Sperino and Sake

Bill Buitenhuys

Bill Buitenhuys
2005 Propriet Sperino Uvaggio (Costa della Sesia) Pre-fermentation blend of 65% nebbiolo, 20% vespolina, 15% croatina. A bit shrill at first but blossoms into a well balanced, deep wine with an hour of air. Sure there is lots of fruit, but its an interesting array of brandied dark cherries, pomegranate, and balsamic drizzled strawberries. Some usual nebbiolo traits of dried flowers, dried orange peel, and a hint of tar are all bolstered by well defined structure, boisterous acidity, and a core of minerality. Quite enjoyable but costly, but from what Im reading $30 is the new $9. From an old Lessona estate now owned by Paulo DeMarchi of Isole e Olena. (Imp: Guiliana Imports)

Manotsuru Onikoroshi Demon Slayer Tokubetsu Honjozo Sake (Sado Island, Niigata)
Nihonshu-do: over +15
Acidity: 1.2
Seimaibuai: 60% (40% milled)
Yeast: k701
Rice: Gohyakumangoku, Koshiibuki
Honjozo means that a small amount of distilled alcohol is added to the mash to help bring out some aromatics and flavor. Tokeubetsu means special, probably special as it is milled to ginjo level as opposed to just 70%.
This sake is light and cleansing. Very, very dry (at SMV > +15 it's off the charts dry) but nicely balanced with soft aromas of cooked rice and a whisper of cantelope. Fairly abrupt finish when cold but extends with a pleasing bitterness when warming. Suggest pairing it with light flavored sushi (veggie roll, yellowtail).

Taiyo Shuzu Nihonkoku Junmai Ginjo Sake (Sanpoku Town, Niigata)
Sake Rice : Gohyakumangoku
Alcohol Content : 15%
Nihonshu-Do (SMV) : +5
Seimaibuai : 60%
Acidity : 1.6
Amino Acid: 1.6
A very full and rich sake. Its so unctuous and hefty on the palate that it gives a hint of sweetness that isnt really there at all in the finish, being wiped clean by the acidity. Delicious flavor of cooked rice and umami with wonderful balance. This paired well with sauted scallop on wilted pea sprouts and should do well with oily or more robust fish or pork.
 
Sake Meter Value is an indication of residual sugar and is related to specific gravity as: SMV = [(1/SG)-1] * 1443

Sake producers consider SMV+3 to be neutral, with increasing numbers (usually up to +10) indicating increasing dryness.
 
Nice looking equation, Bill...and well put!

I've enjoyed some sake/pork combos lately too...seems a real good match with the right sakes.
 
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