1998 Domaine du Vieux Tlgraphe Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
Begins with a huge blast of black pepper on the nose. That receeds somewhat and allows other elements to emerge, such as red Grenache fruit, burnt fireplace embers, peat, iodine (I'm sticking with the Lagavulin comparison from my TN from last March) and significant barnyard. The barnyard is not off-putting to me, but it is a significant part of the palate profile, and when the black pepper smooths out, one is left with equal parts red Grenache fruit and barnyard. The tannins are smooth and the mouthfeel is smooth, and while the wine has gained the smoothness of time, I don't think it has grown especially complex. A good wine, a pleasurable wine (assuming that one is not averse to barnyard), but not a wine that is especially cerebral, especially when the initial burst of pepper, peat and iodine smooth out and the palate shows red fruit and barnyard but little additional depth. UPDATE: A glass saved overnight showed much cleaner on the nose 24 hours later, with the barnyard completely gone. On the palate, however, that barnyard comes across as pigeon coop. The palate is otherwise smooth and, dare I say it, not that expressive. It's soft, shows some elegance, but seems to be missing garrigue, lavender, complexity and energy.
1999 Le Vieux Donjon Chteauneuf-du-Pape
I was expecting a huge blast of funk and barnyard, which I recall from this wine's youth, but did not get that. Instead, a smooth wine, showing melted fudge and earth, more "brown" than Grenache "red" at this point in its life, with some sweet blackberry at the core and, with air, animal fur. The tannins have been smoothed out, the wine condensed and heading into maturity, although it's not coming across as old and still has plenty of energy. In fact, this wine shows more energy and character than a bottle tasted 11/07.
1998 Le Vieux Donjon Chteauneuf-du-Pape
I was expecting more from a '98 Donjon that I've stored well since release. Initially somewhat coy, then opening up to smoked meat and beef jerky notes with light garrigue, but overall, rather understated and never really seemed to be expressive. The tannins are soft yet still there, suggesting less than complete integration; perhaps this wine just needs a bit more time. At the five hour mark, the wine shows some lavender and a still a reluctant, reticent demeanor. Quite surprising how shy this wine seems at 10 years. At one point, we even discussed whether this wine was over the hill (in its lack of expressiveness and generally listless, energy-less palate), or not yet ready.
2000 Domaine Roger Perrin Chteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Vieilles Vignes
Well, here is yet another repeat experience with this wine to reaffirm that this producer is not for me. Figs, dates and other sweet brown fruits, along with mocha, on a thin palate that seems to put sweetness first. The tannins are thin and the structure is flimsy compared to the palate sweetness, which results in an overly sweet, boring wine. A few years ago, this wine was all modern style "big fruit" and oak, but as this wine has aged it has lost any appealing fruit and is left with a sweet yet thin palate. Yuck. All my 98's from this producer were corked, and the '00 is not good; the '05 offered recently is an easy pass.
1998 Clos du Mont Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
Decanted at home first, the first taste showed more figs and dates than red Grenache fruit. This bottle was somewhat disappointing. A bottle that MC brought to dinner in Tribeca last February showed more underlying power and oomph. Tonight's bottle was not bad, just simple and unexciting.
1999 Domaine du Pga Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve
I was all set to 'diss this wine as too bretty, but you know, I liked it. This is far from a clean wine, but the mix of brett and black fruit and pepper is interesting. This wine suggests cow shit underneath a raspberry bush. Soft, silky mouthfeel; one might think this wine is at peak, until some still-grainy tannins appear on the back end, suggesting that this still has time. While I prefer cleaner, prettier Chateauneuf, and Pegau from other vintages, this was ok. Not great, but ok.
2001 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas
In a word, disappointing. Opens up to a meaty, heavy, cumbersome palate of plump fruit, coffee, and volatile acidity, and never really settles down, even after 24 hours. It's not just that it's spoofolated, it's also clumsy and brutish. Seems like the fruit could have produced a good wine, in the right hands, but this wine is a mess.
