Embarrassment of riches, pt. 1

[slaton]

I believe this is a complete list of wines brought to our little get-together this past weekend in San Francisco. Can't do the same for the food you guys brought but it was equally over the top great. I think Cory and Emily must have cleaned out Boccalone (local salumi/charcuterie shop) on our behalf.

Not surprisingly I don't have much in the way of notes but I'm sure some of you do, hopefully this list will jog some foggy memories from you all.

Whites

2002 Huet Vouvray Petillant - wonderful as (nearly) always, tried a 4 hr decant this time and thought it worked well. Hard to imagine a wine I'm happier drinking.

NV Breton Vouvray Petillant La Dilettante - not a good showing for this wine. Shrill. Have enjoyed it more before.

NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Brut Cuvee Sainte-Anne - good, but I'd rather drink Huet Petillant

2005 Domaine de la Ppire Muscadet Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - in a good place

2006 Avanguardia Cristallo Sierra Foothills - the first of Timko's oddball Sierra Foothills wines, this was 100% rkatsiteli (say that fast). Lactic nose, tactile but unexpressive palate, didn't care for it

1983 Rene Schmidt Alsace Gewurztraminer Cuvee Particuliere Reserve - past peak but still quite alive; great gewurz texture but as usual I found the alcohol aggressive

1992 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Rotenberg Vendange Tardive - needed more acid

2002 William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros - first tragedy of the day, this was poxed.

2005 Domaine Ostertag Fronholz Muscat

2006 De Moor Chablis Rosette - good but a little big and fleshy, perhaps typical for the vintage

2005 Domaine Aux Moines Savennieres Roche Aux Moines - have had mixed experiences with this producer but this was very good, alcohol slightly aggressive though

2005 Burgerspital Zum HL Geist Wurzburger Stein Riesling Kabinett Trocken Franken - really interesting, exotic, rich nose

2004 Francois Cotat Sancerre Le Culs de Beaujeau - very nice, still greenish and reassuringly young. No need to hurry on these.

Orange

2006 C de Noci Notte di Luna (Vino da Tavola) - 60% moscato giallo, 40% malvasia aromatica, really fascinating and definitely the best wine I've drank yet from here.

2004 La Stoppa Ageno Emilia IGT - still the most tannic white/orange wine I've ever drank, love the soft delicate red fruit aromas.

Red

2002 The Eyrie Vineyards Willamette Pinot Noir - sorry Arjun but I don't remember tasting it

1977 Lytton Springs Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley - forgot to taste this but from the nose it seemed to still be quite alive, very wood-spicy and red-fruited

2001 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny - good but seems to be maturing faster than I'd have expected given past experiences with this wine. Probably shouldn't be surprised; other Loire reds from this vintage don't seem to be holding up

1990 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses - second tragedy of the day, I thought this was mildly corked though some disagreed

2000 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir New Zealand - didn't taste but Larry said it was shot

2000 San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT (Trentino) - good bottle, great wine. One of my favorite wines made from these grapes.

NV Avanguardia Amatore Sierra Foothills - the second of Steve's curiosities. Red nonvintage blend of corvina, gamay noir, negrara, rondinella.

2006 Scea Poupat et fils Coteaux du Giennois Le Trocadero - memory fail.

2005 Domaine Comte Peraldi Ajaccio (Corsica) - really enjoyed this

2005 Domaine de la Croix d'Or Saint-Pourcain - very fun wine. Fresh cranberry, roasted capsicum nose, similar palate with black pepper and surprising richness.

(no vintage on label) Domaine de la Tournelle l'Uva Arbosiana Arbois - classic poulsard nose of celery stick, powdery tart red fruit, spice, super juicy, tart acid, I liked this

2001 Schwarz Zweigelt 'W' Red Table Wine - I think Larry poured me this but I'm drawing a blank

2007 La Clarine Farms Mourvedre Cedarville Vineyard - ditto

Sweet

1989 Weingut Dr. Burklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Konigswingert Gewurztraminer Auslese - still rather young and seemed to be drinking well

1988 Goldenrebe Trockenbeerenauslese Bereich Mittelhaardt (Pfalz)

Consumed later at Terroir, to my considerable detriment

2004 Belliviere Le Rouge-Gorge - seemingly unchanged in two years. Still an off the charts high-toned agave/tequila nose, white pepper, etc and an almost muscular palate. Thanks Steve.

