An Unlikely Surprise from California

Chris Coad

Chris Coad
So i'm compiling early research for Boatloads of Cheap Crap XIV, and I spot something on Astor's website that makes me chuckle: Gallo 'Hearty Burgundy,' five bucks.

"Man," I think, "that may have been the first wine I ever tasted, there was always a jug of it in my parents' fridge, right next to the jug of 'Rhine Wine.'" So I order it up, it arrives, and I find myself actually liking it. "Coad," I says to meself, "your palate has finally jumped the shark."

So in order to save any last remaining shred of dignity I might have, I pack a bottle off and pour it blind for a couple of the internet's most renowned WIWPs last night, and, amazingly enough, they dug it too. Not knowing what it was, Sharon Bowman compared it favorably to a nice syrah-laden Cte-du-Rhne, and the irrepressible Bradley Kane said "Whatever it is, it's good--juicy, rich, balanced." I point out that you could get twenty-four bottles of this for the same money as you'd spend on the one bottle of Monte Bello we're also drinking.

So here's a sneak preview from the next Boatloads:

Gallo Family Vineyards Twin Valley 'Hearty Burgundy' California NV ($5). I saw this on sale at Astor and had to have it. I think Gallo's original 'Hearty Burgundy' and 'Rhine Wine' were the first red and white wines I ever tasted, in their omnipresent jugs in my parents' refrigerator. I also remember someone pointing out that the old-vine grapes that used to go into the old HB were now mostly being channeled into expensive boutique zinfandel bottlings. Hm, smells like cherry pie and blackberry, lightly cedar-spicy and fruit-punchy ripe. Tastes firm, compact and juicy. I have no idea of the varietal composition, but the feeling is kind of like a field blend like Marietta Cellars 'Lot XX' wines, sort of zinny/petite sirahish, except this has a little blackcurrant-candy thing that makes me think of cabernet sauvignon. But the plummy-spicy redfruit is dark and juicy, there's middling structure and a slightly matte texture with some quietly roughish tannins, all in a rather compact, correct frame. Simple, ripe, juicy California wine. Okay, I bought this as kind of a joke, but it's actually surprisingly pleasant, if utterly clean and shiny. Really, for five bucks it's an absolute steal. FAKE CORK! [Buy again? Absolutely.]

Get it while you can, Disorderlies! You heard it here first!
 
It was indeed a solidly made and fun wine, though I didn't say balanced. I actually said it was good, juicy, uncomplicated and low acid and reminded me of a unoaked or low oak field blend that California used to do so well. Honestly, I would have no problem sipping this at a cocktail party or having it with a burger.
 
Hang on, let me check my handy notebook I was urged to use. Wait a sec.

Hmmm... "Kane:whatever it is, it's good. juicy, rich, balanced, good picnic wine, field blend style, good with burger."

Sorry, I've got it in writing.
 
I've been a fan.

The wine served as a fine and dirt cheap table wine for years. This newer incarnation is still Zin driven, with some Cab and I think bits of Sangiovese, Malbec and Grenache among other things.

It's nothing special and cronically unhip, but it's decent wine at an affordable price, and frankly, better drinking than many California wines at 10 times the price.

Bravo for bringing it blind. Now I really miss joining you.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
Hang on, let me check my handy notebook I was urged to use. Wait a sec.

Hmmm... "Kane:whatever it is, it's good. juicy, rich, balanced, good picnic wine, field blend style, good with burger."

Sorry, I've got it in writing.

You apparently heard uncomplicated and low acid, as you heard everything else, but figured it was me and assumed that meant balanced.
 
originally posted by gregory dal piaz:
I've been a fan.

The wine served as a fine and dirt cheap table wine for years. This newer incarnation is still Zin driven, with some Cab and I think bits of Sangiovese, Malbec and Grenache among other things.

It's nothing special and cronically unhip, but it's decent wine at an affordable price, and frankly, better drinking than many California wines at 10 times the price.

Bravo for bringing it blind. Now I really miss joining you.

Back in the day, Gallo Hearty Burgundy was a fairly decent wine, too. As some wine personality quipped, "One part Dry Creek Zinfandel blended with one part Thompson Seedless." It was the politics of the Gallo Bros. that kept me away as much as anything else. Good to see a legend revivified.

Party on,
Mark Lipton
 
Chris is godlike in his understanding of his characters, Brad.

