TN: 2005 Alesia Pinot Noir Falstaff Vineyard

D

Dave Nelson

Dave Nelson
Rhys Vineyards produces the Alesia line of wines from purchased fruit. Having heard good things about the folks involved, I've been buying ones or twos of the wines I've been offered so far. I had not popped any of the wines from their Spring release and with the Fall release due soon, I thought I should. Of those offerings, their website nominated this one as the most ready for current consumption. The vineyard is in the Sonoma Coast AVA and is described by the winery as "chilly."

Big and dark and rich. Three things I'm not crazy about in Pinot Noir and this wine had them all in spades. Lots of spicy fruit (bordering on froot), and significant (though not unpleasantly so - and I have a pretty low threshold) oak imprint. There is some complexity to the fruit, but it's rather monolithic now. It never strays to ponderous or to hot, but this is definitely not my cuppa. The whole package reminds to a not insignificant degree of a richer or more concentrated Dujac wine.

If this was my sole data point, it is far enough outside my preferences that I'd pass on buying any more from them. But, there's quite a bit left for day two, so I'll tack on an update in the comments, and I'll probably open at least one more bottling to see what I think of it.

Cheers,

Dave
 
Dave,
Kevin Harvey (of Rhys) and I have had some talks about this.
He's a smart businessman and he needs to move bottles but he's also pretty committed to this project. Still, if I were guessing, I'd say he is alot more demanding of the Rhys label, especially since it represents estate fruit.
But in the past year or so, I sense a movement toward a more European style - he will never let the CA market go - he'd be a fool to. But some of his Alesia wines seem to be slimmer than in the past - not all, but some.
And I suspect the label will tend that way.
FWIW, the only currently active mailing list I am on.
Best, Jim

PS Your comment about Dujac should bring him a smile.
 
I had a similar experience with the 2004 Sonatera a couple of days ago. If memory serves, someone told me it was drinking well. I liked another Alesia alright, in a big-fruited CA style. This was too much for me.

2004 Rhys Alesia Pinot Noir Sonatera - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (9/2/2008)
Day two follow up (bottle opened yesterday and poured into 375). Well, it has softened a bit, but I could barely finish a glass.
2004 Rhys Alesia Pinot Noir Sonatera - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (9/1/2008)
I love the philosophy of the house but not this wine. Dark, almost black, cola, cinnamon, clove, and spice. Really intense. Doesn't taste like pinot noir to me.
 
Based on my small sampling: the '04 SC PN from January and the '03 SC Syrah from July, I'm a buyer. I'm looking forward to the offer.
 
I certainly haven't given up and am interested in the more recent releases, which I gather are shooting for a more restrained style. I would esp. like to try one of the estate wines, but since I only have one or two of each and everyone says they'll be much better with time, to date, I've held off.
 
Thanks for the insights, Jim. You were the one who tipped me off to what Kevin et al were up to. This too is my only mailing list, well, apart from yours, but I haven't gotten that one yet. I've not yet had any estate wine, but look forward to sampling some sometime.

Cliff, my only other Alesia Pinot (other than a taste of something at Toledo '07) was the '04 Sonatera. It too was big for my tastes, but Rhys had warned that it was such, so I was more prepared than I was for this one from a "chilly" vineyard.
 
Most of the Alesia bottlings have been too big for me though I have some hopes that time will help. That said, I really liked the Green Valley from the Spring release. Really stood out from the others for being more graceful and having, ehem, "adequate acidity".
 
originally posted by Dave Nelson:
Cliff, my only other Alesia Pinot (other than a taste of something at Toledo '07) was the '04 Sonatera. It too was big for my tastes, but Rhys had warned that it was such, so I was more prepared than I was for this one from a "chilly" vineyard.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, I must have missed that. I read their notes trying to figure out the code words. Looks like I missed it big time. There was no shortage of acidity but rather too much of everything, save oak, which was there, but, I agree, was nicely done.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
Most of the Alesia bottlings have been too big for me though I have some hopes that time will help. That said, I really liked the Green Valley from the Spring release. Really stood out from the others for being more graceful and having, ehem, "adequate acidity".
Click to expand...

I just got one of those and so have been reluctant to try it. Sounds like it's more up my street.
 
originally posted by Cliff:

Ahhh, I must have missed that. I read their notes trying to figure out the code words. Looks like I missed it big time. There was no shortage of acidity but rather too much of everything, save oak, which was there, but, I agree, was nicely done.
Click to expand...

Here's the note from their mailer, along with the terms that jumped out at me:

http://www.rhysvineyards.com/wines/tn_popup.php?y=2004&f=alesiasonatera (cut & paste it - fuck if I know the html code for a link)

"a wine of exceptional concentration" . . . . "ripe" . . . . "bucketloads of sweet blackberry compote" . . . . "hedonistic fruit" . . . .

Jay, thanks for the tip on what to pull for a second sample bottle.

Dan, I'm glad they're in your wheelhouse.
 