2000 Domaine de la Charbonnire Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Mourre des Perdrix
Dark black cherries on the nose, no alcohol, just fruit, which is good. The palate is toward the dark side, with fig paste, dates, dry game and black tea. Tannins are completely smooth. Good, cohesive palate that seems to be in its prime. My note from 13 months ago is still pretty on-point today, with the wine now showing more richness and detail. Very enjoyable traditional Chateauneuf that really earns respect.
2000 Chteau de Beaucastel Ctes du Rhne Coudoulet de Beaucastel
This wine is at a mid-point. It is clearly past the lushness of its youth, but is neither resolved in texture nor mature in tertiary qualities and still has many years to go. One might think that the dry mouthfeel and smooth tannin suggest a wine that's old, but I submit that it's just getting started, that it is just the base on which the wine will ride years longer and develop more nuance and complexity. There is an inner core of sweet red fruit that emerges at about three hours of air. On the second night, no degradation or oxidation at all, with the palate showing more fig paste and dates than red fruit. Comparing this to the 2000 Beaucastel, they are quite different. The 2000 Beau is more black and purple fruited, while this Coudoulet is more red then brown. The 2000 Beau is primary, chunky still. This Coudoulet is maturing, but is far from mature. This little Coudoulet was certainly a good wine in its own right.
2005 Clos du Mont Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Popped one bottle to decide whether to buy more. I've long since drank my 98-01 Mont Olivets, except a few magnums left, as this producer's CdP do not impress me with ageability (save for the Cuvee Papet which can age for a long time). This is an obviously young wine, but seems to display decent balance. The palate shows red cherry fruit, liquorice and some spice, and as the wine airs it deepens in flavor and emits beets and pomegranate. The tannins are, at first, coarse and chewy young tannins, but then they smooth out and the structure gets almost entirely eclipsed by the fruit on the palate. Good, but I'm not getting a sense of depth or reserve here that would suggest a long ager. My suspicion at this early stage is that, like in prior vintages, it's a mid-term ager.
2005 Domaine Charvin Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Bottle number 1087, opened to replace bottle number 1281 which was corked. This is more like it! Beautiful nose right after uncorking. This wine is gorgeous. Wild strawberry on the nose, light garrigue and with more air, peanut shells. The palate is oh-so-pretty with red fruits, raspberry tea, a lovely, silky, soft mouthfeel yet a feeling of a solid presence in the mouth, soft tannins that gently frame but allow the fruit to shine. There is a gentleness here, a soft quality, that makes this feminine and seductive. My one concern is that there seems to be somewhat of a deficiency in depth. However, this is a young wine, and if a lesser concentrated vintage like '99 is to guide us, this '05 should gain depth and concentration with time in the cellar. B+/A- today only because the wine is so upfront and there is the concern over depth, but if the wine gains that depth, it will be in solid A territory.
2005 Domaine Charvin Ctes du Rhne (Le Poutet)
This wine was like a chameleon. On day one, it showed plenty of forward fruit and structure. It resembled a Chateauneuf in many ways, but lacked the depth of a good CdP. I had to run out and only drank one glass, saving most of the bottle for the second night. On the second night, the wine began very angular, not friendly at all. Perhaps it was too cold. It took about four hours to open up and soften, and when it did it was much softer and better, but still quite primary. It also seemed to be all over the place, with the tannins peeking out a bit too much, the acidity apart from the fruit. Give this one another year to come together. Sort of irritable right now.
2001 Patrick Lesec Chteauneuf-du-Pape Les Galets Blonds
This has a very polished, sleek exterior, yet underlying that there is some wild raspberry and complexities like grilled meat and some garrigue. The tannins seem soft. I get the overall impression that this is a manupulated wine rather than an entirely honest one. Not a bad wine, but not something that I would seek out.
