Misfortunate Alluvial Plains dwellers like me, Dear Reader, have long since been sussed. Awash in overoaked and underfruited Chardonnay; gulpers of Pinot Noir disguised as Syrah; status seekers all, we covet the almighty List.
Such is our lot, scurrying from new winery to new winery, searching for the new cult- signing on for the touted first release the less of a track record, the better. We collect mailing lists like others collect corks. Ahthe list.
There remains, however, one list that beckons, yet eludes; that whets the appetite, but leaves one hungry.
Screaming Eagle? Nah.
Harlan? Feh.
Sine Qua Non? Puh-leez.
BettyLus Cassoulet Dinner? Now yer talkin.
Preparations for the fte begin during the previous years crush the duck confit is cured, simmered and put down for aging to develop secondary flavors and complexity. The precise recipe and process is a closely guarded secret, but like all of BLs cooking for this event, no shortcuts are taken; no corners cut.
So, we fortunate few: JBL, noted California wine historian and wife Lynn; Hoke Nice Guy Harden and the lovely Roxie; Steve Edmunds, malcontent vintner and erstwhile troubadour; Mark Anisman, physician healer and charming wife Mariko; Lou Kessler, BLs permanent studmuffin and sommelier and I (least worthy of the bunch) gathered yet again on a fine early Spring evening to chat, sip and savor BLs cuisine.
As is the custom, we began with passed hors doeuvres and chilled whites. In order of consumption but not preference:
2006 Bodegas Gerardo Mendez Do Ferreiro Albario, Cepas Vellas (Rias Baixas DO, Spain):
from a block of vines some two hundred years old, this wine is fermented in stainless with native yeasts and aged on the lees for a year, with neer a stave in sight. Truly unique, with lovely floral aromatics - fascinatingly lush and full in the mouth with a complexity unlike any other example of this variety I have tasted. Quite wonderful.
2008 Groom Sauvignon Blanc (Adeliade Hills, South Australia, Australia):
leaning aromatically toward the grassy, herbal end of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum, yet eschewing the eucalyptoid and feline micturant elements, this is full in the mouth, yet lively impeccably clean and fun to drink.
2005 Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Grner Veltliner Rotes Tor, Smaragd (Wachau, Austria) and
2005 Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Singerriedel, Smaragd (Wachau, Austria):
Having learned to appreciate the Austrian versions of these varietals oops varieties - through the largesse of Elenbogen (who would show up at Ridges Day in the Vineyard with a cooler filled with ice chilled bottles of these bright beauties), I found myself missing the brisk acidity that usually makes these wines so refreshing. But then, Ive put down some 05 Muscadet, and theyre providing very interesting drinking. The acids have softened and integrated and the angles have evolved into curves, giving the wines an interesting textural personality.
In that context, these two wines are most enjoyable and I look forward to tasting more of these with a little bottle age.
2002 Chablis 1er Cru Monte de Tonnerre, William Fevre (Chablis, France):
In a word: this is one beautiful wine as harmonious and well integrated a white as I have ever tasted understated elegance combined with marvelous balance clean and polished memorable.
Along with this most interesting flight of whites were several passed appetizers. I particularly enjoyed the stuffed mushrooms filled with duxelles and flavored with roasted garlic and rosemary. Ordinarily, mushroom dishes cry out for tarragon, but the rosemary worked perfectly, with the woody notes of the herb complementing the earthy tones of the mushrooms.
Another excellent bite was the smoked salmon on wheat cracker the addition of lime zest to the crme fraiche elevated and lightened, while the single tarragon leaf garnish added not only visual appeal, but a welcome anise-like complexity. Its all in the details.
BettyLu orchestrates the seating arrangements as well as the dinner, so we took our assigned seats and sipped the first dinner wine in anticipation of the soup course:
1990 Bollinger Grande Anne Brut (Champagne, France):
I dont often have the opportunity to drink high-end Champagne and I dont mind telling you: I dont get Krug. (Yeah I know, I know what the frak does he know about fine wine? After all, he lives on the Alluvial Plains.) Well, I can tell you this: me likee.
From the fine bead and lingering mousse to the fascinating aromas of light toast, yeast, green apple and subtle baking spice, soft as silk entry, full yet gentle flavors and long clean finish, this wine is absolutely first class. The only thing that could improve upon it is the addition of BLs Shrimp Bisque.
This is no simple cream based soup this is the true classic, as near perfection as I have ever tasted. Every detail was represented: the shell flamb with cognac, a stock that included shrimp heads, proper reduction to yield depth and complexity of flavor, tomato paste for color and another flavor layer, with added pleasure from perfectly and gently poached shrimp.