1995 Edmunds St John California Syrah - didn't care for this, but I was in no shape at this point say more than that.

 

[Rahsaan]

originally posted by slaton: 2005 Domaine Aux Moines Savennieres Roche Aux Moines - have had mixed experiences with this producer but this was very good, alcohol slighlty aggressive...

Haven't they joined the More Ripeness Parade in recent years for a current style that is much different from the 1990s.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by slaton:
Whites

2002 Huet Vouvray Petillant - wonderful as (nearly) always, tried a 4 hr decant this time and thought it worked well. Hard to imagine a wine I'm happier drinking.

Excellent.

NV Breton Vouvray Petillant La Dilettante - not a good showing for this wine. Shrill. Have enjoyed it more before.

Doesn't travel well.

NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Brut Cuvee Sainte-Anne - good, but I'd rather drink Huet Petillant

Enjoyed, but not distinctive enough to make me seek it out in particular. Good wine from a producer though I think does consistently good work.

2005 Domaine de la Ppire Muscadet Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - in a good place

As if you needed to ask. Destined to be a legendary Briords, IMO.

2006 Avanguardia Cristallo Sierra Foothills - the first of Timko's oddball Sierra Foothills wines, this was 100% rkatsiteli (say that fast). Lactic nose, tactile but unexpressive palate, didn't care for it

Nah.

1983 Rene Schmidt Alsace Gewurztraminer Cuvee Particuliere Reserve - past peak but still quite alive; great gewurz texture but as usual I found the alcohol aggressive

I actually think there was something not quite right. A bit musty. In any case, not my cup of tea.

1992 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Rotenberg Vendange Tardive - needed more acid

What slaton forgets is that this is Rotenberg and is always on the lower side of the acid spectrum. As it was, I thought it showed as it should. VT Rotenberg pinot gris always has an interesting caramel thing going on that I like. You have to take it for waht it is, not what you wan tit to be.

2005 Domaine Ostertag Fronholz Muscat

I loved this.

2006 De Moor Chablis Rosette - good but a little big and fleshy, perhaps typical for the vintage

Actually, I think the de Moor wines tend to be a little loose. Again, a wine you need to take for what it is, you shouldn't be putting Dauvissat expectations on it.

2005 Domaine Aux Moines Savennieres Roche Aux Moines - have had mixed experiences with this producer but this was very good, alcohol slightly aggressive though

Eh.

2005 Burgerspital Zum HL Geist Wurzburger Stein Riesling Kabinett Trocken Franken - really interesting, exotic, rich nose

2004 Francois Cotat Sancerre Le Culs de Beaujeau - very nice, still greenish and reassuringly young. No need to hurry on these.

I thought this showed well. I didn't like it nearly as much as slaton or Luc. Showed a bit hot to me. I'd actually drink sooner that slaton says because I'm not sure I trust the balance. Still good though.

Orange

2006 C de Noci Notte di Luna (Vino da Tavola) - 60% moscato giallo, 40% malvasia aromatica, really fascinating and definitely the best wine I've drank yet from here.

I can't get enough of this. Love it.

2004 La Stoppa Ageno Emilia IGT - still the most tannic white/orange wine I've ever drank, love the soft delicate red fruit aromas.

Liked this quite a bit too. Nice aggressiveness.

Red

2002 The Eyrie Vineyards Willamette Pinot Noir - sorry Arjun but I don't remember tasting it

I liked this as well. Reminds me of how much I loved the old Eyrie. Dave Lett, you are not forgotten.

Fuck you, Arjun!

1977 Lytton Springs Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley - forgot to taste this but from the nose it seemed to still be quite alive, very wood-spicy and red-fruited

Cool wine. Strangely, it seemed to me that the carignan and petit sirah had more to say than the zinfandel. It's always a treat to get to taste these glories of CA past.

2001 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny - good but seems to be maturing faster than I'd have expected given past experiences with this wine. Probably shouldn't be surprised; other Loire reds from this vintage don't seem to be holding up

Showed very well.

1990 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses - second tragedy of the day, I thought this was mildly corked though some disagreed

I just think it was musty and unclean rather than corked. Not a huge fan to begin with.