2000 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas
Interesting that of the six notes on Cellar Tracker about this wine, three mention off bottles and two of those specifically discuss a fizzy palate. Today, I came across my first TN on this wine, from 2003, in which apparently I also detected some fizz on the palate. Five years later, however, the flaw is not fizz but the very high levels of Brett which just killed the palate here. Underlying the brett was a palate that I was hoping might emerge, one that seemed promising, but the brett was just too dominant. A pity, as this wine might have been enjoyable otherwise.
2001 Domaine les Pallires Gigondas
As a young wine, this was plump. It's not quite as plump at seven years past the vintage, but it does offer a very sweet palate. In looking over my notes, I see that I had the '04 Pallieres some eight months ago, and I noted how sweet that '04 was. Seems like a house style. The '01 is good, offering a flavorful palate, but I'm just not that moved, and I question whether this has improved with age or just gotten older and smoother but not necessarily better. The palate does get a bit dry on the back end, which causes me to wonder whether this should go longer in the cellar.
2000 ric Texier Chteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes
This wine begins with a huge burst of Islay scotch-like complexities - peat, iodine and smoke, turning to game and brasaola (air dried beef). After a few hours of air, the fruit peeks out - wild raspberry. The brett here is huge, but the barnyard portion is in check against the more complex, very satisfying iodine/smoke/peat. The structure of this wine has softened. The brett fireworks are really center stage here and somewhat stupefying. On the second night (after putting the second half of the bottle in a .375, corked and thrown in the fridge), the brett is really objectionable. This wine raises questions like: is this particular bottle an anomaly, in terms of the brett? If the brett were toned down, what would this wine be like? The softened structure suggested that this wine, at 8 years, is at peak; but did the brett throw off that calibration? Would a less bretty wine have shown more structure and/or more fruit, which might then have suggested cellaring longer? I may never know, as this was my last bottle.
2001 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
This was the "regular" tan label, as contrasted to the "black label" tasting note below. I was expecting a big, dense, more structured and backward wine than the black label wine, but, like the black wine label wine, I find a very smooth wine, without the density and layers and "gobs" of fruit that I expected. The black label seemed to show more nuance, which makes sense since that wine is more evolved. Both the tan and black label Marcoux show a gentle, soft tannin. This wine is far from primary, indeed it is very smooth in the mouth and the structure is softer and more evolved than expected, yet this wine overall is not complex and is not showing the secondary qualities that one might expect, given the softness of the palate. The Marcoux blackberry fruit is there, along with some animal fur, and it shows just slightly baked fruits, but not in an overdone, too hot way that the '98 Marcoux demonstrates, more like Grandma's fruit compote. Good purity to the palate. While smooth and not rugged, with soft tannin, the wine is not complex. Sort of like in a holding period, at a midpoint, has lost the bulk and forwardness of youth, but has not yet developed the complexity and detail of a more mature wine, although the mouthfeel and softer structure might suggest that it should have.
2001 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
This was the "black label" Marcoux, not the tan label, the difference being that the grapes for this wine come from a plot of land not owned by the Armeniers but, as I understand it, farmed by them and the wine from those grapes is also made by them but labeled separately. Lovely nose that begins rather assertive and heady with tree bark and peach tea, but then calms down with air and emits that unmistakable almond cookie dough/roasted peanuts of Chateauneuf. The palate is complex and mature, featuring a core of soft raspberry fruit and "red zinger" tea surrounded by nuances of pipe bowl, salted meat, light garrigue and gentle tannin. Though the wine is heading toward resolution and the tannins seem rather soft and broken down, there is a core of inner sweetness to this wine that distinguishes itself from this week's 2001 Brunel Les Caillloux that is simply aging without really acquiring any charm. At the same time that this wine shows that inner sweetness and charm, as the wine airs, the finish grows more dry, suggesting to me that this wine is at peak. This is not a profound wine, and this is likely a wine that is at or near maturity, but it is a very enjoyable wine.