My previous benchmark was a bisque served at Boulevard paired with The Bride part of a SQN tasting dinner several years ago, but this pairing separately and in combination was even better. Sublime.
Much has been written about BLs Cassoulet and its all true. Tasty confit of duck, lean and tender cubed pork shoulder, sausage: both Toulouse and Andouille all simmered in white beans enriched with stock and herbs. This is a most excellent example, with richness of flavor replacing the traditional high fat content. It paired beautifully, of course, with the:
1998 Cte-Rtie, Michel Ogier (Rhne, France):
Still a young wine at ten years of age, the initial aromatics are rather shy, but open a bit with swirlitude, yielding bright plum fruits, minerals and hints of Schwartzs smoked meat (but without the surly waitstaff). Texturally, the wine reminds me of an early Burgess cabernet narrowly focused, cool on the palate, with a clear beam of flavors that cruises right down the center of the palate. All this wine needs is a little bottle age Im sure the flavors and texture will broaden, bringing with them added aromatic complexity.
Not surprisingly, the two bottles were quickly consumed, prompting us to open:
1989 Port o Call New World Red - Authentic California Table Wine: 12.8% alc.
Graciously donated by Steve Edmunds, made from 50% second crop Zinfandel, 25% Charbono (both from Brandlin Ranch, Mt. Veeder) and 25% Mourvedre from Pato Vineyard, Contra Costa County. (see previous thread on Contra Costa Mataro.)
Clear and bright in the glass delicate red cherry aromas with hints of dust and earth light and cheery Bing cherry flavors on a delicate frame glide easily on the palate to a long and clean finish. I suspect the Mourvedre gave depth, the Charbono added the bright red fruit flavors, the Zin contributed the framework, and being second crop, the requisite acidity to hold it all together. The result was a real treat a thrilling older wine with charm and personality. Thank you so much, Steve.
BettyLus chocolate dessert was perfect rich but light, accompanied by a freshly whipped Chantilly.
With it we blind tasted our dessert wine decanted much earlier in the day. Light, clear and delicate on the palate, I guessed Banyuls and missed by several hundred miles.
1963 Taylors Vintage Porto (Douro, Portugal):
my only consolation was that nobody guessed the house or came close to the vintage. This was a rare treat for me and one I thoroughly enjoyed. While light in body, this was delicately balanced with a surprising complexity of flavors and was a true pleasure to drink and fine way to end a most splendid evening.
Such is our lot, scurrying from new winery to new winery, searching for the new cult- signing on for the touted first release the less of a track record, the better. We collect mailing lists like others collect corks. Ahthe list.
There remains, however, one list that beckons, yet eludes; that whets the appetite, but leaves one hungry.
Screaming Eagle? Nah.
Harlan? Feh.
Sine Qua Non? Puh-leez.
BettyLus Cassoulet Dinner? Now yer talkin.
Preparations for the fte begin during the previous years crush the duck confit is cured, simmered and put down for aging to develop secondary flavors and complexity. The precise recipe and process is a closely guarded secret, but like all of BLs cooking for this event, no shortcuts are taken; no corners cut.
So, we fortunate few: JBL, noted California wine historian and wife Lynn; Hoke Nice Guy Harden and the lovely Roxie; Steve Edmunds, malcontent vintner and erstwhile troubadour; Mark Anisman, physician healer and charming wife Mariko; Lou Kessler, BLs permanent studmuffin and sommelier and I (least worthy of the bunch) gathered yet again on a fine early Spring evening to chat, sip and savor BLs cuisine.
As is the custom, we began with passed hors doeuvres and chilled whites. In order of consumption but not preference:
2006 Bodegas Gerardo Mendez Do Ferreiro Albario, Cepas Vellas (Rias Baixas DO, Spain):
from a block of vines some two hundred years old, this wine is fermented in stainless with native yeasts and aged on the lees for a year, with neer a stave in sight. Truly unique, with lovely floral aromatics - fascinatingly lush and full in the mouth with a complexity unlike any other example of this variety I have tasted. Quite wonderful.
2008 Groom Sauvignon Blanc (Adeliade Hills, South Australia, Australia):
leaning aromatically toward the grassy, herbal end of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum, yet eschewing the eucalyptoid and feline micturant elements, this is full in the mouth, yet lively impeccably clean and fun to drink.
