Boston Heredia dinner TNs

Peter Czyryca

Peter Czyryca
Greet seeing everyone last night, quite delicious lineup. Thanks to all for being generous and bringing the following doozies:

NV Dhondt BdB

This bottle came off as a touch sweeter than prior bottles, but still a pleasure to drink. Really opened up with air, revealing gingersnaps, minerality and a subtle creaminess.

1981 LdH Tondonia GR (blanco)

85% Viura, 15% Malvasia. As Angelo noted, the color tricks you into thinking this will be a sweet, sticky-esque wine. Au contraire. This wine changed like a chameleon all night long. Began extremely pleasurable with slight petrol and sherry notes, some lemon peel, marshmallow and orange pledge scent. The wine was almost salty, coating your mouth in velvet before wrapping up with coconut notes on the finish. However, things took a sad turn for the worse much later in the night, when mustard seed completely dominated both the nose and palate. Chemical Ali would have loved this wine around 930pm last night. Prior to the mustard attack, one heck of a wine.

1961 Tondonia

Sourced by Ted from The Rare Wine Co, and very generous of him to have brought it. The label didn't reveal whether this was a Reserva or Gran Reserva - no matter. It was a treat, and tasted no more than 10-15 years old. Color was crazy dark for a 1961. Starts with sour/tart cranberry, like a cranberry spritzer would taste without the spritz. Beautiful leather note in the bouquet mixed with sous bois/autumn leaves. The fruit is so chewy and energetic, I just can't believe how young it is. Nice lift on the back end, with a hint of menthol. There is a God, and he likes Rioja.

1976 Tondonia GR

Very feminine, would have guessed a Bosconia. You get a noseful of shrooms and sous bois, alongside rose petals. Very pretty nose - theme continues on the palate, with perfect acidic balance, really amping up the red/black cherry fruit. Reminds me of the smell of the Boston Public Garden on a humid, summer day - of course, I'd be sneezing in that scenario b/c of allergies, but this wine takes me there sans sniffles.

1978 Bosconia GR

Another winner. Oddly darker in color than the 1987 Bosconia GR. There's some herbs and celery salt/seed that aren't offputting, think a 2004 burg that has ripe fruit, and the mirepoix just adds to the complexity. Black cherry and raspberry are crazily persistent, this is palate staining fruit. Some orange rind and candied cherry linger forever after you sip.

1987 Bosconia GR

This is burgundy, I swear it. Pure red fruits are layered and more intense than the aforementioned 1978 due to youth, I'd suspect. Color is lighter, which seems a bit odd, but whatever. Savory/terroir/mineral/long are underlined in my notes. I can't argue with any of those impressions the next day.

1999 Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Auslese

What a way to wind down an otherwordly set of wines. Impeccable balance throughout, featuring honey, slate, minerality and orchard fruit. Acidity keeps the sweetness in check - or is it the other way around. At any rate, a favorite of mine, must find some.

Bottom line, LdH is in my top 3 of favorite producers now - all reaffirmed by the lineup last night. The wines are loaded with material, aren't cliched and are beautiful works of art. You could spend a week analyzing each wine - but who has the patience for that when they taste so damn good.

The group rated them as follows, though all agreed that it was like arguing one supermodel prettier than the next.

First place votes:

2 -1978

2 -1987

1- 1961

Second place votes:

3-1976

1-1978

1-1987
 
originally posted by Peter Czyryca:

1981 LdH Tondonia GR (blanco)

Chemical Ali would have loved this wine around 930pm last night.

I didn't know he injested his own potions.

1961 Tondonia...The label didn't reveal whether this was a Reserva or Gran Reserva...Color was crazy dark for a 1961...I just can't believe how young it is.

Sounds good. I guess the label was clear enough to reveal the year as 1961 and not something much younger :)
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Peter Czyryca:

1981 LdH Tondonia GR (blanco)

Chemical Ali would have loved this wine around 930pm last night.

I didn't know he injested his own potions.

1961 Tondonia...The label didn't reveal whether this was a Reserva or Gran Reserva...Color was crazy dark for a 1961...I just can't believe how young it is.

Sounds good. I guess the label was clear enough to reveal the year as 1961 and not something much younger :)

I bet Ali was a crazy son-o-bitch in his heyday.
 
Nice notes. I love those wines. IIRC, I opened a 58 that did not say reserva or Gran Reserva. I contacted the winery and they said it was the Reserva, the Grand Reserva would say so.
 
Hey Peter, great notes. Thanks for putting that together - a really fun evening with great company, a really fantastic eye-opening lineup of wines and tremendous food (my first experience at Troquet and I'm looking forward to heading back, especially after that duck confit).

Pretty much all the wines hit the spot... the Dhondt was a great introduction to that style, and the Lopez de Heredia wines were stunning across the board. Even though I normally don't like oxidative whites that much, I loved the white - somehow it managed to keep a sense of freshness and brightness despite the more oxidative buttery/nutty flavours and I thought it was fantastic (until it turned to mustard late in the night). The reds were superb across the board... if I had to pick a favourite it would be the '78 Bosconia - just a really stellar wine that I thought had a ton of complexity and depth and kept improving through the night. The Tondonias were also stunning - was a revelation to sit with those old wines over 2-3 hours and watch some of them actually pick up weight and depth with air and improve over the evening.
Loved the Wittmann (which is a wine I really need to get some more of) - just amazing power, depth and balance there with more lift and elegance than I've seen in other '99s.

Hell of an evening - and I'll definitely have to keep an eye out for more Lopez wines for my cellar in the future!
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Brad Kane loves the '78 Bosconia too, which should reinforce your thinking.

Actually, I've never had the '78 Bosconia, only the Tondonia, which, as you know, I've described as Mr. Ed and surrounding soil decomposing in a glass.
 
So I take it you loved it? :P

None of the wines (other than the 81 mustard) had any oppressive odors/stank, though we didn't have the offending 78 Tondonia...
 
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