Close to 80 wine lovers gathered today at Peter Pratts Inn in beautiful and historic Yorktown, NY, approximately forty-five minutes north of Manhattan, for a day filled with wine, steak and fun. This was my first time attending this event, which I believe is in its fourth go 'round
I was sitting at table with a Bordeaux theme, but I did manage to get some sips from other tables. Given all the hubbub around me and the fact that I was taking a lot of pictures, my notes are fairly cursory.
Cheers.
1989 Huet- Vouvray Sec, Le Haut-Lieu
I kind gift pour from Jay miller. Just as good as the last bottle I tried in October. Vivid yet rich with chalky Vouvray minerality, quince, green almond and yellow apples. No shell notes like I got last time, though there is a waxy quality to it. Drinking well, though no hurry here. Perhaps my favorite Sec. A-.
1983 Palmer- Margaux
Aromoatically, its rather nice. Theres perfumed cherry, dank earth with a touch of eucalyptus and brown spices. However, on the palate its a bit withdrawn and not really showing as it usually does. Up front theres some nice warmth by way of earthy and spicy notes, but theres no fruit in the middle or end. Normally this wine has plenty of fruit. The finish shows some toughness and too much eucalyptus for my taste. B+/B.
1982 Loville-Poyferr- St. Julien (Mystery wine)
Earthy, slightly musty nose with blackish fruit. Harmonious and integrated with fairly resolved tannins. Nice interplay between the earthy notes and desiccated fruit. It picks up a touch of tobacco on the finish. Pleasant, but no real oomph. I had two guesses. One was a 70 St. Julien and if not that, I guessed maybe a poorly stored 80s St. Julien, or, more precisely, an 81 St. Julien. Given the year and Producer and past experiences with the bottle, I dont believe it was a pristine bottle. I dont think it so severe heat, but low and slow exposure. B+.
1982 Cos DEstournal- St. Estephe
A really nice showing for this wine. Too often Ive been disappointed by how a number of the 80s Cos have aged as it seems that they have shed their fruit, become nothing much more than earthy and spicy and tediously boring. Not this one. Yes, theres earthiness and spice, but theres also sweet black fruit to balance it out and a dash of cocoa. Solid structure with nice vibrancy. A/A-.
1986 Cos DEstournal- St. Estephe
My last bottle and one of my least favorite showings. This is one of Cos wines/vintages that, while highly praised by the critics, I find has not aged well. In the late 90s there was terrific fruit in this wine, but also formidable structure that seemed to suggest that the wine really needed to be left alone for a good while longer. Ive had the wine probably eight times in the last eight years and its gone nowhere. The fruit has faded and what I usually get is just a boring, earthy wine. Slight difference in this showing as it showed a completely atypical eucalyptus character that completely dominated the wine. Not a fan. B-/C+.
1989 Tertre Roteboeuf- St. milion
From a small pour from the other Bordeaux table that was doing all 89s. Shows some red fruit and stewed tomatoes on the nose. Shrill on the palate and quite shallow. Brown earth and brown spices with desiccated cherry fruit and that odd tomato note. Seems like poor storage. C+ .
1989 LEvangile- Pomerol
Another gift from the next table. Tight aromatically. Elegant, lean and precise with cherry, earth and root spices. Earth dominates and a bit more stuffing would certainly do it some good. Its a little too linear for my tastes. B+/B.
1964 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva, Via Real (from 375 ml)
A generous pour from Jay Miller who brought a half bottle of this with a great fill. This wine was beautiful. Silky, elegant and perfectly mature. Cherries, earth and worn wood and spices dance on the tongue. Wish I had more. Oh, wait. I just got halves and 750s of this. Yippee! A-.
2000 Beaucastel- Chteaneuf-du-Pape, Hommage a Jacques Perrin
Brad Coelho was generous in giving me a sip of this from his glass. Honestly, I wanted to give him a body blow and run off with his glass. Just an astounding mouthful. Intense, rich yet somehow it manages to stay light on its feet. Theres decadent blackberry/black raspberry, lots of black licorice and a hint of meat in a forward and very friendly package. While only a mouthful, it was my wine of the night. A+.
