WTN: Friday Dinner

MarkS

Mark Svereika
Ahhh, Spring Break means more than bikinis and babes and (... sorry, lost train of thought for a minute), why it's the time to celebrate new life coming forth and enjoy some wines from friends passing by. Steve was in the neighbourhood and I was cooking so...

For starters, along with the excellent triple-type cream Kunik and some Humboldt Fog, we popped E. Vatan's, Sancerre 'Clos la Neore', 2007, which had some sinewy aromas lurking under a crystalline lemon nose. There's a hidden structure under the bright fruit, kiwi juice, an elegant calcified finish. This is beautiful stuff. My first year, so cannot compare to others, but I liked it immensely and will buy again. A-

With pan-fried bluefish, shrimps in a squash-ancho chile sauce, and cauliflower soup with black truffle, a red:
Dang! The first one was corked! Pity, because it sure seemed like there was beautiful fruit in the 1989 Aldo Conterno Barolo. Wanting a nebbiolo, I scoured around and found a Luigi Einaudi, Barolo 'nei Cannubi', 1997. A manly wine, with brawny aromas, prune. Palate-wise, there is cherry, licorice, an orange rind aspect, but wood swoops in and detracts the experience for me. I doubt this will integrate in the wine any better than it already has, at 12 years. Perhaps a better match would have been a 1998 Macarini La Serra? B+

And what would dinner be without desert? In lieu of having actual desert, we open another of Steve's wines, the German Selbach-Oster, Bernkasteler Badstrube, riesling, Berenauslese, 2006 had a full botrytis nose and apricot paste. Palate coating apricot and peach pits, guava paste, pineapples and orange blossom honey with a lingering, botrytis spice filled finish. Nice! Good end to a good night. A/A-
 
Thanks for having me over, Mark. Dinner was great, and we had some very nice wines. The 2007 Vatan was beautiful, showing almost sweet on the nose and palate but with good acidity that peeked through on the finish. Can't wait to try it in a few years. I agree with Lou: the 2006 is very good, the 2007 is better.

The 1989 Aldo Conterno was clearly corked. The 1997 Einaudi showed some oak on the nose, along with orange peel and what I can only characterize as dark notes (I guess that corresponds to Mark's "brawny"). I thought the oak introduced a little harshness on the palate and shortened the finish a bit, but the flavors, which followed the nose, outweighed the wood by a good margin.

The 2006 Selbach Oster BA had a distinct saffron note in the nose. It was sweet and weighty on the palate, but the acidity balanced that well and made it easy to drink. The finish was very long. A thoroughly enjoyable wrap-up to the meal; after all the good food that we had, I don't think I could have managed to eat any dessert.
 
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