TN: This and that

slaton

Slaton Lipscomb
A few recent and semi-recent ones.

2004 Pascal Janvier Jasnires (8/19/2008)
Very sulfury at first, requiring an hour or more to blow off. With some air, aromas of quince, apple syrup, wax, wet soil, petrol. Fuller bodied than I remember from previous bottles, with pleasantly prickly acidity. Really engaging on the palate, with flavors of green tea, lanolin, lemon zest, light petrol, almost riesling like. I found the sugar far more integrated at room temperature vs chilled. Although lacking the intense minerality of previous bottles, this was a fabulous drink, much cleaner and more sorted than one opened in February. Drink or hold, but recommend a good long decanting.

2001 Benanti Etna Pietramarina Superiore (8/7/2008)
Pale green-yellow in color. Very fresh, appealing nose of lemongrass, dandelion, underripe apricot, sea spray. The palate has pretty green and lemon fruit splashed with ocean water and wrapped around a core of bracing acidity, with excellent length. It's like the Pan-Galactic Gargle Blaster of wines, the effect of which is "similar to having one's brains smashed out by a slice of lemon wrapped around a large gold brick." Fresh from bottle the wine is very tight and displays some alcoholic warmth on the back end, but with time in the glass the midpalate fleshes out impressively, and the alcohol integrates completely. The list of Italian whites that age gracefully is unfortunately short, but this is clearly one of them - still remarkably tight and unevolved at age 7. Fantastic stuff that needs time, and certainly one of the finest Italian whites I've tasted. Hold.

2004 Domaine Bernard Gripa St. Joseph (7/21/2008)
Nose of smoky, bright red fruits, bacon, cigar ash. A touch of animale. Juicy, with punchy-fresh dark-red berry fruit and well-integrated acidity that keeps the wine focused, but also easy to drink save for a bit of astringent tannin at the end. Fantastic, feminine syrah that is right in my corner, and drinking very well now with a bit of air. Drink or hold.

2006 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage (8/17/2008)
This is a dark, purplish colored wine. Initially almost California like, with superripe fruit and licorice aromas and flavors, and little else to offer. With extensive (6 hours) decanting it is more appealing, with a nose of dark fruit, violets, olive, and crushed rock minerality. Much fuller in the mouth, with ripe dark purple fruits, tobacco, moderate acidity and lots of grainy, toothcoating tannin. Very clean wine. There's a lingering aroma of crushed black pepper in the empty glass. This needs at least a couple of years to lose some baby fat, for my palate anyway. Hold.

1996 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuve Spciale Cabassaou (8/23/2008)
Very young in appearance, opaquely purple-black and just turning garnet at the rim. Aromas of old rotten wood, saddle leather, black currant, prune, high-toned spice. Nicely developed, but sweetly rich and leathery in the mouth. Unmistakeably a southern wine, with a slightly bitter roasted note and adequate acidity, but for me a bit pruney and heavy. Just a bit of grip still from tannins, this should go another 5-10 years in the cellar, perhaps more. I can certainly understand the old school appeal here, but I didn't love it. Drink or hold.

2005 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Clos Snchal (8/23/2008)
Huge, palate-staining, mouthfilling, etc. Remarkable concentrated with rich, dry dark fruit extract, savory dried herbs, and vivid, grainy minerality. It's not quite heavy thanks to the bright acidity, but I do find it kind of overwhelming to the senses currently. Can't wait to taste this one down the road. Huge upside potential. Drink or hold, depending on your proclivity for young bruisers.

2001 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (8/2/2008)
Sweet, warm cherry and cassis fruits, almost raisiny, with a pleasantly spicy, leathery quality. Just a bit of dried herbs, tobacco. There is sangiovese character to be found here, but it's a warmer interpretation; this reminds me almost as much of the rich, ripe and spicy reds of Puglia as it does Tuscany. A good wine and very good value, but not my favorite style for this region or grape. Drink or hold.
 
2005 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Clos Snchal (8/23/2008)
Huge, palate-staining, mouthfilling, etc. Remarkable concentrated with rich, dry dark fruit extract, savory dried herbs, and vivid, grainy minerality. It's not quite heavy thanks to the bright acidity, but I do find it kind of overwhelming to the senses currently. Can't wait to taste this one down the road. Huge upside potential. Drink or hold, depending on your proclivity for young bruisers.

