Technique Fixations

Might I suggest that we can perhaps close in on spoofulation/spoofiness by considering it as a particular subset of manipulation? That is to say that all spoofy wines have been manipulated in some way, but that not all manipulated wines are spoofy. This leaves us, then, with the added restriction that spoofulation must be manipulation with a particular goal in mind, or so it seems to me. Now let the Dogs of Semantic War have at it!

Mark Lipton
(Foolishly entering an arena where he is clearly out of his depths)
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Might I suggest that we can perhaps close in on spoofulation/spoofiness by considering it as a particular subset of manipulation? That is to say that all spoofy wines have been manipulated in some way, but that not all manipulated wines are spoofy. This leaves us, then, with the added restriction that spoofulation must be manipulation with a particular goal in mind, or so it seems to me. Now let the Dogs of Semantic War have at it!

Mark Lipton
(Foolishly entering an arena where he is clearly out of his depths)

I agree, but note that any number of wines achieve a certain "spoofy," "international" profile without much in the way of manipulation and sometimes no technical wizzardry other than a pair of shears and some toasty oak. See Jay's claim below:

originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
It is, by seeking a definition, to see if there is an agreed upon category. .

Personally, I use the term to refer to end result rather than technique, depending on to what degree the wine resembled the "international style". Many forms of manipulation tend to produce that result (toastly oak, RO) as do vineyard choices (obsession with phenolic ripeness) but it can also come about despite the intention of the producer due to issues beyond his/her control (2003). And some of those forms of manipulation end up not producing wines that I'd describe as spoofed (Roty Burgundies see lots of toasty oak but end up eating it, the 2000 Marechales were lovely despite use of RO).

So my preference is apply it the extent that a wine falls high on the new oak, ripeness, extraction scales. And a wine can be a bit spoofy but still delicious (e.g., the '98 Pape Clement but not the later vintages which are spoofed to the max :) ).

Without at least taking account of intent (if not wizzardry), this leaves us with "all you need to know is what's in the glass." How do you decide which young wines can handle the treatment (Roty, La La's?) and those that cannot? It also leaves out any dialogue with the norms and winemaking culture of the regions in question and risks imposing a rather uniform standard against which all wines are judged. I'd prefer to leave intent in.

I think there needs to be an additional discrimination between "spoofulation," in the sense of artifice and trickery, as in slick make-up or cosmetic surgery, and "gobs," wines which may be rich, plush, and intense, but don't seem fake. It doesn't seem fair to call 2003's or all CA 2004's spoofulated. Can nature spoofulate on its own?
 
I had the pleasure of sitting between the bridges and seeing Cabaret last night and as our party made its way back out of the park thoughts of spoofilation entered my head. That is, a very simple analogy, Liza Minnelli in Cabaret no spoofilation; Scarlett Johansson in Vicky Cristina Barcelona spoofilation.
 
originally posted by JasonA:
Another analogyI had the pleasure of sitting between the bridges and seeing Cabaret last night and as our party made its way back out of the park thoughts of spoofilation entered my head. That is, a very simple analogy, Liza Minnelli in Cabaret no spoofilation; Scarlett Johansson in Vicky Cristina Barcelona spoofilation.

I like your analogy, but see it a little differently.

Scarlett Jo falls more in the "gobs" category, then "spoofilation" IMO.

Woody Allen casting Scarlett in Vicky Christina = "spoofilation"
 
I was rereading Behr's article on Beaujolais (AoE 67) last night, and he was talking to Lapierre about the majority of vintners using thermovinification. "Grapes are heated to 60 degrees, left overnight, and then chilled in the morning before selected yeasts are added and fermentation starts. That gives a flavor of black currant." Lapierre states he likes the flavor, but that the problem to him is that all the wines taste alike.

In the same article, Louis Desvignes states he almost always starts with commercial yeasts, feeling it is too risky to just use native yeasts.