2000 San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT (Trentino) - good bottle, great wine. One of my favorite wines made from these grapes.

I think slayer is trying too hard. This was as good a bottle of this as I've had and I liked it a lot.

2006 Scea Poupat et fils Coteaux du Giennois Le Trocadero - memory fail.

According to Richard, this is gamay. I thought it was delicious.

2005 Domaine Comte Peraldi Ajaccio (Corsica) - really enjoyed this

I was in the minority, but I didn't really care for this. Had a manufactured profile and mouthfeel to me. Didn't get any there, there.

(no vintage on label) Domaine de la Tournelle l'Uva Abrosiana Arbois - classic poulsard nose of celery stick, powdery tart red fruit, spice, super juicy, tart acid, I liked this

Good, but I was worried about it's health as it opened. A wine that may have an infection or two.

Consumed later at Terroir, to my considerable detriment

2004 Belliviere Le Rouge-Gorge - seemingly unchanged in two years. Still an off the charts high-toned agave/tequila nose, white pepper, etc and an almost muscular palate. Thanks Steve.

I'm no fan of this wine and this bottle didn't change my mind. The 2002 (and earlier, but especially 2002) is my benchmark for pineau d'aunis. I drank my last bottle recently and lashed myself like a Catholic for not having bought more. 2004-2006 have left me bewildered.

Thanks to slayer for putting this together. Nice to meet those I hadn't met before.

The real question is whether Cory and Emily found their hotel after stumbling out of terroir...

 

[MarkS]

2004 Belliviere Le Rouge-Gorge - seemingly unchanged in two years. Still an off the charts high-toned agave/tequila nose, white pepper, etc and an almost muscular palate. Thanks Steve.

I'm no fan of this wine and this bottle didn't change my mind. The 2002 (and earlier, but especially 2002) is my benchmark for pineau d'aunis. I drank my last bottle recently and lashed myself like a Catholic for not having bought more. 2004-2006 have left me bewildered.
[/quote]

Good to know (as I've only experienced the 02, so this is my 'reference' bottle)

 

[Cory Cartwright]

Thanks to Slaton for the party, and thanks everyone for the great selection of wines. It was nice meeting everyone.

We found the hotel ok (not sure how). Emily had been up since 5 in the morning and had to take a seismic engineering certification exam before we even had anything to drink so kudos to her for even making it out afterwards.

I don't disagree with you on the Poulsard. Of the three bottles I've had not one has tasted like the other two, but it's interesting enough to at least try.

The '77 Lytton Springs was an eye opener, and it makes you realize why anybody ever bothered with Zinfandel. Red wine of the night.

Sauvignon blanc is a shitty grape. I like it with food on occasion, but I can't stand to just drink it, even in it's best forms, like the Cotat.

The Notte di Luna is amazing, enough said.

The Giennois as far as I remember is gamay and perhaps a bit of pinot. Really nice structured, easy drinking wine.

The Ageno was the second most tannic white wine I've ever drunk. Definitely needs a plate of something.

The San Leonardo was a surprise. Really enjoyed this.

The De Moor was exactly as expected and quite good, but I enjoy Chablis more than others.

The Breton needs to be drunk quickly and cold in my experience, for breakfast.

The Ostertag was a shot in the dark, really. I only mildly liked it when I picked it up, but it has definitely put on some better qualities. Wish I had more.

The '02 Chablis was the first bottle of premox wine i've experienced. Sad, but informative for you glass-half-full types.

I enjoyed the Zind Humbrecht and the Dr. Burklin quite a bit. Can't remember much more.

I have a few bottles of Domaine Aux Moines Savennieres Roche Aux Moines 1994 I wish I brought for a counterpoint to the one poured, which didn't really impress me. A bit flabby.

The Schwarz Zweigelt failed for me. I can't get into wines like this.

Steve's pair of wines were interesting to think about, but I couldn't really see drinking them.

I love the '04 Belliviere but I can see where you might not, but it really demands food to make anything of it.

The Clos Rougeard was really nice.

Whatever else I tried is lost to memory.

Also Thanks to Scott and VLM (who is just as foul mouthed in real life as his persona suggests) for the late night Huet. I hope everyone who was in town got a chance to try the NPA Chard, as it won't be traveling.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Cory Cartwright:
We found the hotel ok (not sure how). Emily had been up since 5 in the morning and had to take a seismic engineering certification exam before we even had anything to drink so kudos to her for even making it out afterwards.