Looks like I didn't read too carefully, or at least got sidetracked by the first sentence:

"Located in the heart of the Petaluma Gap, Sonatera vineyard gets pummeled with the chilly fog that rushes in to cool Californias inner valleys. This climatic condition produces extremely tiny grapes and small clusters leading to a wine of exceptional concentration and distinctive black-fruited character."

Live and learn. I thought the bottle-talker mentioned something about cool-climate fruit too, which seemed incongruous while trying to drink it.
 
originally posted by Cliff:
I thought the bottle-talker mentioned something about cool-climate fruit too, which seemed incongruous while trying to drink it.
Click to expand...

The Sonatera did have better acidity than this bottle as well. Or at least that's how it seems to my memory.
 
Hello,
I am new to this board but saw a thread that I couldn't pass up...

I agree that the '04 Sonatera and '05 Falstaff are very ripe. The '04 vintage in general was quite hot at harvest (roughly the equivalent to 2003 in Burgundy)and certainly posed challenges. While our '04 Alesia Pinots have been popular, the vintage character is much riper than I find ideal. For a variety of reasons , the '04 Rhys wines were not affected by the heat and they are much more indicative of what we are trying to do.
On the '05 Falstaff, it too is a crowd pleaser but I would like to see a bit more definition. It was our first year with the vineyard and we made some fairly dramatic changes for '06. The '06 Alesia Pinots are made in exactly the style that we most enjoy fruit from Sonoma. The fruit is fresher and has more structure and energy. We have continued to refine (read reduce) the oak. If someone doesn't enjoy the '06s, I think our Alesia Pinots are not for them.

As Jim alluded to, our biggest focus is on Rhys estate vineyards. Sc Mtn wines are much more mineral and earth driven and do not feature the sucrosity of Sonoma fruit. They also have Burgundy like structure and backbone.

Overall, Rhys/Alesia is a work in progress and I appreciate people's interest and patience.
 
originally posted by Kevin Harvey:
Hello,
I am new to this board but saw a thread that I couldn't pass up...

I agree that the '04 Sonatera and '05 Falstaff are very ripe. The '04 vintage in general was quite hot at harvest (roughly the equivalent to 2003 in Burgundy)and certainly posed challenges. While our '04 Alesia Pinots have been popular, the vintage character is much riper than I find ideal. For a variety of reasons , the '04 Rhys wines were not affected by the heat and they are much more indicative of what we are trying to do.
On the '05 Falstaff, it too is a crowd pleaser but I would like to see a bit more definition. It was our first year with the vineyard and we made some fairly dramatic changes for '06. The '06 Alesia Pinots are made in exactly the style that we most enjoy fruit from Sonoma. The fruit is fresher and has more structure and energy. We have continued to refine (read reduce) the oak. If someone doesn't enjoy the '06s, I think our Alesia Pinots are not for them.

As Jim alluded to, our biggest focus is on Rhys estate vineyards. Sc Mtn wines are much more mineral and earth driven and do not feature the sucrosity of Sonoma fruit. They also have Burgundy like structure and backbone.

Overall, Rhys/Alesia is a work in progress and I appreciate people's interest and patience.
Click to expand...

Kevin-

I for one hope you continue to participate.

I will try to get Jim to open Rhys wines for me whenever I visit.
 
originally posted by Kevin Harvey:

I agree that the '04 Sonatera and '05 Falstaff are very ripe. . . . The '06 Alesia Pinots are made in exactly the style that we most enjoy fruit from Sonoma. The fruit is fresher and has more structure and energy. We have continued to refine (read reduce) the oak. If someone doesn't enjoy the '06s, I think our Alesia Pinots are not for them.
Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in, Kevin. I appreciate the input. If I wanted to open an '06 from the Spring release in the next week or so, which would you recommend?
 
originally posted by Dave Nelson:
originally posted by Kevin Harvey:

I agree that the '04 Sonatera and '05 Falstaff are very ripe. . . . The '06 Alesia Pinots are made in exactly the style that we most enjoy fruit from Sonoma. The fruit is fresher and has more structure and energy. We have continued to refine (read reduce) the oak. If someone doesn't enjoy the '06s, I think our Alesia Pinots are not for them.
Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in, Kevin. I appreciate the input. If I wanted to open an '06 from the Spring release in the next week or so, which would you recommend?
Click to expand...
Dave,
That's a tough question as both are similarly drinkable now and will improve with age. IMO, the '06 Green Valley is lighter bodied with nice balance. I think the Falstaff has a bit more concentration. My favorite is the Falstaff by a nose. I guess when push comes to shove, I opened the GV over the weekend and decided to let my Falstaff's rest....
 
originally posted by Kevin Harvey:

My favorite is the Falstaff by a nose. I guess when push comes to shove, I opened the GV over the weekend and decided to let my Falstaff's rest....
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the input. It's very much appreciated.
 
The Green Valley is definitely the most elegant of the Alesia line - which took a big step up in '06. While I still think Santa Cruz wines are fundamentally more interesting than Sonoma, I remember being struck when we tasted the most recent releases how much the '06 Alesias closed the quality gap vis-a-vis Rhys. It was top-notch Sonoma + top-notch SCM, not "negociant" vs. "domaine."

p.s. Anyone else seeing this page in large-print edition?
 
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