TNs: Very Veri Vini--Los Angeles, a reunion and revelation

Sarah Warner

Sarah Warner
Paid for by Joe Dressner*

Better late than never, I suppose. But its been a busy week.

Let me preface these TNs by informing you why this LA tasting was of such importance to me. It all started back in April 2008 in Verona. I was visting for work, attending VinItaly. I happened to have a completely free evening, so after enjoying some overpriced pizza and plonk with a view at the coliseum, I thought Id mosey over to Bottega del Vino, where all the wine folks go during VinItaly to see what sorts of crazy characters I could run into and trouble I might cause.
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After a glass of Chianti and some mingling with the natives, and realizing I recognized no one, I

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sidled up to bar for another glass to pass the time as I awaited my friends and colleagues to return from their various dinners. At the bar, I noticed a tall, dark haired man next to me ordering what sounded like a pretty nifty bottle in English, and not just any old English, but perfect AMERICAN English. Never one to be too shy, I stated my case, Excuse me, but I noticed you speak American! He laughed and we chatted for a second, and then from out behind the bar appeared 6 beautiful Bottega del Vino glasses and a 1969 Taurasi Mastrobernardinomy eyes lit up. Wow! Are you going to drink that!? I asked, eyes wide and dancing, envious, pleading. We sure are! Care to join us? SCORE!

By the way, Im Doug Polaner, he said and extended his hand. I about dropped my teeth. I was doing cartwheels inside, I felt like the little leaguer hanging with the Big League. I followed him, nay I sashayed behind him to the outside to meet the lucky recipients to share in this wine. He introduced me to his friends and poured me a glass. It was gorgeous. A somewhat brash and irreverent, yet jolly-with-a-likeable-sarcastic-wit of a character with a clearly East Coast accent asked me what I was doing here at VinItaly. I told him and he said, AW yeah? Well, then, could you tell me who THAT guy is over there? The one all dressed up in the suit with the gray hair? If you can, Ill hire you on the spot! My heart sank. I didnt recognize the person. I have no idea who that isYET. Give me 30 seconds! So I walked over to the foppish gentleman, Parle inglese? I sasked. Bwhooooooooooooo SI! he cackled, clearly intoxicated, barely awake. Im sorry, but you look familiar. Have we met? I asked. Well I am a Movie star! HA! stumbling over with hearty weeze-filled laugh. Turns out this maroon-suited dandy was an importer of Portuguese wines. I waved over to Mr. Polaners friend, Hey, you wanna meet this guy? And I introduced the two of them. The irreverent-yet-likeably-sarcastic-and-quick-witted-with-an-East-Coast accent character extended his hand to introduce himself. Hi, Im Joe Dressner.

And THAT is how I met Joe. Id read his blog in the past and enjoyed it, but it after meeting someone like Joe, the blog comes more into context. I had a blast with Joe and his group, mingling about, making fun of characters who crossed our paths. I ran into Joe again on at the airport on the way back to LA, and it turned out, we were on the same plane. During the year that followed, Id e-mail him from time to time to say hello, or in many cases, to find wines Id read aboutunavailable in Los Angeles for the most part. I chased LAncienne all over the globe in a race against time before my buddy, a bojo-head got to it first. Joe put me in touch with Shawn Mead (who incidentally is great friends with the person from whom I was on the LAncienne hunt) when I was seeking a bottle of Puzelat Pinot dAunis and low and behold, she told me there was ONE place to find this wineLou on Vine, a wine bar dedicated to serving unspoofulated wines. And that is how I found Lou, and Puzelat Pineau dAunis and Occhipinti and so many other Dressner treasures. Three months later I met Brad Kane through mutual friend Dan Fredman.

And the circle was now complete.

Though few of Dres wines are available in Los Angeles, his omnipresence either directly or indirectly in my life is now astounding. So when I found out about this tasting, there was no way I was going to miss it. Joe had only brought great things my way thus far as to wine, people and laughter at the insanity of it all. This was a great day for wine in Los Angeles. I took a half-day from work, even. I was ecstatic to see what would come our way. And most of all, I was so excited to see Joe.

