TN: "Tant qu'il y a de la vigne il y a de l'espoir"

I wish I had had more time to commit to this, but I was a bit harried for time, since I needed to get back to the hinterlands before the bewitching hour of midnight and needed to do some errands before heading out of Gotham. Still, a nice tasting and seeing a familiar name made it fun. Attenuated impressions follow...

Luneau-Papin ((David Lillie pouring))
2007 Muscadet "Les Pierres Blanches" - minerally but in a silty way, not a rocky way
2005 Muscadet "L d'Or" - good shape, good snap of flavor at the end
2002 Muscadet "Clos des Noelles" - definitely richer but not better
1997 Muscadet "L d'Or" - too soft

Missed the 2007, but this lineup was, as expected, strong. I'd agree with Jeff regarding the Noelles: there was a richness here, but not necessarily 'better' than the others. I thought the 2005 L d'Or a bit soft, but then I am comparing it to their 2002. The 1997 was kicking pretty well, for a warm year.

Dom. le Briseau
2007 "You Are So Nice" - 75% cot, 25% gamay; blah (I seem to like CRB's cot and nobody else's)

Missed most of these because the packaging looked like 'critter label wines', which I avoid, but did get a pour of this one which was okay if the wine is priced around $8-12.

Franck Peillot
NV Bugey Montagnieu Brut Methode Traditionelle - blah
2007 Roussette de Bugey Montagnieu Altesse - MarkS called it a combination of muscadet and viognier
2006 Bugey Mondeuse - blah

Like these better than Jeff did. The sparkler was alright, but nothing special.
My first altesse was an interesting experience, and had that mountain air quality to it. The Mondeuse I bought a bottle of. It should be interesting in 2-4 years.

Dom. Desvignes
2007 Morgon Javernieres - good

Yummy! But was this the 2007 or the 2006 (bottle on the table - and what they had for sale- was the 2006)? A very rich Beaujolais that needs a year or two, imho.

Eric Texier
2005 Chateuneuf-du-Pape Blanc - good
2006 CdR Rouge - 85% grenache, 15% white grapes; nice 'drink now' wine
2006 CdR Village "Chusclan" - good
2006 Saint-Gervais VV des Cadinieres - good
2006 Brezeme "Dom. Pergault" VV - wow; violets and dirt, lengthy finish

The CDP blanc was good, but it seemed softer and oakier than a 2001 I had a couple of years ago. The regular rouge was ok, just ok. The next 2 wines had a very similar feel (grenache component?) to them to me, and difficult to distinguish. I'd rather see these blended instead of contributing to 'appelation creep'. The Brezeme was the best in the lineup. All syrah, according to Eric. Robust, but fresh, and needs time.

Campi di Fonterenza
2006 IGT Sangiovese - astringent
2006 Rosso di Montalcino - aged to the minimum standard for brunello; clearly a better selection

I passed on the Bera wines, because I hardly ever drink moscato anymore.
These Fonterenza wines seemed a bit New Worldish to me and didn't seem to fit in a Dressner portfolio. Both seemed sexy to me, with the positive & negative connotations that go along with it.

Montesecondo
2006 Chianti Classico - made in stainless; very pretty wine
2005 IGT "Rosso del Rospo" - eh
2005 IGT "Le Petit Verre d'Ot" - tannic and grippy, unappealing

Missed the Chianti, didn't care for the Rosso, and really enjoyed the Petit verre as one of my favorites of the day. It came across as a smoother Madiran, one that had a Bordeaux polish to it. Unfortunately I didn't bring one home, but would have liked to to see what this becomes in 10 years. The owner here was quite genuine and sincere.

Occhipinti
2008 Rosso Vittoria "SP68" - strawberries but weirdly so
2006 IGT "Il Frappato" - wow, this is the substance those strawberries were looking for
2007 IGT "Siccagno" - eh

What can I say? I was bringing back a corked frappato, so I had a bias against it. That being said, these wines remind me of Puzelat wines, in that they seem poised between natural(good) and unclean(bad) winemaking. I could almost see what they are aiming for, but they seem a bit too trendy for me. The Rosso seemed a little off in a winemaking way, and was light. The frappato (correct year?) seemed to have weaker characteristics than the corked bottle I was bringing back, which had beautiful fruit (yes, strawberries!) underneath the cork taint. The Nero d'Avola was standard issue, soft plum and light cherry. Not a lot of concentration here, but you could tell it was minimally made. I bought one to try in a couple of years because I'd like to see what age does to it.

