Lee and Melissa Short and L and I trouped (trooped?) up to Bellingham to join Marc and MJ D and his Bellingham wine gang for some northern Rhones. By the end of night we were immersed in tales of lepidoptery north of the Arctic Circle, the best places in SE Oregon to drink beer on dirt roads, and other important topics.
The wines were excellent; but some of the latent preferences for northern Rhone prime time drinking continued in full tilt. This tasting for me was proof positive that top tier Rhones from blockier vintages really are happier with 15 - 20 years under them. As good as many of the wines were, to me they wanted a bit more time to round off some of the rougher edges. As time goes on I am impressed by the accuracy of JLLs drinkability assessments. But this is just me; Marc D may weigh in as I know his feelings are different. Vive la difference!
We actually started with a couple St. J rouges as aperitifs -
1998 Chave St. Joseph Estate - This was the first time I'd actually had this wine, and it was as I would expect - meat, dense, mineral, just slightly bitter. For me this really wanted some more time to unwind, and I am sure it will improve.
1997 JL Grippat Vignes de l'Hospice - This wine reappeared, this bottle a little off the last I had. It seemed a bit dumb and then came to life later in the evening. But I may have been distracted. This is absolutely prime drinking right now, with great mineral interplay.
We were a little disorganized and then moved into a couple of whites.
1994 Chave Hermitage blanc - Lovely wine. Very harmonious balance of licorice and honeyed minerality. With air gained power. Finished very dry and almost saline; it was really deceptive though because it carried great weight and glycerality. I loved it. Thanks to Serge and Warren, this was beyond the call of duty.
2003 Guigal St. Joseph Lieu dit St. Joseph - A disgusting concoction of coconut and oak. Repulsive.
Then into the meat of the evening, literally and figuratively.
1997 Duclaux CR - very corked.
1997 Ogier Belle Helene - A Guigal wannabee; I couldn't get past the wall of oak in the back end. I just don't get it.
1998 Burgaud CR - This is my fourth in the last year; each has been different. A couple were pretty bretty. This one was so clean and pure that Marc said it was Burgundian, and I agree. Lots of subtle dense flavors going on. There's a German jelly candy I don't know the name of that this reminded me of. Melissa's take was that this had a lot more to give; I think I agree but this didn't have any hard edges at this point either. Fantastic purity in this wine; makes me think of Levet.
1995 GAEC Vernay (Not Georges) CR - I liked this; nice emergent CR ashiness. I think this was right around the corner from prime time.
1996 Jaboulet Hermitage Chapelle - I was really disappointed by this; far too over oaked which just overwhelmed the 96 structure.
We then moved into some Cornas, which were showing off their earlier drinkability.
1998 Clape Cornas - Classic Clape, all the typical elements. This had been decanted which opened it up but I will hazard a guess and say that I also think this diminished it a bit and the expense of opening it up. I really felt that this needed a couple more year and not decanted.
1998 Verset Cornas - OK, this was the best red of the eve for me, by far, along with the 92 Belle. Will age longer but for me in prime. Classic complex elements of olives, earth, ash, fruit, just super. I will jump out and say this will top the Clape in its prime. A great example of why people consider Verset the king of Cornas.
1996 Verset Cornas - And here's an example of why people say Verset completely fell apart in the 90s. SO2, my old Adidas Roms from high school, stewed rubber from the 50s. Disgusting wine. Marc, this was just as bad yesterday.
1998 Allemand Chaillot - Total quality, but far too young.
1992 Belle C-H Cuvee Louis Belle - My last of a little pile. Wonderful, eye opening, liquid, complex leather/earth interplay, fanning out into a bouyant inner mouth perfume, not over the hill, a sit up wine. A little lost in the final haze of the evening but for me an absolute standout. Not anomolous, just at the right age! A great example of the quality northern Crozes can achieve.
2004 Mas Blanc Banyuls - A little too honeyed for my taste.
After Marc and MJ graciously hosted us for the night, we went for a great walk with Marc down to Bellingham harbor, and then headed out for a little birding on the way home. Stopped at Slough Food for picnic eating (Marc - he has some 03 Rousset Picaudieres!), we went to the Skagit west 90 T junction for some hawk watching. A pair of short eared owls trolled the fields, and we enjoyed a 1996 Chave Offerus. Just great with the meats from Slough Food. I will say, though, true to form, that it needs a few years to round off the catchy rough edges...