Joe was standing at the entrance to the tasting and I nearly knocked him over with a hug. Ive balded since you last saw me, he said. Ummm I like your cane..? I offered. Then I gave him a lollipop from Brad and asked, Who loves ya, baby? And, Joe smiled. Gold! When I walked into the tasting, I immediately scanned the room to see if my suspicions were correct as to who might be there and in the know: Patrick Comiskey-check, Dana Farner-check, Dan Fredman-check, Greg Greenbaumyup! And many others. So many wines, so little time! I feared socializing would occupy most of my time but my fears quickly resolved. People were nice and sociable, but it was all to clear that they, like me were here to do some MOTHERF%^KIN tasting! I withdrew, calmed down, and sank into observer mode, quiet, and thinking, senses aware, and taking it all in.

On to the notes!

My personal standouts/opines:

Domaine du Closel Savennieres Evelyne de Jessey:
2006 Clos Papillon--this to me was a perfect expression of Chenin Blanc, beautiful balance in acidity, structure and minerality.

2006 Jalousie--Interesting--almost a waxiness, oiliness to this wine, bone dry with high acidity and the schisty minerality is evident. I'd love to see how it ages. Apparently there's extensive lees contact and batonnage in this wine? It does it well, I think. Slight oxidation, but it works.

Francois Pinon
My favorite was the off-list wine--a Brut non-dose. Flinty (in a good way) great acid.

Franck Peillot
I love the fact that Franck brought a map to show people where in Sam hell Bugey is.

2007 Altesse de Montagnieu--yup, the grape is Altesse, believed to be a relative to furmint. Interesting wine

2006 Mondeuse--Awesome! I love Refosco, so ... there's that bitter finish. I like

Domaine le Briseau
Let me just preface this by saying I was in love with these wines before even having them. I read this couple's bio on the Dressner website and I just love the story. Their photo together just made me so happy. They look so happy! I think great wine comes from happy winemakers. This makes me happy to think about this.

2007 You are so nice--Malbec and Gamay. I liked this wine because of the integration of tea-like aromas.

Coteaux-du-Loir "La Derobee"--Pineau d'Aunis! Something I can't get enough of since I found this varietal. It's a fun grape. Wild aromas and tastes.

Terres Dorees--Beaujolais, Jean Paul-Brun
I've been a fan of Brun's ever since his L'Ancienne was declassified. Rebel! I hunted down the l'Ancienne cross the entire country when I learned of this. I hope LA carries this wine. It's a lovely expression of Beaujolais and a great price! To quote Polaner's website on this wine: Brun wants to make "old-style" Beaujolais and his vinification differs from the prevailing practices in the region. He believes that the charm of the Gamay's fruit is best expressed by the grapes' indigenous yeast, rather than by adding industrial yeast.

2008 Beaujolais Blanc Chard
A wonderful Chard because it's UNchard-like. Excellent fruit, citrus, apples, great balance.
2007 Condrieu
My first Condrieu experience was a bad one because the wine was over the hill, so this was a first for me--and I have to say, it's everything "they" said it would be. Classic flavor profile of cornflowers, acacia and hay. Yay!

I agree the '08 L'Ancienne could use some time in the bottle. Can't wait! I loved the '07!

My favorites of his Cru Bojo line up were those from Morgon and Moulin a Vent, and then of course there was the fun sparkler the NV FRV100! A mousseux aromatique made from (drumroll) Gamay! It's a fun wine, and Jean, with what little English he did speak, he understood the word, "fun" and agreed that it was, indeed, FUN! I love Jean-Paul Brun!

Total, EPIC, Awesomesauce!

Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes
'06 Morgon Cote du Py and the Javernieres were standouts here--preferred 06 to 07.

