I dont exaggerate. On the drive towards an interior building at one famous Constantia winery, we cruise down a beautiful vineyard road, admiring the signs designating each block of grapes, while keeping an eye on the quarter-dozen machine-gun-toting, flak-jacketed, paramilitary soldiers that patrol it. Its a very disconcerting site. On the other hand, Ive never eaten on a military base before
continued here (of note: the best meal well have in South Africa). Tasting notes follow:
Constantia Uitsig 2005 Mthode Cap Classique Brut Blanc de Blancs (Constantia) Highly polished, and presenting itself with sophistication rather than ego. Clean, dry lemon forms a tight cylindrical core, around which are layers of delicate foil that dont obscure transparency. Finely-beaded and quite impressive. Still, what Id really love to do is revisit this after a few years, because its very primary. (11/08)
Kanonkop 1989 Pinotage (South Africa) The appellation seems to be as the bottle indicates, though of course under current law this would be from Stellenbosch. The cork is an absolute mess, takes an epic effort to remove in the tiny pieces into which it disintegrates, and by all rights should herald a damaged and prematurely decrepit bottle. But if so, theres no sign of it in my glass. The wine looks much younger than it is, and tastes so as well, which makes me wonder if pinotage is the South African version of petite siraheternally youthful and forever consumed too soon. Quite heavily-fruited still, in the form of a baked fruit compote without distinct elements, though the first stirrings of maturity appear as old, time-burnished furniture and a loamy mushroom quality. Very soft, yet far from unstructured, and seemingly not yet mature by its mouth-filling headiness. Very impressive. (11/08)
Klein Constantia 2004 Vin de Constance (Constantia) Pretty. Sweet, classic muscat with a bronzed quality. (Almost) very good, but the finish is abrupt. Doesnt live up to its legend. (11/08)
Asara 2003 Noble Late Harvest (Stellenbosch) Botrytized chenin blanc. Aromatically beautiful, lush, and creamy, but it falls away on the palate. About halfway to being a truly great dessert wine; as it is, its very pleasant but uninspired. (11/08)
Constantia Uitsig Noble Late Harvest (Constantia) Light and pretty, showing sweet apples still shaded by their leaves. The finish is of reasonable length, though theres not a great deal of complexity. (11/08)