Putnam Weekley
putnam
In 2007 Norberto and Silvia Rosario Garita opened a restaurant near the corner of Michigan and Junction in southwest Detroit. Originally from Puebla, Norberto spent his career in the kitchen of Italian restaurants in New York and Il Posto in Southfield.
El Barzon offers a range both of northern Italian and authentic Poblano (Puebla's demonym) dishes. Silvia, the chef most responsible for the Mexican dishes, is currently waiting down south for her visa.
It's useful to divide Mexican cuisine between north and south. North of Mexico City the food is oriented toward beef, a product well adapted to the Sierra Madre. In the south there is a greater emphasis on fresh fruits and vegetables and a polygusto range of seasonings.
Late last year Christopher Cook wrote a glowing article about El Barzon in Hour Magazine. Since then El Barzon has had to keep a waiting list for Friday and Saturday seating. Dinners range from $12 to about $18. Lunches cost less.
Corkage is not permitted in Michigan, but with the help of a well-connected wholesale representative we were able to make various interesting bottles appear on our table last Tuesday.
With chips, guacamole and salsa, a 2006 Bourgogne Sylvie Esmonin was unlike other 2006 Burgundies I've tasted, though I should mention that I don't recall one of them being from the Cote de Nuits. This was NOT sprawling with lazy, fat fruits, sweetness, and meaty forest floor sensations. It was organized and detailed and every layer of blue and purple flavor provided a transparent look at the next one. Minerals, violet perfumes and a very fit, clean physical profile characterized this delicious drink.
El Barzon offers a few wines on its list that I like to drink repeatedly, including Vina Godeval Godello and Antonelli Sagrantino. But I never fail to order a bottle of 2007 Gamay from Clos du Tue Boeuf. It is a little light to pair well with some of the heavy Italian sauces, carne asada and barbacoa de chivo, but it matches perfectly with just about everything else. It's tart and fresh and bursting with flower and fruit sensations. If you are 'tasting' rather than drinking this wine, then I think you might be doing it wrong.
A 2002 Savennieres from Domaine de Baumard was yellowing, fresh tasting and dry. Aromas and flavors of ripe yellow and orange honey and juices decorated moss and minerals. This went well with the delicately breaded and fried frito misto, calamari and shrimp.
My strozzapreti norcina was just slightly oversalted, but I was glad to hear that the only error on our table was with my dish. My companions were forming their first impression of this restaurant and I was already a convert.
frito misto
1979 Barbaresco Roagna was aging to the point of converging on flavors and aromas that might come from other appellations and other grape varieties, except, the tannins. These were Nebbiolo tannins. Little molecular points of balanced astringency gave shape to the melting woodland berry and stewed herb bouquet. Braised goat was a terrific pairing with it.
1998 Rioja Ganuza by contrast with all that preceded it was thick and flavored of oak, but with a little time to create its own space on our palates it revealed itself to be nicely integrated and just younger than its age might suggest.
Dessert wines included a 1974 Tokaji Azsu 4 Puttonyos which made me guess it to be something very old from Rutherglen, but then I wasn't expecting anything from Hungary. After learning its identity I thought, yeah, Tokaji Aszu is the king of dessert wines because it contains all of those articulated Muscat, black tea and honey flavors, but on the leanest, most elegant frame of them all. Something from Rutherglen would no doubt have been heavier.
Speaking of heavy, a 2005 Elixir du Tuf from Domaine de Belliviere was like drinking a fully sugar saturated solution infused with toasted golden Chenin Blanc seeds and mashed Chenin Blanc berries. It went well with flan.
I manage to keep busy. To read and see more - including a recent report on the Warren MI stop on the Kermit Lynch vignerons tour - just visit my blog. Just Google my full name.
El Barzon offers a range both of northern Italian and authentic Poblano (Puebla's demonym) dishes. Silvia, the chef most responsible for the Mexican dishes, is currently waiting down south for her visa.
Late last year Christopher Cook wrote a glowing article about El Barzon in Hour Magazine. Since then El Barzon has had to keep a waiting list for Friday and Saturday seating. Dinners range from $12 to about $18. Lunches cost less.
1979 Barbaresco Roagna was aging to the point of converging on flavors and aromas that might come from other appellations and other grape varieties, except, the tannins. These were Nebbiolo tannins. Little molecular points of balanced astringency gave shape to the melting woodland berry and stewed herb bouquet. Braised goat was a terrific pairing with it.
1998 Rioja Ganuza by contrast with all that preceded it was thick and flavored of oak, but with a little time to create its own space on our palates it revealed itself to be nicely integrated and just younger than its age might suggest.
Speaking of heavy, a 2005 Elixir du Tuf from Domaine de Belliviere was like drinking a fully sugar saturated solution infused with toasted golden Chenin Blanc seeds and mashed Chenin Blanc berries. It went well with flan.
I manage to keep busy. To read and see more - including a recent report on the Warren MI stop on the Kermit Lynch vignerons tour - just visit my blog. Just Google my full name.