Donaldson Family Pegasus Bay 2002 Riesling (Waipara) Melon, mandarin, and metal. Theres some well-balanced sweetness, but an acidic sharpness is really starting to bare the edge of its blade, which amps up the overall intensity. Very appealing. Theres plenty of life left here, and the structure to support it. (2/09)
EMB Kiwi Cuve 2006 Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France Sauvignon Blanc (Loire) Soft-tart green apple. Clean and simple. But the name is an abomination, and all involved should be profoundly ashamed of themselves. The French rightly have a hair-trigger reaction when it comes to protecting their appellations, brands, trademarks, and patrimonial nomenclature. The existence and tolerance of this wine is thus the rankest hypocrisy. (2/09)
Gerard Metz 2005 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) Lychee, dried peach, and pear with some stickiness, as one would expect from the variety. Theres a juicy counterbalance in the form of something that feels more like pineapple juice (from a can, not directly from a pineapple) than pure acidity, which by its nature doesnt quite integrate with the wines varietal aspects. Yet its a nice enough wine, with good length. Maybe time will help bring the disparate parts together, but Im doubtful. (2/09)
Dog Point 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Sophisticated and polished. Theres minerality here under a blizzard-textured storm of pale fruit, edged by green yet more richly-hued at the core. Recognizably sauvignon, perhaps even recognizably Marlborough, but atypical in the best sort of way. (2/09)
Lini 910 2007 Lambrusco Bianco Labrusca (Emilia-Romagna) White flower petals, sweet green melon. Light and lively, but old-timeyan incandescent bulb radiating white light with a touch of yellow. Fun. (2/09)
Marco Felluga 2006 Collio Ribolla Gialla (Friuli Venezia Giulia) As ribolla goes, this is a medium-light versionwhich is to say, it would be somewhat leaden were it a different grape. Theres a decent amount of crispness, but the wine will never be light on its feet. Wax, candleflame, preserved lemon, green leaves, and the barest hint of a brown, gravelly minerality. But its also fairly short, and somewhat insubstantial. (2/09)
Jadot 2006 Pouilly-Fuiss (Mcon) Faceted chardonnay, clean and simple, with not much in the way of it. And not much else to it, either. This isnt really a complaint its a perfectly decent quaff but I do wish it was a little less boring. (2/09)
Trimbach 2005 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) Apricot skin around a mostly transparent sphere of some light-minded metal. Good structure. Light, friendly, simple. (2/09)
Font-Mars 2007 Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc) Juicy greenish-yellow fruit, intense and insistent but not sharp. Some leaves and twigs complete the picture. A guzzler. (2/09)
Tohu 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) A textbook historical summary Marlborough sauvignon, combining the brash green of the old and the sweeter tropicality of the new. Not particularly exciting, to be sure, but highly representative. (2/09)
EMB Kiwi Cuve 2006 Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France Sauvignon Blanc (Loire) Soft-tart green apple. Clean and simple. But the name is an abomination, and all involved should be profoundly ashamed of themselves. The French rightly have a hair-trigger reaction when it comes to protecting their appellations, brands, trademarks, and patrimonial nomenclature. The existence and tolerance of this wine is thus the rankest hypocrisy. (2/09)
Gerard Metz 2005 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) Lychee, dried peach, and pear with some stickiness, as one would expect from the variety. Theres a juicy counterbalance in the form of something that feels more like pineapple juice (from a can, not directly from a pineapple) than pure acidity, which by its nature doesnt quite integrate with the wines varietal aspects. Yet its a nice enough wine, with good length. Maybe time will help bring the disparate parts together, but Im doubtful. (2/09)
Dog Point 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Sophisticated and polished. Theres minerality here under a blizzard-textured storm of pale fruit, edged by green yet more richly-hued at the core. Recognizably sauvignon, perhaps even recognizably Marlborough, but atypical in the best sort of way. (2/09)
Lini 910 2007 Lambrusco Bianco Labrusca (Emilia-Romagna) White flower petals, sweet green melon. Light and lively, but old-timeyan incandescent bulb radiating white light with a touch of yellow. Fun. (2/09)
Marco Felluga 2006 Collio Ribolla Gialla (Friuli Venezia Giulia) As ribolla goes, this is a medium-light versionwhich is to say, it would be somewhat leaden were it a different grape. Theres a decent amount of crispness, but the wine will never be light on its feet. Wax, candleflame, preserved lemon, green leaves, and the barest hint of a brown, gravelly minerality. But its also fairly short, and somewhat insubstantial. (2/09)
Jadot 2006 Pouilly-Fuiss (Mcon) Faceted chardonnay, clean and simple, with not much in the way of it. And not much else to it, either. This isnt really a complaint its a perfectly decent quaff but I do wish it was a little less boring. (2/09)
Trimbach 2005 Pinot Blanc (Alsace) Apricot skin around a mostly transparent sphere of some light-minded metal. Good structure. Light, friendly, simple. (2/09)
Font-Mars 2007 Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc) Juicy greenish-yellow fruit, intense and insistent but not sharp. Some leaves and twigs complete the picture. A guzzler. (2/09)
Tohu 2007 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) A textbook historical summary Marlborough sauvignon, combining the brash green of the old and the sweeter tropicality of the new. Not particularly exciting, to be sure, but highly representative. (2/09)