Thanks, was debating whether to open one of my moving sale purchases or shove them in a box in the back. The latter it shall be.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
I've always liked Graillot's Crozes-Hermitage. I don't buy it much anymore. Why is that?
Perhaps because it's $30 now, whereas it was in the upper teens just a couple of years ago?

Not that I'm saying it's unreasonably priced, compared to everything else these days.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
You know, I think you may be right. When I was buying it more it was around $17-$18.

I blame the weak dollar.

You mean your salary hasn't increased at the same rate?

Impossible!
 
2004 Pascal Janvier Jasnires (8/19/2008)
I found the sugar...Drink or hold, but recommend a good long decanting.

So this obviously wasn't the sec. I wouldn't have thought that one was something to hold.
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
You know, I think you may be right. When I was buying it more it was around $17-$18.

I blame the weak dollar.

Unfortunately, it's now 19 around these parts. Just bought a 2006 two days ago; couldn't keep my hands off it, though the price did sting.
 
I thought the '06 Janvier Jasnires was unnecessarily sulfury as well, the other day, but I don't have experience with these wines, so it may all be for a good cause. And I hadn't even realized there were such important vineyards between Montlouis and Tours, I thought there was just a big bridge there!

I found the last two bottles of '05 Senechal closing down significantly, sorry to disagree on the "drink or hold" assessment.
 
I tried the wines recently, haven't in a while, they were really froot-juicy and not really reminiscent of the Graillot wines of yore.

I'm not a buyer, myself.

I haven't had any 2005 Snchal outside of tastings. Mine sleep, but fortunately, I have 2002 which is showing really well right now.
 
Another vote for Hold on the 05 Clos Senechal. The bottle I tried a few weeks ago was a dark purple brick.

I really liked the 04 Graillot, I thought it had some elegance and balance.

Many thanks for the note on the Benanti wine, I've been curious about it. Is it Carricante?
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
2004 Pascal Janvier Jasnires (8/19/2008)
I found the sugar...Drink or hold, but recommend a good long decanting.

So this obviously wasn't the sec. I wouldn't have thought that one was something to hold.
Rahsaan, I'd put this wine somewhere between sec and sec tendre. I don't know if Janvier made any other Jasnires in 2004, but this is the only one Kermit brought in. Starting in either 2005 or 2006 there are several cuvees at KLWM, including a Coteaux du Loir and a Jasnires Cuvee du Silex.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
I found the last two bottles of '05 Senechal closing down significantly, sorry to disagree on the "drink or hold" assessment.
I double-decanted this bottle about 6 hours prior to drinking, and it was probably consumed within a 15 minute (maximum) time period. It wasn't shut down, but I agree with you for alternative, previously established (palate body-slam) reasons.
 
originally posted by VLM:
GraillotI tried the wines recently, haven't in a while, they were really froot-juicy
And that's definitely how this showed out of the bottle. With a few hours of air it was more interesting, but still overall a more fruit-dominated wine than I expected. The Gripa was much more to my liking, although it has the benefit of two additional years of age. To be fair though, my preferences in syrah are much along the lines of Jay Miller's old sig.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
Many thanks for the note on the Benanti wine, I've been curious about it. Is it Carricante?
Indeed. I wonder if anyone else is making carricante in this style? I've tasted a Gulfi carricante and while tasty it lacked the lean intensity of the Pietramarina. Although to be fair it was not from Mt Etna.

Haven't tasted the Vini Biondi Gurna that Oliver brings in. I need to remedy that.
 
I really liked the Gurna. Minerals but with a Southern sunshine richness too.

A note from 7/08
Vini Biondi Etna Gurna
Fragrant expressive nose, some florals, red apple skin, and saline minerals. Has some oily richness to the mouth, but with good definition. Long bitter lemon finish. Very enjoyable and in a good place to drink right now. Good match with crusty bread and olive oil, also did well with grilled sockeye salmon. Would buy again. 12.5% abv, about $25.

I've tried a middle aged Gulfi Carricante, and it had a Riesling like petrol smell. It is amazing the acidity the wine retains, grown as far south as Sicily. I guess the altitude has more to do with it.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
And I hadn't even realized there were such important vineyards between Montlouis and Tours

What does this have to do with Janvier or Jasnires?

Nothing. Completely disoriented.
 
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