2005 Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Grner Veltliner Rotes Tor, Smaragd (Wachau, Austria) and
2005 Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Singerriedel, Smaragd (Wachau, Austria):
Having learned to appreciate the Austrian versions of these varietals oops varieties - through the largesse of Elenbogen (who would show up at Ridges Day in the Vineyard with a cooler filled with ice chilled bottles of these bright beauties), I found myself missing the brisk acidity that usually makes these wines so refreshing. But then, Ive put down some 05 Muscadet, and theyre providing very interesting drinking. The acids have softened and integrated and the angles have evolved into curves, giving the wines an interesting textural personality.
In that context, these two wines are most enjoyable and I look forward to tasting more of these with a little bottle age.
2002 Chablis 1er Cru Monte de Tonnerre, William Fevre (Chablis, France):
In a word: this is one beautiful wine as harmonious and well integrated a white as I have ever tasted understated elegance combined with marvelous balance clean and polished memorable.
Along with this most interesting flight of whites were several passed appetizers. I particularly enjoyed the stuffed mushrooms filled with duxelles and flavored with roasted garlic and rosemary. Ordinarily, mushroom dishes cry out for tarragon, but the rosemary worked perfectly, with the woody notes of the herb complementing the earthy tones of the mushrooms.
Another excellent bite was the smoked salmon on wheat cracker the addition of lime zest to the crme fraiche elevated and lightened, while the single tarragon leaf garnish added not only visual appeal, but a welcome anise-like complexity. Its all in the details.
BettyLu orchestrates the seating arrangements as well as the dinner, so we took our assigned seats and sipped the first dinner wine in anticipation of the soup course:
1990 Bollinger Grande Anne Brut (Champagne, France):
I dont often have the opportunity to drink high-end Champagne and I dont mind telling you: I dont get Krug. (Yeah I know, I know what the frak does he know about fine wine? After all, he lives on the Alluvial Plains.) Well, I can tell you this: me likee.
From the fine bead and lingering mousse to the fascinating aromas of light toast, yeast, green apple and subtle baking spice, soft as silk entry, full yet gentle flavors and long clean finish, this wine is absolutely first class. The only thing that could improve upon it is the addition of BLs Shrimp Bisque.
This is no simple cream based soup this is the true classic, as near perfection as I have ever tasted. Every detail was represented: the shell flamb with cognac, a stock that included shrimp heads, proper reduction to yield depth and complexity of flavor, tomato paste for color and another flavor layer, with added pleasure from perfectly and gently poached shrimp.
My previous benchmark was a bisque served at Boulevard paired with The Bride part of a SQN tasting dinner several years ago, but this pairing separately and in combination was even better. Sublime.
Much has been written about BLs Cassoulet and its all true. Tasty confit of duck, lean and tender cubed pork shoulder, sausage: both Toulouse and Andouille all simmered in white beans enriched with stock and herbs. This is a most excellent example, with richness of flavor replacing the traditional high fat content. It paired beautifully, of course, with the:
1998 Cte-Rtie, Michel Ogier (Rhne, France):
Still a young wine at ten years of age, the initial aromatics are rather shy, but open a bit with swirlitude, yielding bright plum fruits, minerals and hints of Schwartzs smoked meat (but without the surly waitstaff). Texturally, the wine reminds me of an early Burgess cabernet narrowly focused, cool on the palate, with a clear beam of flavors that cruises right down the center of the palate. All this wine needs is a little bottle age Im sure the flavors and texture will broaden, bringing with them added aromatic complexity.
Not surprisingly, the two bottles were quickly consumed, prompting us to open:
1989 Port o Call New World Red - Authentic California Table Wine: 12.8% alc.
Graciously donated by Steve Edmunds, made from 50% second crop Zinfandel, 25% Charbono (both from Brandlin Ranch, Mt. Veeder) and 25% Mourvedre from Pato Vineyard, Contra Costa County. (see previous thread on Contra Costa Mataro.)
Clear and bright in the glass delicate red cherry aromas with hints of dust and earth light and cheery Bing cherry flavors on a delicate frame glide easily on the palate to a long and clean finish. I suspect the Mourvedre gave depth, the Charbono added the bright red fruit flavors, the Zin contributed the framework, and being second crop, the requisite acidity to hold it all together. The result was a real treat a thrilling older wine with charm and personality. Thank you so much, Steve.
BettyLus chocolate dessert was perfect rich but light, accompanied by a freshly whipped Chantilly.
With it we blind tasted our dessert wine decanted much earlier in the day. Light, clear and delicate on the palate, I guessed Banyuls and missed by several hundred miles.
1963 Taylors Vintage Porto (Douro, Portugal):
my only consolation was that nobody guessed the house or came close to the vintage. This was a rare treat for me and one I thoroughly enjoyed. While light in body, this was delicately balanced with a surprising complexity of flavors and was a true pleasure to drink and fine way to end a most splendid evening.
