check out the neighborhood. I had a list of specialty cavistes to work from and there was one in the neighborhood--Julien Caviste. So I head over there straight away. Turns out it was closed (I believe for inventory, but then my french is terrible) for the better part of the week. So I head back to the Monoprix near the hotel, expecting absolutely nothing from the wine selection I found something that looked moderately decent, a Touraine-Mesland Rouge from Gaillard, for something like 6 Euros. Then back to the hotel to collect my bride and head to the Louvre. After droping her off and agreeing to collect her again just after 6, I embarked on my first death march in Paris. I decide to head to La Cremerie. So I cross the Seine and head toward my destination. I even make the exective decision to crank Gainsbourg on the ipod. Le Claqueur De Doigts was a good place to start. I was probably yelling "juke box" by the time it was over. I'm sorry, I was tired. Nevertheless I approach and pass by La cremerie before doubling back and realizing that like my first desired destination this one too, was closed, apparently for another week. I at this point set out for the nearest place to obtain alcohol. My thirst had awakened. The next place I came across was a place that didn't think looked too promising, but hell it said "caviste" on the outside, and I wasn't being picky. The place was some sort of shrine dedicated to Guigal. I swear that 40% of the wines in there were Guigal wines. Including the 3 pack of 1997 "la ______" sampler, one of each for 1000 euros, I briefly consider paying 19 euros for a glass of 2001 Chateau d'Ampuis Cotie Rotie and settle for a uninspiring glass of Chinon and head for the door. As I take my cross-country trek back towards the Louvre I grab serviceable glass of Sancerre rouge at a random bar along the way. I "cha cha cha" with a bit of exhaustion-induced stumble and more gainsbourg for the walk.
I collect my wife and hop the metro theoretically trying to grab an early an early dinner at "au tonneau des halles" Walking by it looked packed, and with my nonexistant French we decided to walk up the pedestrian street that it was on. Going into an organic grocery store, I check their small wine selection. CRB Gamay, for less than 7 euros, double score. Suitiably equipped with wine fruit and salad materials, we head pack for a picnic dinner. The Gaillard Touraine Rouge was a nice little gamay/malbec/cabernet franc blend with good acidity and some appealing berry flavors, while the CRB Gamay was an absolute delight, just what I needed before going to bed.
Day 2
Less ramble more highlights. After dropping my wife back off at the Louvre, I walk to the Caves du Pantheon. What a great little store! After seeing some familiar labels I knew I was in the right kind of store. I saw bottles from P & C Breton, (whose Franc de Pied was the subject my first trip to CSW and which really started my real curiosity about good wine in the first place) I saw more CRB, I knew I was in the right place. I saw (and ogled) a bottle of Domaine du Trevallon, which I had a specatacular bottle of 1997 last year, was sadly out of my price range at 47 euros. The proprietor spoke pretty good english and I told him the kind of wines I was looking for. I came out of there with 4 bottles I was very pretty excited about. A bottle of Herve Villemade Cheverny rouge, a bottle of Chiroubles from Coquelet (G. Descombes son?) A Fleurie from Yvan Metras, and a bottle from Terre des chardons (of course I don't realize until I get home that this is imported by Dressner.) I ask for a bar recommendation in the area and I take a 3 block walk to the Cafe de la nouvelle Marie. Fantastic wines by the glass list. I order a glass of 2008 lapierre, i assume that this is some sort of primeur/nouveau wine, but it was refreshing and lithe. Finally something good by the glass in a bar. Other things on the by the glass list: A&E Mosse Anjou Rouge, Descombes Brouilly 06, Leclerc "La Mule," Camarans "Mauvais Temps," Binner Alsace Pinot Noir. Whites including Villmade's "Les Acacias" Great bar and I wish I could have had another drink, but another deathmarch and dinner reservations at "La Verre Vole" awaited me.
That's it for installment one.
cheers,
Kevin
Edited for sloppy capitalization.