2000 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Tan label; I am not aware of a "black label" from this vintage, as in 2001. This wine is austere to start. The nose is reticent at first, but then gives way to bullion cube, spiced beef, iodine notes and a suggestion of autumn leaves (without meaning to suggest it's dried out). On the palate, more towards the brown-to-red side of the fruit spectrum, showing its age in terms of the evolution of fruit, yet not an old wine by any means, with additional flavors of dried beef, dates and complicated by dry onion powder. Tannins are soft and smooth - is this wine at peak? The finish has really gained breadth since the last time a year ago, showing citrus acidity, dates and lots of nuance and detail. Seems to be at peak. The autumnal and brown notes suggest that this wine is drying, but there seems to be good richness of fruit at its core. Drink now to a few more years, but probably will not make old bones.
2001 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
So much better than a 2000 Les Cailloux two nights ago (see below), which was horrible. This one needed about two hours of air to smooth out, at which point it showed a direct palate of raspberry, wild strawberry, puree of figs, air dried beef and raw pork sausage. While the palate delivered these flavors, the mouthfeel was a bit dry and lacking in richness. This wine fails in comparison to other '01s like the Charvin or the Beaucastel (yes, apples v. oranges) or the Pegau or multiple other examples, because this Les Cailloux is neither as complex nor as rich nor as ageworthy as better wines from this vintage. It's a good CdP, but it's far from special. EDIT: on the second night, this is oxidized, pruney and raisiny. Les Cailloux are not for aging.
2000 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Seriously, what is up with this wine? At first, it is dry in the mouth and underfruited and just plain harsh. It's completely empty in the middle and comes across as watery -- leaves and earth diluted in water, with soy sauce and raisins. While a suggestion of autumn leaves is totally normal in Chateauneuf -- although is it maybe a bit early at only eight years? - - this wine is like the soggy underside of a pile of dry leaves. Finally, at maybe four hours of air, does some sweetness emerge and this begins to be even somewhat reluctantly charming. This is a poor showing for what was once a good CdP to have completely turned so ugly in only eight years. D
2005 Domaine Bernard Gripa St. Joseph Cuve Le Berceau
This has some pretty interesting raw materials, but is way too young and primary to drink right now. The tannins are thick and velvety at first, then settle down, allowing the palate to come to the fore, but that palate is rather dumb right now. Blue/purple fruits, boysenberry, cola, primary Syrah qualities, the fruit is showing but that's about it, if you had told me that this was Aussie Shiraz, I would have told you that it's very Rhone-like. Try again in 2-3 years, possibly more. EDIT: I followed this wine over three nights. It only got better. By the third night, there was no oxidation nor degredation, only a better sense of purity. A very sensual mouthfeel after 3 days of air, and still tannic. Wow. Wish I could get more of this.
2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Crozes-Hermitage Silene
Took delivery of a six pack of this in the summer of '07 and opened a bottle or two with Randy then. I didn't take a formal tasting note, but I recall that this wine was then quite primary and in need of time; duh. A year and a half in bottle have softened this wine somewhat, but it still needs time to soften further. Right now it is still primary, angular and somewhat hard-edged. It has that Northern Rhone Syrah profile that I love - the blue fruit, the smoke, the aromatics - but its components need to come together into a more cohesive wine that speaks in one voice. That said, it will never become a truly great wine, as it lacks the depth and concentration, but 3-5 years should make it quite satisfying for a N. Rhone Syrah fix. UPDATE: After being open overnight, the wine loses some of its hard edges, but doesn't really gain anything in terms of clarity or focus. Doesn't impress me as being anything exceptional.
1999 E. Guigal Cte-Rtie Brune et Blonde
This wine is inviting at first, with its cool blue fruits, maple ham, whisps of smoke, campfire, grilled meats, black olive and lavender, but then closes up tight such that only a few of all those tastes get through at any one sip. The tannins have been smoothed out, but are still quite hardy, and the grapefruit/citrus acidity is strong. While this is not the fruitbomb it was on release, it is not yet fully developed in secondary qualities and seems to be delivering only modestly. Far from ready, this wine needs another few years to soften, at which point it could be quite good.
