Fromm La Strada 2002 Pinot Noir (Marlborough) Black roses, dark cherries, and morels still full of earth; this was a brooding wine in the first flush of its youth, and its a brooding wine now. Theres really quite a striking amount of soil here. While the tannic portion of the structure has softened and integrated with the fruit to an extent, its still quite present. But as the wine aerates and the more vivid fruit aromatics start to fade, the earth starts to seem infused with lead. And it is a heavy winetheres no mistaking that. I dont know what to think about this wines future; based on the structure and the amount of youthful fruit it had at release, it should be nowhere near maturity. But based on this performance, some suspicion seems warranted. Its a very compelling wine, albeit decidedly far to one end of the pinot noir spectrum, but I do wonder if the vaunted/feared Fromm structure might have been too much for this particular wine. (1/09)
Chaussard (Briseau) Nana, Vins et Cie 2006 Coteaux du Loir You Are So Beautiful (Loire) A chameleon. For a while, its volatile and prickly, all tinny treble tones. Then it deepens, reaching its most appealing stage with exciting aromas of slightly underripe reddish-green berries gently crushed directly under ones nose; the seemingly brittle exterior is supported by a good deal of pressure within. It broadens further with even more air, but as it does the fruit gains a vinyl sheen dusted with a fairly significant abrasion of fireplace ash, turns to darker berries, then sort of gives up on itself. Ill say this: you wont be bored. (1/09)
Costires & Soleil Slectionn par Laurence Fraud 2005 Plan Pgau (Rhne) Decrepit when first opened. It never really gets much better. Could be a bad bottle, but theres just something about its malaise that makes me doubt it. Spirty-porty in a stale blueberry sort of way, with gravelly tannin and pointless density. Finishes with indifference. Im no Pgau-hater, but this is a very poor performance for this wine. (1/09)
Paul Cluver 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (Elgin) The varietal signature is correct, with a fine mix of dark fruit and the herbed tobacco notes so essential to cabernets individual character (despite what much modern winemaking would suggest), and winemaking residue is moderate for a New World wine coffee dust, some present but unobtrusive oak but the overall package is sludgy. In some fashion, this was pushed beyond where it was willing or able to go, and the result is tiring. (1/09)
Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post 2006 Pinot Noir Cork Dancer 6.1 (Santa Barbara County) Very difficult when first opened, with a whiff of must. This eventually blows away, but the wine left in its wake is ungenerous to the extreme. Roughshod berries, trampled and faded, with the aroma of an old pickup truck are about all there is, though the wine does show hints of blossoming an hour or so down the road. Id suspect a very low-level cork taint, but the wines performance improving over the course of a dinner doesnt quite match that suspicion. (1/09)
Tahbilk 2006 Marsanne (Victoria) Friendly, appealing yellow fruit. Simple and clean, with fair acidity and not much in the way of additional interest, but definitely quaffable. (1/09)
Chaussard (Briseau) Nana, Vins et Cie 2006 Coteaux du Loir You Are So Beautiful (Loire) A chameleon. For a while, its volatile and prickly, all tinny treble tones. Then it deepens, reaching its most appealing stage with exciting aromas of slightly underripe reddish-green berries gently crushed directly under ones nose; the seemingly brittle exterior is supported by a good deal of pressure within. It broadens further with even more air, but as it does the fruit gains a vinyl sheen dusted with a fairly significant abrasion of fireplace ash, turns to darker berries, then sort of gives up on itself. Ill say this: you wont be bored. (1/09)
Costires & Soleil Slectionn par Laurence Fraud 2005 Plan Pgau (Rhne) Decrepit when first opened. It never really gets much better. Could be a bad bottle, but theres just something about its malaise that makes me doubt it. Spirty-porty in a stale blueberry sort of way, with gravelly tannin and pointless density. Finishes with indifference. Im no Pgau-hater, but this is a very poor performance for this wine. (1/09)
Paul Cluver 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (Elgin) The varietal signature is correct, with a fine mix of dark fruit and the herbed tobacco notes so essential to cabernets individual character (despite what much modern winemaking would suggest), and winemaking residue is moderate for a New World wine coffee dust, some present but unobtrusive oak but the overall package is sludgy. In some fashion, this was pushed beyond where it was willing or able to go, and the result is tiring. (1/09)
Hartley-Ostini Hitching Post 2006 Pinot Noir Cork Dancer 6.1 (Santa Barbara County) Very difficult when first opened, with a whiff of must. This eventually blows away, but the wine left in its wake is ungenerous to the extreme. Roughshod berries, trampled and faded, with the aroma of an old pickup truck are about all there is, though the wine does show hints of blossoming an hour or so down the road. Id suspect a very low-level cork taint, but the wines performance improving over the course of a dinner doesnt quite match that suspicion. (1/09)
Tahbilk 2006 Marsanne (Victoria) Friendly, appealing yellow fruit. Simple and clean, with fair acidity and not much in the way of additional interest, but definitely quaffable. (1/09)