1998 Beaucastel- Chteaneuf-du-Pape
Many thanks to the Rhone table for this pour. This remains one of my all time favorite Beaucastels. Theres just a lot to love here. Its rich, but wonderfully proportioned and full of black fruit, meat, licorice and cocoa. Its young, but just starting to emerge from its shell. Give it air if you cant keep your hands off as there are some big tannins, but theres plenty of fruit to tame them. Solid A to A+/A.
1986 Margaux- Margaux
Wait, can I coin a phrase? Yum-o! Beautiful! Intensely aromatic and like the smell of crushed cherries wafting through a cedar forest on the NW coast after a rain. While the 86 tannins are present, theres a delicate lightness to this wine that is just sublime while at the same time it shows substance. Like flavors with a hit of green tobacco on the way out. Lovely. A.
1990 LEvangile- Pomerol
I consider myself very lucky to have had this gem of a wine twice in the last couple of months. This is simply stunning stuff. Theres a perfectly integrated WIP (Weapon of Intense Pleasure) explosion out of the glass and in the mouth thats full of rich n sweet black fruit, cocoa, earth and herb. Multi-layered, dense and perfectly balanced, if young. Youll want to wring every last drop out of the bottle. A+/A.
1990 Montrose- St. Estephe
A bit of a polarizing bottle. Some folks at my table had this as their favorite wine of the night. I found it a completely atypical and not so good showing. Normally, this wine shows a dry port like character thats just dense and maybe a little too much in character. I actually usually prefer the 89 to it, but this wine is never really a slouch. Yet I found this bottle to show a lot of greenness, most especially from the wood tannins. I found precious little fruit here and even very little Brett, which this wine normally exhibits plenty off. There are still some things to like here, but this is unlike any showing Ive had of this wine. Doesnt seem like bad storage. Perhaps barrel variation? B+/B.
1989 Latour- Pauillac
Another donation from the other Bordeaux table. Always a relatively elegant vintage for Latour, I think this wine has filled in a little with age. Theres a rush of suave red fruit, cedar, tobacco and earth that gently tickles the tastebuds and tries, perhaps not too successfully given the flavor profile, to trick you into believing its a Burgundy given its relative lightness. I used to consider this a dog for the vintage. No longer. Low A-.
2000 La Fleur de Board- Lalande de Pomerol (mystery wine)
Young and tight with green wood tannins and barrel char. Theres some upfront fruit thats quite polished, but overall the wine is coarse and hollow. I guess a new fangled right bank wine that Rolland had his hand in. Not what I look for in Bordeaux. B-/C+.
1998 Haut Brion- Pessac-Lognan
Ahhh, this is more like it. Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion always feel like home to me. Theres just something so comforting in the black earthy goodness that these wines blanket you in. Theres very pleasing black fruit here, but its not too lush and the wine is just starting to take on more mature tobacco notes. Dont mind me if I curl up with this bottle in the other room. A/A-.
1988 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec, Le Haut-Lieu
Another sip sent over by Jay Miller. I had recently found a stash of Huet that I got some of my Huet loving friends in on and this was one of those bottles. As I have one and have never tried the wine before, I was eager to see how it is. Aromatically, I love it. Just intensely chalky and full of quince, yellow fruits and wax. On the palate, well the weakness of the vintage shows, though I believe Jay enjoyed it more than I did. Theres a similar flavor profile as its aromatic character, but the wine is a bit short and the acid structure is formidable. One might even call it lemony. Nice and certainly interesting, but maybe a touch more severe than I prefer, though cheese most certainly wouldve helped the wine out. B.
1989 Foreau- Vouvray Moelleux Reserve
Man, is this good! Its a light amber color, quite a bit lighter than the very dark 90, with orange marmalade, apricot and mineral flavors and aromas that show amazing intensity. While quite sweet, theres razor wire acidity that keeps things precise and perfectly balanced. Its just started to pick up some earl grey notes, but, man, does this wine go on and on. Just another data point that 1989, in my mind, is the best vintage for Loire Chenin Blanc since at least 59, but maybe even since 47 given that the full spectrum in Vouvray, from Sec to late harvest and from Savennieres to Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux and Coteaux du Layon, are just really special wines that show wonderful depth of fruit and exquisite balance. I could also expand it to say whites in the Loire in General as the Cour Cheverny, Muscadet and Sancerre Ive also had from 89 have all been stellar. Low A+.