Begins with a huge blast of black pepper on the nose. That receeds somewhat and allows other elements to emerge, such as red Grenache fruit, burnt fireplace embers, peat, iodine (I'm sticking with the Lagavulin comparison from my TN from last March) and significant barnyard. The barnyard is not off-putting to me, but it is a significant part of the palate profile, and when the black pepper smooths out, one is left with equal parts red Grenache fruit and barnyard. The tannins are smooth and the mouthfeel is smooth, and while the wine has gained the smoothness of time, I don't think it has grown especially complex. A good wine, a pleasurable wine (assuming that one is not averse to barnyard), but not a wine that is especially cerebral, especially when the initial burst of pepper, peat and iodine smooth out and the palate shows red fruit and barnyard but little additional depth. UPDATE: A glass saved overnight showed much cleaner on the nose 24 hours later, with the barnyard completely gone. On the palate, however, that barnyard comes across as pigeon coop. The palate is otherwise smooth and, dare I say it, not that expressive. It's soft, shows some elegance, but seems to be missing garrigue, lavender, complexity and energy.
1999 Le Vieux Donjon Chteauneuf-du-Pape
I was expecting a huge blast of funk and barnyard, which I recall from this wine's youth, but did not get that. Instead, a smooth wine, showing melted fudge and earth, more "brown" than Grenache "red" at this point in its life, with some sweet blackberry at the core and, with air, animal fur. The tannins have been smoothed out, the wine condensed and heading into maturity, although it's not coming across as old and still has plenty of energy. In fact, this wine shows more energy and character than a bottle tasted 11/07.
1998 Le Vieux Donjon Chteauneuf-du-Pape
I was expecting more from a '98 Donjon that I've stored well since release. Initially somewhat coy, then opening up to smoked meat and beef jerky notes with light garrigue, but overall, rather understated and never really seemed to be expressive. The tannins are soft yet still there, suggesting less than complete integration; perhaps this wine just needs a bit more time. At the five hour mark, the wine shows some lavender and a still a reluctant, reticent demeanor. Quite surprising how shy this wine seems at 10 years. At one point, we even discussed whether this wine was over the hill (in its lack of expressiveness and generally listless, energy-less palate), or not yet ready.
2000 Domaine Roger Perrin Chteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Vieilles Vignes
Well, here is yet another repeat experience with this wine to reaffirm that this producer is not for me. Figs, dates and other sweet brown fruits, along with mocha, on a thin palate that seems to put sweetness first. The tannins are thin and the structure is flimsy compared to the palate sweetness, which results in an overly sweet, boring wine. A few years ago, this wine was all modern style "big fruit" and oak, but as this wine has aged it has lost any appealing fruit and is left with a sweet yet thin palate. Yuck. All my 98's from this producer were corked, and the '00 is not good; the '05 offered recently is an easy pass.
1998 Clos du Mont Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuve du Papet
Decanted at home first, the first taste showed more figs and dates than red Grenache fruit. This bottle was somewhat disappointing. A bottle that MC brought to dinner in Tribeca last February showed more underlying power and oomph. Tonight's bottle was not bad, just simple and unexciting.
1999 Domaine du Pga Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve
I was all set to 'diss this wine as too bretty, but you know, I liked it. This is far from a clean wine, but the mix of brett and black fruit and pepper is interesting. This wine suggests cow shit underneath a raspberry bush. Soft, silky mouthfeel; one might think this wine is at peak, until some still-grainy tannins appear on the back end, suggesting that this still has time. While I prefer cleaner, prettier Chateauneuf, and Pegau from other vintages, this was ok. Not great, but ok.
2001 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas
In a word, disappointing. Opens up to a meaty, heavy, cumbersome palate of plump fruit, coffee, and volatile acidity, and never really settles down, even after 24 hours. It's not just that it's spoofolated, it's also clumsy and brutish. Seems like the fruit could have produced a good wine, in the right hands, but this wine is a mess.
