Fauterie Cornas?

M

mark meyer

mark meyer
Thru a mutual friend we met Sylvain Bernard of Domaine Fauterie in Jan and spent a few great evenings with him-but I am not familiar with his wines. Claude or others who have drunk his wines can you fill me in on what you think? He said Beaune was his main US importer so I guess they are most available on the WC? We are going to visit him at the cave in Sept so would like any info that disorderlies have available. TIA.

mark meyer
 
Sylvain Bernard is a really nice guy. The Cornas is in the second division of Cornas, but the first division (Clape, Allemand, formerly N. Verset, and maybe 1-3 others) is an extremely high standard, so that is not meant to be a negative remark by any means. Typical Cornas smokiness for these wines. Additionally, I think his prices are not high -- a relief when one sees where some Cornas prices have gone in recent years. Some of his vines are very old (like 1900) and very well-sourced (rented from Guy de Barjac).

The top level Saint-Joseph (red) and Saint-Pray can be very good (and St-Pray is an appellation you should discover on this trip, at least in the restaurants), but the cuves lower down from those appellations are correct but nothing exciting.

Surprising and sad that Beaune Imports is his major US importer, because one rarely sees the wines here; i.e., I doubt that there is very much sent to the U.S.
 
Not to sidetrack things, but I really like V. Paris's Granit 30. I just had the '06 recently. Nice again, in a clean, pure, somewhat modernist (?) way.

I definitely agree with Claude on Allemand and Verset being the two guys in the top tier.
 
originally posted by Bwood:
Not to sidetrack things, but I really like V. Paris's Granit 30. I just had the '06 recently. Nice again, in a clean, pure, somewhat modernist (?) way.
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Agreed, Vincent is doing a very good job and he has some good vineyards, too -- I buy them for my own cellar. I agree also that the wines have somewhat of a modernist bent, but not so much that the Cornas character is lost. And to tell the truth, almost everyone in Cornas seems to be moving at least a little in that rounder tannin style (hlas!).

The Granit 30 is the younger vine/younger drinking wine -- the Granit 60 is the wine to age.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Bwood:
Not to sidetrack things, but I really like V. Paris's Granit 30. I just had the '06 recently. Nice again, in a clean, pure, somewhat modernist (?) way.
Click to expand...

Agreed, Vincent is doing a very good job and he has some good vineyards, too -- I buy them for my own cellar. I agree also that the wines have somewhat of a modernist bent, but not so much that the Cornas character is lost. And to tell the truth, almost everyone in Cornas seems to be moving at least a little in that rounder tannin style (hlas!).

The Granit 30 is the younger vine/younger drinking wine -- the Granit 60 is the wine to age.
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Yeah, I like both but have been drinking much more of the "30" since, after all, it is the early drinker. I loved the '02 (ultimate early drinker). The '06 is really good, I think. The "60s" I've tried have seemed promising.
 
Claude,

Thanks for the info. He is a very interesting guy-got started with the Chave's and was telling some JL stories-started basically as a cellarhand they way he tells it and eventually was able to get some vines and start making some wine.

We are actually in St Remy for a week and making a daytrip up to see Sylvain-but will look to try some St Peray. When I get back to the states I think I will have to pull out some 80's Verset-is Noel still alive and just retired or did he die?

mark meyer
 
I definitely agree with Claude on Allemand and Verset being the two guys in the top tier.[/quote]

So John you don't like Clape?
 
originally posted by mark meyer:
I definitely agree with Claude on Allemand and Verset being the two guys in the top tier.
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So John you don't like Clape?
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Nah, too strong a statement. It's more like I just enjoy several other producers much more. (I just enjoy gigging Claude a little on that on that, and he enjoys gigging me and others on the same topic.)

And back to Vincent Paris, for a second, I feel bad slapping "modernist" as a label on him. You could just as easily call Allemand that, I suppose. Cornas is just such an interesting AOC these days, and "modern" or "traditional" don't seem to me be the right starting points for dividing up the stylistic differences of the producers.
 
originally posted by mark meyer:
We are actually in St Remy for a weekmark meyer
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St-Rmy de Provence? I love it there. Don't miss the Restaurant Mistral Gourmand (http://www.resto.fr/restaurant/saint_rémy_de_provence/mistral_gourmand/32491) just off the Priphrique on the road leading out to Glanum and the Alpilles -- the chef changes the menu every day to accommodate what he buys in the market and there are lots of interesting wines on the list. Also, Jol Durand for chcolates there. There's so much else . . .
 
Claude,

I think the husband and wife team at Mistral Gourmand sold-we were in St Remy in May of 08 and were told it was different owners-the menu had curries on it. One of our all time best meals in France was there in 04 or 05. We also love Cafe Paradou for lunch and are going to try to go for the Grand Aioli on Fri. Love the Durand chocolates. Also across the ring road from Durand is an olive oil tasting facility-where you can taste most of the locally made olive oils. We stay in a rented place so tend to go to the markets and cook at home more now rather than going to the St Remy restaurants-I did see one got a Michelin star this yr.

Have you been to Milan cave to the east of town. One of the local wine shop guys was high on the wines. We tend to like the Mas Gourgonnier and Mas de la Dame wines but plan on visiting Milan in Sept.

mark
 
Mark,

How sad about Mistral Gourmand. Has the chef relocated elsewhere or is just gone? Don't know the Milan cave, did enjoy the olive shop. What a wonderful place to be, and I look forward to going back -- have a great time!
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Bwood:


I definitely agree with Claude on Allemand and Verset being the two guys in the top tier.
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Ditto ;)
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See, if we're comparing trading cards here, I'll trade you my Verset for your Clape. I've never had a convincing Verset - maybe I haven't tried enough. I'll stick with Allemand and Clape, and throw in Juge. He may be "retired" and only farming a small, flatter area that's practically St. Peray - but he still makes some darn fine Cornas, at least he did through 2001. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten to try the 2004 or 2005, etc. and I did not like the 2002.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Don't forget Voge.
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Agreed. I brought a '00 Voge VV to Toledo, but there was such an overwhelming array of Syrahs already opened that I decided to wait for another occasion to open it.

Mark Lipton
 
Referring to Nol Verset, my understanding is the 2005 is the last year that he made any wine, and I think 2000 is the last year that he made a substantial quantity of awine.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Referring to Nol Verset, my understanding is the 2005 is the last year that he made any wine, and I think 2000 is the last year that he made a substantial quantity of awine.
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There was some mysterious 2006 floating around. I can't claim to have actually seen or tasted it though. Just rumors.
 
originally posted by mlawton:
I'll stick with Allemand and Clape, and throw in Juge. He may be "retired" and only farming a small, flatter area that's practically St. Peray - but he still makes some darn fine Cornas, at least he did through 2001. Unfortunately, I haven't gotten to try the 2004 or 2005, etc. and I did not like the 2002.
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Both of the Juge 1999's are very fine grained and on the feminine side of the AOC - meaning, I enjoyed them immensely even though they are not immense.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Referring to Nol Verset, my understanding is the 2005 is the last year that he made any wine, and I think 2000 is the last year that he made a substantial quantity of wine.
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I knew Marc Hanes was up to no good when he sold me that 2006.
 
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