I was sitting at table with a Bordeaux theme, but I did manage to get some sips from other tables. Given all the hubbub around me and the fact that I was taking a lot of pictures, my notes are fairly cursory.
Cheers.
1989 Huet- Vouvray Sec, Le Haut-Lieu
I kind gift pour from Jay miller. Just as good as the last bottle I tried in October. Vivid yet rich with chalky Vouvray minerality, quince, green almond and yellow apples. No shell notes like I got last time, though there is a waxy quality to it. Drinking well, though no hurry here. Perhaps my favorite Sec. A-.
1983 Palmer- Margaux
Aromoatically, its rather nice. Theres perfumed cherry, dank earth with a touch of eucalyptus and brown spices. However, on the palate its a bit withdrawn and not really showing as it usually does. Up front theres some nice warmth by way of earthy and spicy notes, but theres no fruit in the middle or end. Normally this wine has plenty of fruit. The finish shows some toughness and too much eucalyptus for my taste. B+/B.
1982 Loville-Poyferr- St. Julien (Mystery wine)
Earthy, slightly musty nose with blackish fruit. Harmonious and integrated with fairly resolved tannins. Nice interplay between the earthy notes and desiccated fruit. It picks up a touch of tobacco on the finish. Pleasant, but no real oomph. I had two guesses. One was a 70 St. Julien and if not that, I guessed maybe a poorly stored 80s St. Julien, or, more precisely, an 81 St. Julien. Given the year and Producer and past experiences with the bottle, I dont believe it was a pristine bottle. I dont think it so severe heat, but low and slow exposure. B+.
1982 Cos DEstournal- St. Estephe
A really nice showing for this wine. Too often Ive been disappointed by how a number of the 80s Cos have aged as it seems that they have shed their fruit, become nothing much more than earthy and spicy and tediously boring. Not this one. Yes, theres earthiness and spice, but theres also sweet black fruit to balance it out and a dash of cocoa. Solid structure with nice vibrancy. A/A-.
1986 Cos DEstournal- St. Estephe
My last bottle and one of my least favorite showings. This is one of Cos wines/vintages that, while highly praised by the critics, I find has not aged well. In the late 90s there was terrific fruit in this wine, but also formidable structure that seemed to suggest that the wine really needed to be left alone for a good while longer. Ive had the wine probably eight times in the last eight years and its gone nowhere. The fruit has faded and what I usually get is just a boring, earthy wine. Slight difference in this showing as it showed a completely atypical eucalyptus character that completely dominated the wine. Not a fan. B-/C+.
1989 Tertre Roteboeuf- St. milion
From a small pour from the other Bordeaux table that was doing all 89s. Shows some red fruit and stewed tomatoes on the nose. Shrill on the palate and quite shallow. Brown earth and brown spices with desiccated cherry fruit and that odd tomato note. Seems like poor storage. C+ .
1989 LEvangile- Pomerol
Another gift from the next table. Tight aromatically. Elegant, lean and precise with cherry, earth and root spices. Earth dominates and a bit more stuffing would certainly do it some good. Its a little too linear for my tastes. B+/B.
1964 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva, Via Real (from 375 ml)
A generous pour from Jay Miller who brought a half bottle of this with a great fill. This wine was beautiful. Silky, elegant and perfectly mature. Cherries, earth and worn wood and spices dance on the tongue. Wish I had more. Oh, wait. I just got halves and 750s of this. Yippee! A-.
2000 Beaucastel- Chteaneuf-du-Pape, Hommage a Jacques Perrin
Brad Coelho was generous in giving me a sip of this from his glass. Honestly, I wanted to give him a body blow and run off with his glass. Just an astounding mouthful. Intense, rich yet somehow it manages to stay light on its feet. Theres decadent blackberry/black raspberry, lots of black licorice and a hint of meat in a forward and very friendly package. While only a mouthful, it was my wine of the night. A+.