2000 Domaine de la Charbonnire Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Mourre des Perdrix
Dark black cherries on the nose, no alcohol, just fruit, which is good. The palate is toward the dark side, with fig paste, dates, dry game and black tea. Tannins are completely smooth. Good, cohesive palate that seems to be in its prime. My note from 13 months ago is still pretty on-point today, with the wine now showing more richness and detail. Very enjoyable traditional Chateauneuf that really earns respect.
2000 Chteau de Beaucastel Ctes du Rhne Coudoulet de Beaucastel
This wine is at a mid-point. It is clearly past the lushness of its youth, but is neither resolved in texture nor mature in tertiary qualities and still has many years to go. One might think that the dry mouthfeel and smooth tannin suggest a wine that's old, but I submit that it's just getting started, that it is just the base on which the wine will ride years longer and develop more nuance and complexity. There is an inner core of sweet red fruit that emerges at about three hours of air. On the second night, no degradation or oxidation at all, with the palate showing more fig paste and dates than red fruit. Comparing this to the 2000 Beaucastel, they are quite different. The 2000 Beau is more black and purple fruited, while this Coudoulet is more red then brown. The 2000 Beau is primary, chunky still. This Coudoulet is maturing, but is far from mature. This little Coudoulet was certainly a good wine in its own right.
2005 Clos du Mont Olivet Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Popped one bottle to decide whether to buy more. I've long since drank my 98-01 Mont Olivets, except a few magnums left, as this producer's CdP do not impress me with ageability (save for the Cuvee Papet which can age for a long time). This is an obviously young wine, but seems to display decent balance. The palate shows red cherry fruit, liquorice and some spice, and as the wine airs it deepens in flavor and emits beets and pomegranate. The tannins are, at first, coarse and chewy young tannins, but then they smooth out and the structure gets almost entirely eclipsed by the fruit on the palate. Good, but I'm not getting a sense of depth or reserve here that would suggest a long ager. My suspicion at this early stage is that, like in prior vintages, it's a mid-term ager.
2005 Domaine Charvin Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Bottle number 1087, opened to replace bottle number 1281 which was corked. This is more like it! Beautiful nose right after uncorking. This wine is gorgeous. Wild strawberry on the nose, light garrigue and with more air, peanut shells. The palate is oh-so-pretty with red fruits, raspberry tea, a lovely, silky, soft mouthfeel yet a feeling of a solid presence in the mouth, soft tannins that gently frame but allow the fruit to shine. There is a gentleness here, a soft quality, that makes this feminine and seductive. My one concern is that there seems to be somewhat of a deficiency in depth. However, this is a young wine, and if a lesser concentrated vintage like '99 is to guide us, this '05 should gain depth and concentration with time in the cellar. B+/A- today only because the wine is so upfront and there is the concern over depth, but if the wine gains that depth, it will be in solid A territory.
2005 Domaine Charvin Ctes du Rhne (Le Poutet)
This wine was like a chameleon. On day one, it showed plenty of forward fruit and structure. It resembled a Chateauneuf in many ways, but lacked the depth of a good CdP. I had to run out and only drank one glass, saving most of the bottle for the second night. On the second night, the wine began very angular, not friendly at all. Perhaps it was too cold. It took about four hours to open up and soften, and when it did it was much softer and better, but still quite primary. It also seemed to be all over the place, with the tannins peeking out a bit too much, the acidity apart from the fruit. Give this one another year to come together. Sort of irritable right now.
2001 Patrick Lesec Chteauneuf-du-Pape Les Galets Blonds
This has a very polished, sleek exterior, yet underlying that there is some wild raspberry and complexities like grilled meat and some garrigue. The tannins seem soft. I get the overall impression that this is a manupulated wine rather than an entirely honest one. Not a bad wine, but not something that I would seek out.