Domaine Marechal, Burgundy
Standout wine: 2006 Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee Gravel--sourced from 1.6 ha in the communes of Bligny-ls-Beaune and Pommard. Elegant, lovely fruit and finish.
I also enjoyed the 2006 Ladoix. The 2007s were SO YOUNG, but I have a hunch will do well with some age

Vittorio Bera & Figli
I cannot say enough good things about the wines from this producer. Alessandra was there to pour and answer questions and I just about melted over her. What a talented producer and classically elegant lady! They are primarily known for their Moscato, which was fantastic! But I found their other wines to be home runs too:
2007 Arcese Bianco: HOLY SMOKES WHAT A WINE! It's a blend of Cortese, Favorita and Arneis. This wine spoke to me, nay, it SANG. It was so unusual and proof positive that yes, white wines can be so enjoyably complex. Dare I say it was almost kinky, this wine. My tasting notes--wow, check this out: herbal, earth, peat, sage, gaminess, cilantro and rosemary. The flavors are astounding. I love Arneis any old day, but the Cortese adds nice fruit and the Favorita--no idea what it adds, but, what a name for a grape! I must find me a bottle.
2006 Barbera--she had decanted this wine and OMG it was gorgeous. I didn't write down any notes but I remember a distinctly long finish with notes of cocoa. This wine is not fined or filtered--it adds a wildness to the wine, a gritty rustic quality--not over the top though, elegantly executed. A pretty wine.

Campi di Fonterenza, Montalcino
By the time I worked my way over here, I must admit, I was tired. It was 90 degrees outside, and about just under 87 degrees at Campanile. I had on pants. I was roasting. I was ready to sit down, as were the producers, who were all huddled under the lone air conditioning duct trying to beat the heat. But then Francesca jumped up from her seat, all smiles and sun-kissed skin to present the wines. Gorgeous! I wish I had better notes here. But I can say they were all excellent. Gorgeous fruit on all. The 2006 Rosso was my favorite. I would take the IGT Sangio for a nice every day red wine--and I don't say the words every day and red wine together often!

Eric Texier
Eric's a total gas. A jovial man. And what a line up of wines! There were so many! I was particularly eager about Eric after reading about the O Pale wine--described here from Dressner's website: A Bordeaux native who has lived in or around Lyon since 1979, Eric is a jovial, energetic and fun-loving person who wants his wines to make their drinkers happy. Hes always looking to innovate, and, since he loves German wines, he started emulating them in 2005 by vinifying Viognier grapes from Condrieu as if they were Riesling. Ple is 8 degrees of alcohol, sweet and light, with fresh acidity and delicate aromas.

Intriguing!

Also--Texier sources all grapes from interesting vineyard plots and areas--to note, Brezeme--I loved the Brezeme wines, particularly the Roussane. Interesting also--The wines are vinified in their areas of production--that's a lot of work! On to the notes:

2007 Cotes-du-Rhone Brezeme Blanc (Roussane) I hate Roussane. It tastes like weeds to me and it tends to have this blousy body that I cannot stand. This wine was lovely though! Nice minerality and acid. I may have changed my mind about Roussane.

2008 Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc Viognier--lemon/lime, super high acidity. Nice structure!

2006 Cotes-du-Rhone Brezeme Rouge--I told Eric this was my favorite of all of his reds. He said, I definitely have a Northern Rhone palate and a preference for Syrah. Good to know! This wines was nicely balanced, great fruit but with a good structure. I liked the 07, too but I think it needs some time.

The Grenaches were good, but again, I preferred the No. Rhone wines here. The 2006 Cote Rotie Vielles Vignes, poured at the end, I also liked very much, thank you, sir!

Luneau Papin
2007 Clos des Alles--my notes only say BEAUTIFUL with a smiley face. Sometimes there are no words to describe something, I guess

2007 L d'Or--earthy! Mmmmmm. Earth.

Pepiere, Muscadet
Where was it! I was ordered by the powers that be (Brad Kane) NOT to miss these Moose-cadets.
Sadly--they were overlooked by moi :-( Next time!

And last but not least, Occhipinti
Ah yes, Occhipinti--introduced to me, courtesy of Lou--first the Nero d'Avola and two weeks ago, I got a taste of the Frappato. Frappato! What is this grape? I love it! A native varietal of SE Sicily, I guess. So different than would one might expect from a Sicilian red--it's light in body, translucent, unlike Nero tends to be and has gorgeous aromatics--dare I say, Pinot Noir-like. It's elegant, with a strong grapey aroma as well. I love it! And the Nero--it lingered on my tongue for days.