Glad you made it. Hey, no doubt Emily is a trooper. She did have the bobble-head going by the end of the night...

Sauvignon blanc is a shitty grape. I like it with food on occasion, but I can't stand to just drink it, even in it's best forms, like the Cotat.

For the most part, I agree. I found this in my drinkable range, certainly not purchase range. That's almost exclusively Vatan territory.

The Breton needs to be drunk quickly and cold in my experience, for breakfast.

And preferably in France.

The Ostertag was a shot in the dark, really. I only mildly liked it when I picked it up, but it has definitely put on some better qualities. Wish I had more.

Looked for a bottle at Terroir, none to be had.

Also Thanks to Scott and VLM (who is just as foul mouthed in real life as his persona suggests) for the late night Huet.

Yeah, but much nicer than advertised.

 

[Cory Cartwright]

Yes, certainly much nicer. I had given up ever drinking more Notte di Luna. I may be able to get more Ostertag, will inform if you're interested.

 

[slaton]

I've seen the Ostertag at Kermit's shop, sitting all forlorn and unwanted-like in the corner. For months at a time.

 

[Cory Cartwright]

Em says "bobble-head" is the perfect descriptor for her on saturday.

 

[slaton]

originally posted by Cory Cartwright:
I don't disagree with you on the Poulsard. Of the three bottles I've had not one has tasted like the other two, but it's interesting enough to at least try.

Actually I didn't really get around to tasting this until yesterday, but it was fine then.

Sauvignon blanc is a shitty grape.

As vlm knows I don't disagree with this statement. It can make some bracing, high acid wines that I'm willing to drink in warm weather (particularly with a little semillon in there), but outside a couple of wines from Chavignol I don't buy SB. I think we're in the minority, though.

The Ageno was the second most tannic white wine I've ever drunk. Definitely needs a plate of something.

Can't leave that hanging. The first?

The San Leonardo was a surprise. Really enjoyed this.

Glad to hear. It's all part of my plan to get more people drinking this wine.

The '02 Chablis was the first bottle of premox wine i've experienced. Sad, but informative for you glass-half-full types.

Felt bad for Eric as he was pretty excited to drink this. As was I.

I have a few bottles of Domaine Aux Moines Savennieres Roche Aux Moines 1994 I wish I brought for a counterpoint to the one poured, which didn't really impress me. A bit flabby.

To acknowledge Rahsaan's point as well, yes the 1994 is very different than these 2005s. Lean, austere, searingly dry with honeycomb and applesauce notes and a pungent, dirty minerality. I'd guess it was pretty undrinkable at age 3-4.

Who is the poster boy for modern Savennieres, anyway? Serious question. I thought in Savennieres 'modern' referred to sooner-drinking, ripe, slightly oxidative styles like Jo Pithon. (Whose non sugar-hunter whites I rather like, actually - very sad to hear about him being forced out at his domaine.)

I love the '04 Belliviere but I can see where you might not, but it really demands food to make anything of it.

What food do you like with it?

I hope everyone who was in town got a chance to try the NPA Chard, as it won't be traveling.

Hey, I was surprised how much I liked that. Maybe I had low expectations, but there you are. Sounds like you enjoyed it?

 

[Cory Cartwright]

Penne all'arrabbiata, lotsa bacon for the Belliviere, or some medium spicy mexican.

A Georgian wine was the most tannic, can't remember the producer, but blind I could've mistaken it for a red.

The NPA is really nice, and stylistically different from what everyone is doing here, but it is still unmistakeably chard. We tried it side by side a Ferret from '05 and curiously didn't want to put it down (the Ferret was very good as well).

 

[slaton]

originally posted by VLM:

2005 Domaine de la Ppire Muscadet Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - in a good place

As if you needed to ask. Destined to be a legendary Briords, IMO.

We've sparred on this before. It's great, of course, but seems to me to be hitting a plateau sooner than I expected.

1992 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Rotenberg Vendange Tardive - needed more acid

What slaton forgets is that this is Rotenberg and is always on the lower side of the acid spectrum. As it was, I thought it showed as it should. VT Rotenberg pinot gris always has an interesting caramel thing going on that I like. You have to take it for waht it is, not what you wan tit to be.

