Godammit...I check in here on my way to going to sleep and then Bwood has to go "so what" and it's one of the only times that it's okay to put "Kind of Blue" on the hi-fi. I hear these songs played in Starbucks and in The Gap and at every fern bar and restaurant and "we-know-wine" bar on the westside and it might as well wallpaper, the "fabric of our lives" or whatever jingle co-opts Miles' work.
But it's past midnight and I've been drinking Austrian pinot (04 Brundlmayer Cecile) and I just got some Prada shoes on eBay for $50 and I'm a little buzzed and there's no traffic and the stereo's been on since about 5:30 yesterday morning and the tubes are all warm and glowing and I can crank it up and my neighbors will neither hear it nor complain. My system isn't so good as to make me think that these guys have become zombies and have resurrected themselves to perform in my *********** but it sounds pretty damn good, with plenty of percussiveness from the bass and some real grip coming from Coltrane's solo on "So What". The high quality, limited edition gold CD really does sound better than the LP on my system, and it's hard to believe that they recorded this album in a studio with florescent lighting, y'know?
"But what does this have to do with Wendouree and the soul of Australian wine?" you might be asking.
As I see it, Australia has been a pretty cool place (figuratively, not literally, unless you want to get into place like the Hunter Valley or the nether regions of Victoria) to grow wine since the late 1700s. Sure, their fear of success (and bankruptcy) created the vine pull scheme of the 1980s that crippled the fine wine, old vine side of the biz forever, but they really screwed the pooch after Parker over-bestowed points on the cultiest of wines in the early years of the current millennium. As Jay Miller rightly pointed out in his recent introduction to his reviews in some wine rag somewhere, the Australians decided to give the customers what they wanted and since those customers were followers of The Wine Advocate, they followed the scent of Mammon and the US market rather than the Oz buyers who appreciated what they'd been making all along but weren't willing to pay enough to buy the winemakers a Porsche or two.
"Bigger is better" goes the saying and the prices rose higher and faster than anything offered in spam emails. I've got it on good authority that the secondary auction market may or may not have been manipulated by people who may or may not have had an educated inkling as to the magnitudes of greatness that would be found in the scores, and this opportunism combined with too many dot.com geniuses with too many dot.com dollars created a juggernaut of escalating prices built on genuine rarity. Winemakers seized on the situation as a means to prove their invincibility and vinous superiority and began charging all the market would bear. Simultaneously (well, pretty much so), the beer companies began buying up vineyards and wineries and the wine biz at one level (cheap-shit critter labels) became focussed on quarterly earnings reports and at the other end on how big a Mercedes the wife wanted to go along with your Porsche. The low end killt itself off in a mad quest for market share while the super-ultra-premium side did a good job of pricing itself out of the market. All of this was done under the aegis of a government plan to turn Australia into the world's greatest wine exporting nation by about 2025. They achieved this goal sometime in the last five years but did so by stressing quantity over quality in a Machiavellian quest for dominance.
It was very similar to the situation that Boffer Biggs found himself in, lo these many years ago in the Ambrose Bierce story.
We're about five years into the Aussie wine biz hangover and there are a bunch of people running around wondering why they're wines get good scores but they hit the closeout bins before they'd been even brought into the store. And the Australian wines are more diverse and interesting than ever. Interesting (and tasty) pinots are coming from the Mornington Pennisula that are more than credible (yet not to the point of being incredible) and regions such as Orange and Heathcote are producing wines that are quite interesting, but aren't exactly reminiscent of things we've tasted from the Old World. Which brings us back to Wendouree (you knew I'd get here eventually, didn't you)!
Wendouree never got caught up in the mess. Their wines were already in such high demand that someone would have to die before a space would open up on the list. They are earthy, rooty, and minty with enough tannic structure to pass for Madiran and they lack overt frootiness and there's little hedonistic about them. When you'd see them in a wine shop, there'd always be a premium placed on the price. They were valued by the locals and since they didn't appeal to the Parkeristas, they weren't scooped up by the grey marketeers and speculators. Same thing with Mount Mary, Giaconda, Yarra Yering, and other codger wines that were revered in Australia but received scant attention over here. These producers (and many others) would probably delight FL Jim and others who've sworn off their Australian wine hangovers (physical and financial) forever, having been burned too many times. It's their loss, but an understandable one, and the Australian wine industry is just now beginning to wake up to what they've done to themselves.
Omnipresence is not a good thing for art. The ubiquitous nature of "Kind of Blue" makes it seem less special when I hear it and any day now I expect to hear a version of "Flamenco Sketches" (my favorite track) remixed by the Black-Eyed Peas or Timbaland in the background of some feminine deodorant spray commercial during American Idol. Cool. More money for the Davis estate. Penfolds may make Grange in quantities measured in acre-feet, but it's still good, as "Kind of Blue" is still good. But at some point it gets to be about more than what's in the bottle (or in the grooves) and it stops being fun. And fun is what's missing from Australian wine these days - the sense of newness and undiscovered treasure in the bottle. It's sort of there, but you've got to know where to look, just like everything on "Kind of Blue" is the Voice Of God or that (suprise!) not every track on "The Complete Jack Johnson Sessions" needs to be put on the iPod.
-Eden (I always liked "In A Silent Way" more than "Kind of Blue" anyway)(and Steve G, they're indeed technically "Birk's Works" but I'm getting kind of dizzy at this stage so will wait until tomorrow to complete this thought)