This was a fun twinkle of the unexpected, even if I obviously missed the idiom entirely.

CC, the only thing I disagree with is your description of "quietly roughish tannins." I thought it had very silky tannins.
 
Btw, said wine captured:

Gallo_Hearty_Burgundy.jpg
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Btw, said wine captured:

Is that a magnum for the $5 tariff? Or is it just an unusual (you can read that as "artistic" if it eliminates any implication that I'm questioning your photography skills) angle?

Cheers,

Dave
 
originally posted by Dave Nelson:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Btw, said wine captured:

Is that a magnum for the $5 tariff? Or is it just an unusual (you can read that as "artistic" if it eliminates any implication that I'm questioning your photography skills) angle?

Cheers,

Dave

It was no magnum, but the angle I chose. Of course, winegirl just made me remove the lovely picture of her with said bottle, so now you just have said bottle.

I have a cool picture of her with some magnums of Riesling taken at Dougherty;s a week ago, but I bet she won't let me post it. Besides, I still haven't written up those notes and Coad was on strike that evening.
 
Back in 1972, when i first got into the business, I noticed all sorts of otherwise-respectable wine folk lauding Gallo's Hearty Burgundy, and so I tried it. I could not bring myself to swallow it, it was so disgusting! Still the raves continued. So I tried it again, trying to figure out if there was something wrong with me. Same result. Mind you, I had purchased said "wine" in the 1/2 gallon size (each time), and poured out every drop of it. After three times I said to myself, enough is ENUF! I feel like Charlie Brown being invited to kick the football Lucy's holding at the point. Fuck it, I ain't bitin!
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Of course, winegirl just made me remove the lovely picture of her with said bottle, so now you just have said bottle.
You fell for Coad's winegirl imitation, eh?

You know he's got it in for you and that camera.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:

It was no magnum, but the angle I chose.

Thanks, Brad. I've not shopped the Gallo aisle at the grocery store in a while, and didn't recall how it was packaged.

Cheers,

Dave
 
One of the articles that Frank Prial used to re-write/recycle every year or so, for his NYT column, vaunted the surprising quality of Gallo Hearty Burgundy. Eric Asimov, for some reason, hasn't seen fit to carry on the tradition.

I'm sure Steve is right to call out the Emperor's new clothes, but me, I still drink the kit wine my Dad makes without complaining. (At least he uses juice now, rather than concentrate).
 
originally posted by Steve Edmunds:
I am very suspicious!Back in 1972, when i first got into the business, I noticed all sorts of otherwise-respectable wine folk lauding Gallo's Hearty Burgundy, and so I tried it. I could not bring myself to swallow it, it was so disgusting! Still the raves continued. So I tried it again, trying to figure out if there was something wrong with me. Same result. Mind you, I had purchased said "wine" in the 1/2 gallon size (each time), and poured out every drop of it. After three times I said to myself, enough is ENUF! I feel like Charlie Brown being invited to kick the football Lucy's holding at the point. Fuck it, I ain't bitin!

You must be one of those folks with a pronounced sensitivity to Thompson Seedless, Steve. As I'm still reading Christy Campbell's "Phylloxera" I can't help recalling the reactions of several French tasters to various wines made from American grapes (V. labrusca and V. riparia, mostly).

Hey, but you had the exact same reaction to that Biale Zin I brought to Rahsaan's farewell jeebus! Admit it: you just don't like Zin, Steve (insert a whole raft of those smilie winkie things)

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:

You must be one of those folks with a pronounced sensitivity to Thompson Seedless, Steve. As I'm still reading Christy Campbell's "Phylloxera" I can't help recalling the reactions of several French tasters to various wines made from American grapes (V. labrusca and V. riparia, mostly).

Hey, but you had the exact same reaction to that Biale Zin I brought to Rahsaan's farewell jeebus! Admit it: you just don't like Zin, Steve (insert a whole raft of those smilie winkie things)

Mark Lipton

Hey, he used to make a very nice Zin. Of course, maybe that explains why he stopped...
 
While many take just exception with Gallo politics, back before the advent of Zinfandel as a fashionable grape - in the 50s and 60s - Gallo helped keep a number of Napa family growers alive by guaranteeing purchase of the entire Napa Valley Cooperative production.

Alot of great juice went into Gallo's blends, and they certainly didn't pay very well, but it was far better than having those old vines ripped and planted to more profitable varieties.
 
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