TN: Six '89 Vietti with Luca Currado

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
Luca Currado, proprietor/winemaker of Vietti was in town this past weekend and Greg dal Piaz corralled some of the usual Barolo lovers for a fantastic evening featuring the wines of Vietti. During a visit from Luca a year ago, Greg put a stunning Vietti- Barolo Rocche vertical together. This time he would showcase five Barolo and one Barbaresco from the remarkable 1989 vintage with all the wines coming from his cellar.

For those that have never met Luca, he is one of the most down to earth and charming fellows you could hope to meet in the wine business, full of funny stories and great insight.

The dinner was held at our usual go to, Il Corso and in attendance was Luca, Greg, Asher Rubinstein, Chris Kravitz, Dan Tisch, Marty Neschis and yours truly. Wines are in the order tasted, though I didnt include notes on a Champagne and white Burg starter.

Cheers.

1989 Vietti- Barolo Castiglione
What a great way to start. This bottle was just showing all its goodies with reckless abandon. Quite showy and fragrant with sweet red cherries, brown spices, cardamom, earth and beef blood. On the palate its absolutely at peak and strutting its stuff. The fruit is fresh, but has also taken on secondary notes. Similar flavors as aromas with firm but manageable structure. The only thing that really separates this wine from the wines that followed was perhaps a bit of layering and depth. A-.

1989 Vietti- Barbaresco Masseria
A completely different wine from the Castiglione. Rather muted on the nose and overall a shier wine thats much less sure of itself and has a rather ambivalent and dark personality. The fruit is darker here and theres a strong beef jerky note to the wine. I find it a bit more elegant throughout the palate, though it turns a little rustic on the finish. A goth wine. B+.

1989 Vietti- Barolo Brunate
This was showing just beautifully. Certainly the most forward of the more serious Barolo, its fruit driven but with a darker, fresher and more complex personality than the Castiglione. Theres a boatload of sweet cherries with licorice, bakers spices, cocoa and cement dust. Asher and Greg mention something about some grittiness upfront that smoothes out, but Im not getting that. Generous, focused and integrated, I really dig the purity of the fruit at the core. Just hitting its stride. A.

1989 Vietti- Barolo Rocche
This stood in stark contrast to the Brunate. Whereas the Brunate was voluptuous and upfront, this wine is seriously closed down and showing nothing like it did at the Rocche vertical last year. The wine is dense, layered and stuffed with goodness including rich dark fruit at its center, but it really doesnt want to come out and play. Tannin pig that he is, I think it was Gregs wine of the night, but while I agree the quality is absolutely there and may in fact be the best wine Vietti made in that vintage, for right now I find the Brunate and Villero Riserva showing better. Low A now with A+ /A potential based on previous showings.

1989 Vietti- Barolo Lazzarito
Showed a little darker in color than the previous few wines and had a wildly fragrant nose that was fruit driven and full of cherries, berries, cement dust, roses, cocoa, spice and light balsam notes. Quite intense upfront and fruit driven, but the structure came up big time on the back end, the fruit receded and the wine seemed to thin out. While certainly enjoyable, its just not as complete as the others. Low A-.

1989 Vietti- Barolo Riserva Villero
The last Vietti of the night just edges out all the others for WOTN for me. This is stunner. The most feminine wine of the bunch, but theres tremendous depth and complexity and reminds me of the Brunate with the purity of its fruit. I find it shows the most minerality with a strong cement dust element and is quite floral. The wine really carries itself well and is like a mature woman thats supremely confident in her place and her sexuality. A real joy to drink. Solid A.

A throw in

1989 Cavallotto- Barolo Riserva, Vigna San Giuseppe
Shows more of a blacker fruit profile than the Viettis with loads of sweet black licorice, chocolate, spice and the black char of beef stuck on the grill. On the palate, while quite pleasant in its own right, it comes of as a bit simple and one dimensional against the other wine. The flavors are all upfront and lack depth and the wine falls off on the finish. Better to have had it on its own. Low A-.

1971 Baumard- Quarts de Chaume
I threw this in as I wanted something sweet. Shouldve opened it up in the day so it wouldve had a chance to fill in. Showed better on the nose than on the palate, where it remained fairly inexpressive. The usual, bergamot, orange citrus, apricot and some mineral, but Ive had better bottles. B+, though most showings are in the A- range.