1998 Beaucastel- Chteaneuf-du-Pape
Many thanks to the Rhone table for this pour. This remains one of my all time favorite Beaucastels. Theres just a lot to love here. Its rich, but wonderfully proportioned and full of black fruit, meat, licorice and cocoa. Its young, but just starting to emerge from its shell. Give it air if you cant keep your hands off as there are some big tannins, but theres plenty of fruit to tame them. Solid A to A+/A.
1986 Margaux- Margaux
Wait, can I coin a phrase? Yum-o! Beautiful! Intensely aromatic and like the smell of crushed cherries wafting through a cedar forest on the NW coast after a rain. While the 86 tannins are present, theres a delicate lightness to this wine that is just sublime while at the same time it shows substance. Like flavors with a hit of green tobacco on the way out. Lovely. A.
1990 LEvangile- Pomerol
I consider myself very lucky to have had this gem of a wine twice in the last couple of months. This is simply stunning stuff. Theres a perfectly integrated WIP (Weapon of Intense Pleasure) explosion out of the glass and in the mouth thats full of rich n sweet black fruit, cocoa, earth and herb. Multi-layered, dense and perfectly balanced, if young. Youll want to wring every last drop out of the bottle. A+/A.
1990 Montrose- St. Estephe
A bit of a polarizing bottle. Some folks at my table had this as their favorite wine of the night. I found it a completely atypical and not so good showing. Normally, this wine shows a dry port like character thats just dense and maybe a little too much in character. I actually usually prefer the 89 to it, but this wine is never really a slouch. Yet I found this bottle to show a lot of greenness, most especially from the wood tannins. I found precious little fruit here and even very little Brett, which this wine normally exhibits plenty off. There are still some things to like here, but this is unlike any showing Ive had of this wine. Doesnt seem like bad storage. Perhaps barrel variation? B+/B.
1989 Latour- Pauillac
Another donation from the other Bordeaux table. Always a relatively elegant vintage for Latour, I think this wine has filled in a little with age. Theres a rush of suave red fruit, cedar, tobacco and earth that gently tickles the tastebuds and tries, perhaps not too successfully given the flavor profile, to trick you into believing its a Burgundy given its relative lightness. I used to consider this a dog for the vintage. No longer. Low A-.
2000 La Fleur de Board- Lalande de Pomerol (mystery wine)
Young and tight with green wood tannins and barrel char. Theres some upfront fruit thats quite polished, but overall the wine is coarse and hollow. I guess a new fangled right bank wine that Rolland had his hand in. Not what I look for in Bordeaux. B-/C+.
1998 Haut Brion- Pessac-Lognan
Ahhh, this is more like it. Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion always feel like home to me. Theres just something so comforting in the black earthy goodness that these wines blanket you in. Theres very pleasing black fruit here, but its not too lush and the wine is just starting to take on more mature tobacco notes. Dont mind me if I curl up with this bottle in the other room. A/A-.
1988 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec, Le Haut-Lieu
Another sip sent over by Jay Miller. I had recently found a stash of Huet that I got some of my Huet loving friends in on and this was one of those bottles. As I have one and have never tried the wine before, I was eager to see how it is. Aromatically, I love it. Just intensely chalky and full of quince, yellow fruits and wax. On the palate, well the weakness of the vintage shows, though I believe Jay enjoyed it more than I did. Theres a similar flavor profile as its aromatic character, but the wine is a bit short and the acid structure is formidable. One might even call it lemony. Nice and certainly interesting, but maybe a touch more severe than I prefer, though cheese most certainly wouldve helped the wine out. B.
1989 Foreau- Vouvray Moelleux Reserve
Man, is this good! Its a light amber color, quite a bit lighter than the very dark 90, with orange marmalade, apricot and mineral flavors and aromas that show amazing intensity. While quite sweet, theres razor wire acidity that keeps things precise and perfectly balanced. Its just started to pick up some earl grey notes, but, man, does this wine go on and on. Just another data point that 1989, in my mind, is the best vintage for Loire Chenin Blanc since at least 59, but maybe even since 47 given that the full spectrum in Vouvray, from Sec to late harvest and from Savennieres to Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux and Coteaux du Layon, are just really special wines that show wonderful depth of fruit and exquisite balance. I could also expand it to say whites in the Loire in General as the Cour Cheverny, Muscadet and Sancerre Ive also had from 89 have all been stellar. Low A+.