Guttarolo
2007 Gioia del Colle Primitivo - steel version; eh
2005 Gioia del Colle Primitivo "Antello delle Muge" - barrique version; too marked by oak

He needs to tone down the oak. Perhaps he should age the wines in used Baroli foudres to smooth things out?

Roagna
2007 Dolcetto d'Alba - eh
2004 Barolo "Vigna Rionda" - oh my, this is going to be good in 20 years
2001 Barolo "La Rocca e la Pira" - all roses, just a smidge of tar

The dolcetto was 'correct'. The 2004 was, surprisingly, soft and drinkable already to my taste. I liked the 2001 better, perhaps for the nose, but seemed on the oaky side to me, perhaps that was the tar component Jeff tasted.

Miscellaneous
2006 Mayr Nusserhof, Tyroldego - blah
2006 Cappellano, Dolcetto d'Alba "Gabutti" - blah

The tyroldego was kinda like many wines from the Alto Adige area: soft, plummy fruit, but not a lot of bite to it. Many of these taste so similar to me. But this was well made.

The dolcetto I wanted to like, but it was just ok.

Mauro Vergano
NV Americano "Vino Aromatizzato" - served with a spritz and a bit of orange rind; a nice mixer
NV Vino Chinato "Luli" - based on moscato d'asti, not barolo; sweet on entry and then the bitterness of the quinine persists beyond it

Save the weird table for last. I passed on the Aromatizzo, after seeing the complicated recipe for making it unfold (sharp knives, orange rinds, and drinking do not mix!), but the chinato was funky in a 'boy, that's different' kind of way. This is a white chinato, so not the traditional red one, but with similar herbs used. This almost had a men's hair/face tonic quality about it.
Weird, but interesting. Not sure what opportunity I'd use to open one up, though.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by MarkS: Not sure what opportunity I'd use to open one up, though.

Late afternoon?

Perhaps, but the concoction of flavors was so unusual. Reminded me of Chartreuse.

For what it's worth, I don't entertain enough or drink enough aperitifs to make it worthwhile purchasing such items either. But they are tasty.
 
Aperitivo Americano is a wonderful drink on a Saturday summer afternoon. I've even served it with great success to the PBR crowd.
 
originally posted by slaton:
Aperitivo Americano is a wonderful drink on a Saturday summer afternoon. I've even served it with great success to the PBR crowd.

On the contrary, it makes me want to don an ascot. It was quite the palate cleanser after all the nebbiolo.
 
I guess I'm a low-brow at heart.

Whenever I read that T-shirt motto I hear an old Budweiser commercial.

I know it differs but that's what rattles around in my head when I read it...
 
Here are some pics from the event for your viewing pleasure.:

The scene at Chambers before the real crowd.

Joe and Don Rice.

Francois Pinon & Pierre Luneau.

Pierre-Marie Luneau.

Linus Kessler & Jules Dressner.

Michael Wheeler.

Franck Peillot & Christian Chassaurd.

Linus Kessler, Eric Texier & Claude-Emanuelle Desvignes.

Francesca Padovani & Alessandra Bera.

Arianna Ochipinti, .

Silvio Messana and I don't know who. His son?

Luca Roagna, I don't know who and Cristiano Guttarolo.

Seth Hill at Silvio Messana's table.
 
The Nero d'Avola was standard issue, soft plum and light cherry. Not a lot of concentration here, but you could tell it was minimally made. I bought one to try in a couple of years because I'd like to see what age does to it.

I don't think the Occhipinti Nero d'Avola is standard issue at all. Far from it, actually. The wine is perfumed inside the texture of the wine, on the palate. In my experience that is in no way standard issue. I am speaking of the '06 Siccagno.

Vergano "Luli" doesn't taste anything at all like Chartreuse. Of either color, VEP or non-VEP.
 
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