Some pics from the evening...

The lineup.

Greg arrives with a bagful of goodies.

Luca Currado, man of the hour.

Asher and Chris are happy to be there.

Greg, Luca & Dan.

Greg, me & Luca.

Dan & Asher ham it up.

Greg & Luca, satisfied after a great dinner.

Luca's posse lingers on the street.
 
Thanks, Brad. When I tasted the 89 Villero some years back it still had a long way to go to become balanced and resolve the oak. I've got a bottle left and I might still wait a bit of time before cracking it.

Best,
Joe
 
originally posted by Joe Perry:
When I tasted the 89 Villero some years back it still had a long way to go to become balanced and resolve the oak.

Oak was not a factor in any of the wines we had.
 
Not even the Brunate?

Maybe I am thinking of the 97 Villero which I also have a bottle of and drank some years back. One of the two was good, but showed oak that needed to intergrate. I'll have to check my notes...
 
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
Looks like a real fun evening.

Brad, any take on the '97 Castiglione? (Or any other '97 Vietti, for that matter...)

Haven't had the '97 Castiglione, but here's my note on the '97 Rocche I had at the '67 - '04 Rocche vertical Greg put together last year:

1997 Vietti- Barolo, Rocche
Riper and less floral on the nose and palate than the '96. Doesn't show any of the depth or elegance of the '96 and the tannins are a little coarse and unripe. Perhaps a little too critical, as the wine was good, but I was hoping for a little more. It may yet blossom when it fills out. A-/B+.
 
Do you need a note on Vietti Castiglione? The answer to this wine is always "yes".

Traditional Barolo for around $40? Vintage is not an issue.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
Looks like a real fun evening.

Brad, any take on the '97 Castiglione? (Or any other '97 Vietti, for that matter...)

Haven't had the '97 Castiglione, but here's my note on the '97 Rocche I had at the '67 - '04 Rocche vertical Greg put together last year:

1997 Vietti- Barolo, Rocche
Riper and less floral on the nose and palate than the '96. Doesn't show any of the depth or elegance of the '96 and the tannins are a little coarse and unripe. Perhaps a little too critical, as the wine was good, but I was hoping for a little more. It may yet blossom when it fills out. A-/B+.

Sorry it took a while to check this, Brad. Busy week. Thanks for the notes. Reading this tn and coupling it with my recent '97 (Castiglione) experience, I'm curious what the current estimation of the '97 vintage is, say compared to '96 or '98, 99, amongst Barolo freaks (which, due to financial constraints, sadly I am not). I know it was a very ripe year, but I've not heard what that amounts to 12 yrs later. The Castiglione I had was extremely closed...took several hours of aeration to bring out some nice perfumey tars, licorice and leather notes, but the palate never did ever quite flesh out. Sour cherry notes were well in place, yet very little ripeness just barely peeking thru. Mouthfeel unremarkable. Sort of like a wine that was showing 2/3's of it's potential. On the other hand, I couldn't imagine that sideways time was going to help remedy that (but what do I know?). Do the '97's just need more time? Or just more air time once opened? Or is this austere, floral dominant profile what you expect from Vietti?
 
On the 97, it's a tricky vintage to prognosticate. No real depth of knowledge to work against that freak of a vintage. Your experience sounds like an immature, closed bottle of Castiglione. This bottling tends towards a leaner expression of nebbiolo with a fair note of austerity and I don't really see any reason for the 97 to veer from that model. As a vintage it shares more in common with 98 than 99 or 96, that is to say it is looked at with more than a little suspicion. Having said that I think it may prove to be superior to the 98s and, in particular, wines from secondary vineyards may have faired best during the extreme condition of 97.
 
Thanks Gregory. That helps a lot. Given your comments and the fact that Brad's notes are favorable overall, is 20 yrs a good time to open Vietti's in general?
 
I love the artwork on all the Vietti wines. For my Barolo dinner last Saturday the one wine I took and brought back was a 1996 Vietti Brunate (with the cute snail on the label). Several of the people present own that wine and had tried it recently and they all said "keep this one for a while." I have the Brunate and the Villero in the cellar, maybe I will wait for them to hit 20 years.

Sounds like a great occasion. Our only 1989 was the Sperss and that was singing.

F
 
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