The point for me is that commercial yeast is considered a negative intervention, what some would equate to spoofilation. But Desvignes Cote du Py for me is possibly the standard or ideal for the appellation. I think you have to use end results when talking about spoofilation, but this just keeps going back to its only whats in the glass that matters.
 
From all of the discussion here, there doesn't seem to be a single tool -- save, maybe, MegaPurple -- that automatically equates to spoofilation. There are tons of authentic, transparent wines made from inoculated yeast strains. I think many here would consider Riesling among the varieties best able faithfully to reflect terroir; many German Rieslings are made with inoculated yeasts (so it would be odd if that disqualified one from "real wine" status), and see Oliver's point about producers who inoculate with strains cultured from their own cellars. All that said, I still think there has to be some technical mumbo-jumbo and a sense of artificiality to earn the moniker.
 
We are going around in circles. Im going to propose a definition, with alternatives, but first I want to make clear the criteria for certain positions I will not capture in the definition. It seems to me that there are two things we want to capture in the definition:

1) a type of wine that people object to and
2) an element of intent to create that wine leading to the use of certain forms of manipulation that have as their end to create that wine.

Item two it seems to me is vital for two reasons: first, if we identify spoof simply with a set of characteristics that many of us find objectionable, spoof will become simply a word that means either a kind of wine we dont like or, worse, just wine we dont like. Second, the word implies criticism not just of the wine but of, at the most general terms, the critical, economic and cultural practices that produce it. Limiting it to a kind of wine makes that inference without basis and hence the kind of irresponsible ideology contained in a term like pleasure police. Thus the term has to be specific enough pointedly to exclude some wine that we might not like that we dont think was created or artificed out of that cultural or economic situation. It might also include wines we recognize as spoofed but just like anyway, because we are inconsistent. For this reason, I wont follow Joes and Jays path. I think it tends toward making the term a simple taste evaluation. Theres nothing wrong with taste evaluations, but there is something wrong with taste evaluations that imply unwarranted and aggressive ideological accusations.

For part 1) we can get pretty close to an agreement, probably. I propose wine that has a certain international style connected with the word Parkerization whose features are oakiness, syrupy extraction, overripeness and high alcohol.and one added feature, that will get us to item 2) a pointed departure in these features from wine we connect to those that normally come from that terroirif there is a normal kind of wine that comes from that terroir.

Thus for item 2) I propose either my solution to the contrast: these practices occur in opposition to the tradition of the terroir or Nathans solution (and Joes): these practices occur because of an intention on the part of the winemaker to artifice that form of wine.

Note that because of item 2), not all wines that people find objectionably overripe, extracted, alcoholic, etc. will be able to be called spoofed, and this is the intent. If one can argue that in fact wine made from that terroir has as part of its history and essence (the conditions of climate and grape variety or varieties used), ripeness and high alcohol (CdP) or maybe even heavy oak (Spanish Rioja), then that wine may be found objectionable by some, but not spoofed. Those who object to it will have grounds perhaps for wanting to change the tradition of the terroir (we should really only allow Mourvedre in CdP and develop harvesting practices requisite to the heat that would reduce ripeness and alcohol; Rioja should only be fermented in INOX). But they are arguing for a different kind of wine, not against the specter of Parkerization and spoof, and they will rightly have to defend against proposing a counter-Parkerization spoof of their own.

One can no doubt go on talking about problematical examples, etc. etc. And I recognize that both intention and tradition will still make the terms application to specific wines a matter of debate (I doubt there is any alternative that doesnt). But if people want the term, I suggest debate on the elements of the definition and not worry problems of specific application:

Should item 2 be eliminated and if so, what justification for the term is there that I have missed other than that it makes us happy to use terms of abuse?

If item 2 is kept, should some other term replace tradition or intent? Can natural be sufficiently recuperated to work?