2000 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas
Interesting that of the six notes on Cellar Tracker about this wine, three mention off bottles and two of those specifically discuss a fizzy palate. Today, I came across my first TN on this wine, from 2003, in which apparently I also detected some fizz on the palate. Five years later, however, the flaw is not fizz but the very high levels of Brett which just killed the palate here. Underlying the brett was a palate that I was hoping might emerge, one that seemed promising, but the brett was just too dominant. A pity, as this wine might have been enjoyable otherwise.
2001 Domaine les Pallires Gigondas
As a young wine, this was plump. It's not quite as plump at seven years past the vintage, but it does offer a very sweet palate. In looking over my notes, I see that I had the '04 Pallieres some eight months ago, and I noted how sweet that '04 was. Seems like a house style. The '01 is good, offering a flavorful palate, but I'm just not that moved, and I question whether this has improved with age or just gotten older and smoother but not necessarily better. The palate does get a bit dry on the back end, which causes me to wonder whether this should go longer in the cellar.
2000 ric Texier Chteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes
This wine begins with a huge burst of Islay scotch-like complexities - peat, iodine and smoke, turning to game and brasaola (air dried beef). After a few hours of air, the fruit peeks out - wild raspberry. The brett here is huge, but the barnyard portion is in check against the more complex, very satisfying iodine/smoke/peat. The structure of this wine has softened. The brett fireworks are really center stage here and somewhat stupefying. On the second night (after putting the second half of the bottle in a .375, corked and thrown in the fridge), the brett is really objectionable. This wine raises questions like: is this particular bottle an anomaly, in terms of the brett? If the brett were toned down, what would this wine be like? The softened structure suggested that this wine, at 8 years, is at peak; but did the brett throw off that calibration? Would a less bretty wine have shown more structure and/or more fruit, which might then have suggested cellaring longer? I may never know, as this was my last bottle.
2001 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
This was the "regular" tan label, as contrasted to the "black label" tasting note below. I was expecting a big, dense, more structured and backward wine than the black label wine, but, like the black wine label wine, I find a very smooth wine, without the density and layers and "gobs" of fruit that I expected. The black label seemed to show more nuance, which makes sense since that wine is more evolved. Both the tan and black label Marcoux show a gentle, soft tannin. This wine is far from primary, indeed it is very smooth in the mouth and the structure is softer and more evolved than expected, yet this wine overall is not complex and is not showing the secondary qualities that one might expect, given the softness of the palate. The Marcoux blackberry fruit is there, along with some animal fur, and it shows just slightly baked fruits, but not in an overdone, too hot way that the '98 Marcoux demonstrates, more like Grandma's fruit compote. Good purity to the palate. While smooth and not rugged, with soft tannin, the wine is not complex. Sort of like in a holding period, at a midpoint, has lost the bulk and forwardness of youth, but has not yet developed the complexity and detail of a more mature wine, although the mouthfeel and softer structure might suggest that it should have.
2001 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
This was the "black label" Marcoux, not the tan label, the difference being that the grapes for this wine come from a plot of land not owned by the Armeniers but, as I understand it, farmed by them and the wine from those grapes is also made by them but labeled separately. Lovely nose that begins rather assertive and heady with tree bark and peach tea, but then calms down with air and emits that unmistakable almond cookie dough/roasted peanuts of Chateauneuf. The palate is complex and mature, featuring a core of soft raspberry fruit and "red zinger" tea surrounded by nuances of pipe bowl, salted meat, light garrigue and gentle tannin. Though the wine is heading toward resolution and the tannins seem rather soft and broken down, there is a core of inner sweetness to this wine that distinguishes itself from this week's 2001 Brunel Les Caillloux that is simply aging without really acquiring any charm. At the same time that this wine shows that inner sweetness and charm, as the wine airs, the finish grows more dry, suggesting to me that this wine is at peak. This is not a profound wine, and this is likely a wine that is at or near maturity, but it is a very enjoyable wine.