I was quite taken by Arriana, too. She's so young! And so talented! Shes got attitude, and a husky voice. What a rock star! These wines are made in pretty small quantities I am told, so buy up while you canI bought the last bottle of Frappato in stock at Chambers:

2008 SP68 DOC Rosso Vittoria--Awesome!
2006 IGT Rosso Sicilia Il FrappatoRockin my world!
2007 IGT Rosso Sicilia Il Frappato--Ditto!
2006 IGT Rosso Sicilia Siccagno Nero d'Avola--More please!

I missed the Chinato!

And that is all. Phew! What an amazing day. What I noticed about these wines the most is true character--a distinct sense of place, and in some cases, an untamed wildness you just dont find in many wines. You can taste the soil, the earth, and even in some cases, the story. The producers are people of the earth: farmers with sun-kissed skin and history in their eyes. This was an eye-opening experience. Wow. Just. Wow.

OK Im all out of words. Please enjoy this photo taken after the Dressner tasting:
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Chin Chin Joe and Denyse!
 
I swear, this is by far the best character introduction Coad has ever done. Perfectly-formed and complex, right from the start. It took him forever to get going with the Sharon character. Well done, Chris!

Three months later I met Brad Kane through mutual friend Dan Fredman.
Dan, sure, everybody likes Dan...but I can't have been the only one who was surprised when the story continued after this line. It's where wine narratives so often die a premature death.
 
Well done SW. BTW-you didn't miss the Pepieres. I poured you some-the regular MdSeMSL and the VV "Clos des Briords". You liked.
 
Great write-up, Ms. Warner.

We had pretty much the same wines last week and the month before. I really enjoyed the Luneau-Papin offerings and having never really tried Joe's Italian selections before I took the opportunity to finally try a bunch of them and was greatly impressed. I loved the Bera Moscato. Just so clean and precise and not too sweet. I think you liked the White a little more than I did. I liked it, but there was a spritz on the bottle I tried.

I think my biggest surprise was the Silvio Messana Sangiovese and Rosso di Montalcino. I really enjoyed both wines finding great, unadulterated fruit in both wines while having nice focus without too much of a hard edge.

Loved the Peillot Altesse and was surprised by how much I liked the Mondeuse. Eric texier's lineup was also very strong and now after a couple of tastes of the Gervais it's clear the first bottle a few of us had was off.

A shame you didn't try any other wines from Pinon. Their Vouvray Silex and Tradition showed nicely.

Was the Closel Clos Papillon you had an '06? They showed an '05 here last month.
 
&qidBwood Esq, you must be confused - I'm still here, but this is defunct . We should hold a boardwide jeebus sometime and prove the existence of everyone, unless Coad's mind control over the Wine Disorder readership is such that he'd be able to convince people that we all attended, despite being figments of his imagination. He's a good writer, but is he that good? Or maybe Joe writes everything and Coad is one of his characters. It reminds me a lot of the original version of "The Watchmen".

Sarah, I'm sorry that we didn't cross paths at the tasting. I almost didn't make it over there because I was getting my hot tub LEED-Certified that afternoon (I got Silver!!) and the inspector from the US Green Building Council and was on a really tight schedule because he also had to certify the solarium of the maid's quarters at David Geffen's weekend retreat (it got Platinum) as well as the grease trap at the Starbuck's at Trancas (only Silver). I made it to the tasting toward the end and I think that my notes were posted in some other thread. I liked the Bugey wines and Jasnieres wines the bestest but didn't much care for whatever those wines were that Dressner was pouring upstairs by the bathrooms. They were from the winery that has the animal on the label that's like half-kangaroo, half dodo and is named after a European nobleman: Marquis Phillps maybe? The winemaker is related someway to Molly Dooker, the cooking show hostess who has been hailed as "the Australian Rachel Ray". Joe said that he was trying to close out a few cases he'd bought for a comparitive tasting a few years ago on another wine board and the IRS would only let him charge the cost off if he used them for trade tastings. I don't know if he wants to become the new official importer, but I've heard stranger rumors in the past few weeks so I'm accepting everything I hear as fact, at least until I hear otherwise.