If item 2 is the defining feature, should item 1 be less specified? Even though most people on this board prefer wine to be less fruit, more mineral, lower alcohol, if to create such a wine, one has to work against what the terroir gives, should that wine be considered spoofed, even if its a spoofing we like? Or is the international style as it is now also vital to the term? Suppose a lean, minerally style somehow came to have the force the current international style does and started doing equal depredation tp local culture, would that be objectionable? If not, why arent you still just making a stylistic argument inappropriately given an ideological critique?

I think this is my last attempt to move toward an agreed upon definition. Either negotiation wont go on or it can go on without me.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
The point for me is that commercial yeast is considered a negative intervention, what some would equate to spoofilation. But Desvignes Cote du Py for me is possibly the standard or ideal for the appellation. I think you have to use end results when talking about spoofilation, but this just keeps going back to its only whats in the glass that matters.

If the primary use of the term is as a tasting descriptor, then there's certainly no harm in this.
I tend to look at in conjunction with processes because I've got what is probably an unhealthy obsession with the cause-and-effect of wine.

Could you ever conceive of calling a wine "spoofed" without first tasting it?
Let's say you've been handed a technical sheet about a specific wine, something that details the wine making process, and you find that the wine was made employing every technological trick in the book.... would you call it spoofed then and there, or would you have to try it first?
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
a modest proposal.... For part 1) we can get pretty close to an agreement, probably. I propose wine that has a certain international style connected with the word Parkerization whose features are oakiness, syrupy extraction, overripeness and high alcohol.and one added feature, that will get us to item 2) a pointed departure in these features from wine we connect to those that normally come from that terroirif there is a normal kind of wine that comes from that terroir.

Jonathan:

As we say in Japan "Otsukaresama".
Which literally means "Oh honorable tired one" but is typically invoked when someone seems to be tackling a particularly arduous task.

Given that several folks have expressed a sentiment similar to your own about the meaning of the word, that it carries with it some implication of steroidal top-heaviness, I've come to the conclusion that I was wrong here.
Spoofiness is not just about artificiality. I would have thought the more blatantly commercial Beaujolais spoofed. I would have thought the bucketloads of southern hemisphere specially yeasted, cold-fermented whites, anonymously reeking of pear drops and esters and little else, to be spoofy. But these aren't big wines, so I guess not.
 
originally posted by Bruce G.:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
a modest proposal.... For part 1) we can get pretty close to an agreement, probably. I propose wine that has a certain international style connected with the word Parkerization whose features are oakiness, syrupy extraction, overripeness and high alcohol.and one added feature, that will get us to item 2) a pointed departure in these features from wine we connect to those that normally come from that terroirif there is a normal kind of wine that comes from that terroir.

Jonathan:

As we say in Japan "Otsukaresama".
Which literally means "Oh honorable tired one" but is typically invoked when someone seems to be tackling a particularly arduous task.

Given that several folks have expressed a sentiment similar to your own about the meaning of the word, that it carries with it some implication of steroidal top-heaviness, I've come to the conclusion that I was wrong here.
Spoofiness is not just about artificiality. I would have thought the more blatantly commercial Beaujolais spoofed. I would have thought the bucketloads of southern hemisphere specially yeasted, cold-fermented whites, anonymously reeking of pear drops and esters and little else, to be spoofy. But these aren't big wines, so I guess not.

Consider my penultimate paragraph above and fight for a definition of spoofed that includes artificially achieved non-Parkerized wines. It has the virtue of consistency at least. Maybe you'll persuade others.
 
I am resurrecting this thread, one of the oldest on WD, mostly out of nostalgia. It’s a classic for many reasons, including the fact Loesberg kept going until his was the final word (Jonathan, you know I love you), and also that despite the passage of time and mainstream emergence of the cult of natural wine, we are all basically thinking and talking about about the same shit we ramble about today. Also I missed this thread entirely the first time, 2008 being the year that basically all I did was work.

I was going to post my favorite exchange here but decided no good could come of it.

I will say, I am really looking forward to the release of Black Widow!
 
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