Happy to take your word for it. I drink only slightly more pinot gris than I do viognier, and there's a similar observation to be made for Vin d'Alsace, generally. I need to get out more.

2006 De Moor Chablis Rosette - good but a little big and fleshy, perhaps typical for the vintage

Actually, I think the de Moor wines tend to be a little loose. Again, a wine you need to take for what it is, you shouldn't be putting Dauvissat expectations on it.

"Loose" is not a word I would use to describe the 2005 Rosette, but I've not drank it in awhile.

On the other hand their '05 aligote was wiry and great on release but went soft very quickly in bottle.

2004 Francois Cotat Sancerre Le Culs de Beaujeau - very nice, still greenish and reassuringly young. No need to hurry on these.

I thought this showed well. I didn't like it nearly as much as slaton or Luc. Showed a bit hot to me. I'd actually drink sooner that slaton says because I'm not sure I trust the balance. Still good though.

I was somewhere in between you and Luc on this bottle. I was pleased that it was dry and not happily transforming into refermented ass-cheese, to quote Thor.

2000 San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT (Trentino) - good bottle, great wine. One of my favorite wines made from these grapes.

I think slayer is trying too hard. This was as good a bottle of this as I've had and I liked it a lot.

This was my 3rd or 4th bottle of the 2000. I'd put it somewhere in the middle of the pack, although the bottle variation has been pretty small with these.

I was pretty imprecise by this point though.

 

[Rahsaan]

originally posted by slaton: Who is the poster boy for modern Savennieres, anyway? Serious question. I thought in Savennieres 'modern' referred to sooner-drinking, ripe, slightly oxidative styles like Jo Pithon.

I don't know that there is one poster-boy/domaine, but there is a definite trend brewing.

Good reading on the subject can be found here: http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/savennieres_index.htm

(forgive me if you've already seen it)

 

[slaton]

originally posted by Rahsaan:
Good reading on the subject can be found here: http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/savennieres_index.htm

Great reading, thanks.

Interestingly, Kelley includes the 2005 Domaine aux Moines we drank on his list of The Ten Best Wines to Buy Now.

Also, he clearly likes whatever changes are happening at that Domaine, as he includes them in his list of The Ten Best Growers with the qualifier "(since 2005)".

 

[Joel Stewart]

great to read all these notes...looks like a lot of wine and fun.

Slaton, can you describe the difference between a pop and pour Huet Petillant and one with a 4 hr decant?

 

[slaton]

Joel, for me the extra aeration with this wine brings more richness to the midpalate, and takes the edge off the singed wool/lanolin aromas, which I enjoy but sometimes find a little aggressive. I may also be enjoying it more due to SO2 blowing off, but I don't know how much is used at bottling for the petillant.

 

[Joel Stewart]

originally posted by slaton:
Joel, for me the extra aeration with this wine brings more richness to the midpalate, and takes the edge off the singed wool/lanolin aromas, which I enjoy but sometimes find a little aggressive. Some of this may be due to SO2 blowing off, but I don't know how much is used at bottling for the petillant.

thanks Slaton, that's handy info. i was also curious about the bubbles....is there but/even a prickle left?

 

[slaton]

originally posted by Joel Stewart:

originally posted by slaton:
Joel, for me the extra aeration with this wine brings more richness to the midpalate, and takes the edge off the singed wool/lanolin aromas, which I enjoy but sometimes find a little aggressive. Some of this may be due to SO2 blowing off, but I don't know how much is used at bottling for the petillant.

thanks Slaton, that's handy info. i was also curious about the bubbles....is there but/even a prickle left?

There's less, certainly, but still a prickle. Starting out very cold helps as the CO2 bubbles out of solution more slowly.

 

[Joel Stewart]

originally posted by slaton: Starting out very cold helps as the CO2 bubbles out of solution more slowly.

gotcha, sounds good...

 

[slaton]

originally posted by Joel Stewart:

originally posted by slaton: Starting out very cold helps as the CO2 bubbles out of solution more slowly.

gotcha, sounds good...

I feel obligated to add that most people thought I was being ridiculous (by decanting it).

But it was the first bottle to be drained.