originally posted by Sarah Warner:

When I walked into the tasting, I immediately scanned the room to see if my suspicions were correct as to who might be there and in the know: Patrick Comiskey-check, Dana Farner-check, Dan Fredman-check

I know these people you namechecked (so to speak) above and I would be reluctant to ask any of them to pick up a check, unless it was for something like your mother's dialysis treatment or something having to do with PETA. Not that they're selfish, greedy bastards or anything, but I don't think that any of them are independently wealthy and let's just say that maybe they lead better lives (and work harder) than their paychecks would indicate. Best to give the check-check to someone with big bucks, like maybe a wine importer or a plastic surgeon or someone eminent (and flush) like that.

originally posted by Sarah Warner:
People were nice and sociable, but it was all to clear that they, like me were here to do some MOTHERF%^KIN tasting!

Sarah, welcome to Wine Disorder, the internet's only wineboard where you're not only allowed to write out "motherfucking", but encouraged (but please use lower-case letters; there's not need to shout, lest you wake up the kids on the other boards, if they do indeed exist).

-Eden (but watch out for the Politburo)
 
originally posted by Eden Mylunsch:
We should hold a boardwide jeebus sometime and prove the existence of everyone,

I'm offering to host. Third weekend of October in Durham, NC.

I can try to negotiate with the Marriott down the street from Rue Cler for rates, although it is Durham, and not that expensive to begin with.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Eden Mylunsch:
We should hold a boardwide jeebus sometime and prove the existence of everyone,

I'm offering to host. Third weekend of October in Durham, NC.

I can try to negotiate with the Marriott down the street from Rue Cler for rates, although it is Durham, and not that expensive to begin with.

Or you *could* rent a beach house on the Outer Banks and I might just be able to make a case to the wife...
 
originally posted by Thor:
I swear, this is by far the best character introduction Coad has ever done. Perfectly-formed and complex, right from the start. It took him forever to get going with the Sharon character. Well done, Chris!

Three months later I met Brad Kane through mutual friend Dan Fredman.
Dan, sure, everybody likes Dan...but I can't have been the only one who was surprised when the story continued after this line. It's where wine narratives so often die a premature death.

Thanks, man. I knew everyone would understand my recent silence once the rollout happened. These kinds of things don't happen overnight. Hell, I spent nearly a week trying to decide if the "bojo" thing was too over the top, y'know?
 
originally posted by Gregg G:
Well done SW. BTW-you didn't miss the Pepieres. I poured you some-the regular MdSeMSL and the VV "Clos des Briords". You liked.

Thank you, Gregg! You are so correct. I didn't write any notes, though. Bummer!

originally posted by Brad Kane:
A shame you didn't try any other wines from Pinon. Their Vouvray Silex and Tradition showed nicely.

Ah, but I did try them both. I didn't have many notes by them, though, none that I could decipher, other than "flinty" and "fruity" I'm still developing my tasting notes repertoire. And the Papillon was indeed an '06. I'm glad you liked the Rosso di Montalcino, too. I liked that one a lot.

originally posted by Eden Mylunsch:
Sarah, welcome to Wine Disorder, the internet's only wineboard where you're not only allowed to write out "motherfucking", but encouraged (but please use lower-case letters; there's not need to shout, lest you wake up the kids on the other boards, if they do indeed exist).

Eden, Pleased to meet you. I love your writing. Thank you for the warm welcome. I'm so bummed I didn't meet you in person at the tasting. Maybe some other time, I hope!

CHin CHin everyone. I agree to a boardwide jeeb.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
Hell, I spent nearly a week trying to decide if the "bojo" thing was too over the top, y'know?

Oh noes, was it? Bojo- I use it commonly to refer to Beaujolais. No bueno?
 
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