The wines were excellent; but some of the latent preferences for northern Rhone prime time drinking continued in full tilt. This tasting for me was proof positive that top tier Rhones from blockier vintages really are happier with 15 - 20 years under them. As good as many of the wines were, to me they wanted a bit more time to round off some of the rougher edges. As time goes on I am impressed by the accuracy of JLLs drinkability assessments. But this is just me; Marc D may weigh in as I know his feelings are different. Vive la difference!
We actually started with a couple St. J rouges as aperitifs -
1998 Chave St. Joseph Estate - This was the first time I'd actually had this wine, and it was as I would expect - meat, dense, mineral, just slightly bitter. For me this really wanted some more time to unwind, and I am sure it will improve.
1997 JL Grippat Vignes de l'Hospice - This wine reappeared, this bottle a little off the last I had. It seemed a bit dumb and then came to life later in the evening. But I may have been distracted. This is absolutely prime drinking right now, with great mineral interplay.
We were a little disorganized and then moved into a couple of whites.
1994 Chave Hermitage blanc - Lovely wine. Very harmonious balance of licorice and honeyed minerality. With air gained power. Finished very dry and almost saline; it was really deceptive though because it carried great weight and glycerality. I loved it. Thanks to Serge and Warren, this was beyond the call of duty.
2003 Guigal St. Joseph Lieu dit St. Joseph - A disgusting concoction of coconut and oak. Repulsive.
Then into the meat of the evening, literally and figuratively.
1997 Duclaux CR - very corked.
1997 Ogier Belle Helene - A Guigal wannabee; I couldn't get past the wall of oak in the back end. I just don't get it.
1998 Burgaud CR - This is my fourth in the last year; each has been different. A couple were pretty bretty. This one was so clean and pure that Marc said it was Burgundian, and I agree. Lots of subtle dense flavors going on. There's a German jelly candy I don't know the name of that this reminded me of. Melissa's take was that this had a lot more to give; I think I agree but this didn't have any hard edges at this point either. Fantastic purity in this wine; makes me think of Levet.
1995 GAEC Vernay (Not Georges) CR - I liked this; nice emergent CR ashiness. I think this was right around the corner from prime time.
1996 Jaboulet Hermitage Chapelle - I was really disappointed by this; far too over oaked which just overwhelmed the 96 structure.
We then moved into some Cornas, which were showing off their earlier drinkability.
1998 Clape Cornas - Classic Clape, all the typical elements. This had been decanted which opened it up but I will hazard a guess and say that I also think this diminished it a bit and the expense of opening it up. I really felt that this needed a couple more year and not decanted.
1998 Verset Cornas - OK, this was the best red of the eve for me, by far, along with the 92 Belle. Will age longer but for me in prime. Classic complex elements of olives, earth, ash, fruit, just super. I will jump out and say this will top the Clape in its prime. A great example of why people consider Verset the king of Cornas.
1996 Verset Cornas - And here's an example of why people say Verset completely fell apart in the 90s. SO2, my old Adidas Roms from high school, stewed rubber from the 50s. Disgusting wine. Marc, this was just as bad yesterday.
1998 Allemand Chaillot - Total quality, but far too young.
1992 Belle C-H Cuvee Louis Belle - My last of a little pile. Wonderful, eye opening, liquid, complex leather/earth interplay, fanning out into a bouyant inner mouth perfume, not over the hill, a sit up wine. A little lost in the final haze of the evening but for me an absolute standout. Not anomolous, just at the right age! A great example of the quality northern Crozes can achieve.
2004 Mas Blanc Banyuls - A little too honeyed for my taste.
After Marc and MJ graciously hosted us for the night, we went for a great walk with Marc down to Bellingham harbor, and then headed out for a little birding on the way home. Stopped at Slough Food for picnic eating (Marc - he has some 03 Rousset Picaudieres!), we went to the Skagit west 90 T junction for some hawk watching. A pair of short eared owls trolled the fields, and we enjoyed a 1996 Chave Offerus. Just great with the meats from Slough Food. I will say, though, true to form, that it needs a few years to round off the catchy rough edges...