2000 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Tan label; I am not aware of a "black label" from this vintage, as in 2001. This wine is austere to start. The nose is reticent at first, but then gives way to bullion cube, spiced beef, iodine notes and a suggestion of autumn leaves (without meaning to suggest it's dried out). On the palate, more towards the brown-to-red side of the fruit spectrum, showing its age in terms of the evolution of fruit, yet not an old wine by any means, with additional flavors of dried beef, dates and complicated by dry onion powder. Tannins are soft and smooth - is this wine at peak? The finish has really gained breadth since the last time a year ago, showing citrus acidity, dates and lots of nuance and detail. Seems to be at peak. The autumnal and brown notes suggest that this wine is drying, but there seems to be good richness of fruit at its core. Drink now to a few more years, but probably will not make old bones.
2001 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
So much better than a 2000 Les Cailloux two nights ago (see below), which was horrible. This one needed about two hours of air to smooth out, at which point it showed a direct palate of raspberry, wild strawberry, puree of figs, air dried beef and raw pork sausage. While the palate delivered these flavors, the mouthfeel was a bit dry and lacking in richness. This wine fails in comparison to other '01s like the Charvin or the Beaucastel (yes, apples v. oranges) or the Pegau or multiple other examples, because this Les Cailloux is neither as complex nor as rich nor as ageworthy as better wines from this vintage. It's a good CdP, but it's far from special. EDIT: on the second night, this is oxidized, pruney and raisiny. Les Cailloux are not for aging.
2000 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Seriously, what is up with this wine? At first, it is dry in the mouth and underfruited and just plain harsh. It's completely empty in the middle and comes across as watery -- leaves and earth diluted in water, with soy sauce and raisins. While a suggestion of autumn leaves is totally normal in Chateauneuf -- although is it maybe a bit early at only eight years? - - this wine is like the soggy underside of a pile of dry leaves. Finally, at maybe four hours of air, does some sweetness emerge and this begins to be even somewhat reluctantly charming. This is a poor showing for what was once a good CdP to have completely turned so ugly in only eight years. D
2005 Domaine Bernard Gripa St. Joseph Cuve Le Berceau
This has some pretty interesting raw materials, but is way too young and primary to drink right now. The tannins are thick and velvety at first, then settle down, allowing the palate to come to the fore, but that palate is rather dumb right now. Blue/purple fruits, boysenberry, cola, primary Syrah qualities, the fruit is showing but that's about it, if you had told me that this was Aussie Shiraz, I would have told you that it's very Rhone-like. Try again in 2-3 years, possibly more. EDIT: I followed this wine over three nights. It only got better. By the third night, there was no oxidation nor degredation, only a better sense of purity. A very sensual mouthfeel after 3 days of air, and still tannic. Wow. Wish I could get more of this.
2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Crozes-Hermitage Silene
Took delivery of a six pack of this in the summer of '07 and opened a bottle or two with Randy then. I didn't take a formal tasting note, but I recall that this wine was then quite primary and in need of time; duh. A year and a half in bottle have softened this wine somewhat, but it still needs time to soften further. Right now it is still primary, angular and somewhat hard-edged. It has that Northern Rhone Syrah profile that I love - the blue fruit, the smoke, the aromatics - but its components need to come together into a more cohesive wine that speaks in one voice. That said, it will never become a truly great wine, as it lacks the depth and concentration, but 3-5 years should make it quite satisfying for a N. Rhone Syrah fix. UPDATE: After being open overnight, the wine loses some of its hard edges, but doesn't really gain anything in terms of clarity or focus. Doesn't impress me as being anything exceptional.
1999 E. Guigal Cte-Rtie Brune et Blonde
This wine is inviting at first, with its cool blue fruits, maple ham, whisps of smoke, campfire, grilled meats, black olive and lavender, but then closes up tight such that only a few of all those tastes get through at any one sip. The tannins have been smoothed out, but are still quite hardy, and the grapefruit/citrus acidity is strong. While this is not the fruitbomb it was on release, it is not yet fully developed in secondary qualities and seems to be delivering only modestly. Far from ready, this wine needs another few years to soften, at which point it could be quite good.