TN: European sun

MarkS

Mark Svereika
Chateau St. Anne, Bandol, 'cuvee vin de collection', 1999
This is St. Anne's, ahem, 'luxury cuvee' - a 98% mourvedre wine. This tastes like Badol that Eric T might make: mourvedre without the funk component and one of the most elegant ones I've had the pleasure of opening. There's a little woodsy mushroom on the nose, and dark chocolate covered plum, mulberry, bing cherry, slight campfire ash along with a floral lift. Very smooth, especially at this stage in life. I prefer this to the regular Bandol. B+/A- 12.5%

Baumard, Coteaux du Layon, cuvee Paon, 1990
Amber, almost fire-orange colored. Leesy pineapple and guava paste nose. Guava paste, butterscotch drops, cheese danish, finishing with apple pomice (like what's left from pressing cider apples). Heady, at 14.5%. Surprisingly balanced, but would be better with a touch more acid and a little less alcohol.
Still, at 19 years old, I'm not complaining too loudly. B+

Basilisco, Aglianico del Vulture, 2003
Sundrenched deep dark black red with heavy glycerin streaks. Brooding nose of dark fruits, eucalyptus, menthol. Dark mass of dark fruits in the mouth, with tar, tobacco, and oak spice. A little better than I feared, (oaky...monster...vintage), but still a monstrous wine. Despite it's strength, I would suggest drinking up if only because my mind says this won't develop added complexity. B+/B 14% Sure hoping the 2004 is better.

Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2001
Bretty iron rust nose. Iron, liquid children's vitamins, blood pudding, and a bretty note that wasn't in an earlier bottle. Very much like licking rusty iron splayed with beef blood. Tough as nails. A manly wine. This actually improves the second day, for those 'wait-and-see' folks, and a previous bottle was much better so it could be either bottle variation or evolution. B

Monastero Suore Cistercensi S.O. Trappiste, 'Coenobium', 2005
Light, occluded pear gold colored. Pear aromas, both eau-de-vie and pearskin, not as freshly aromatic as earlier bottle. In the mouth, mashed cooked peas, pear, and an alcoholic astringency, with cut lemon slices on the finish. Simple, but honest. Just better earlier. B/B+ 12.5%

Marcarini, Barolo 'la Serra', 1998
I'm a little unclear why netizens keep hyping Marcairini's wines. Oh sure, I have a stableful of them too, but have never found one to be truly outstanding or something that I would be awestruck by. Mind you, I'm not talking Giacosa or Cascina Francia good, but something in the direction of "...hmmm, this is damn good nebbiolo". And so far, that moment hasn't come. Which is a shame, because for the price of these ($40-50), this is damned to be middle-market Barolo: pleasing, but not exquisite. I'd rather have something cheaper (to save the pocket something), or more expensive (to please the palate). This just doesn't cut it. Anyway, on to the note: mentholated cherry Vick's Vapor rub nose. Thin and austere palate prescence with a short finish. Light tannins that still grip, unflattering at the momment, no great transformation expected either. Merely okay. 14% B/slight B+
 
originally posted by MarkS:

Marcarini, Barolo 'la Serra', 1998
I'm a little unclear why netizens keep hyping Marcairini's wines. Oh sure, I have a stableful of them too, but have never found one to be truly outstanding or something that I would be awestruck by. Mind you, I'm not talking Giacosa or Cascina Francia good, but something in the direction of "...hmmm, this is damn good nebbiolo". And so far, that moment hasn't come. Which is a shame, because for the price of these ($40-50), this is damned to be middle-market Barolo: pleasing, but not exquisite. I'd rather have something cheaper (to save the pocket something), or more expensive (to please the palate). This just doesn't cut it. Anyway, on to the note: mentholated cherry Vick's Vapor rub nose. Thin and austere palate prescence with a short finish. Light tannins that still grip, unflattering at the momment, no great transformation expected either. Merely okay. 14% B/slight B+

Actually, Mark, your account might lean to the generous side on this wine. Mine have had trouble warming up to "pleasing." I think either they missed in '98 or maybe the wines are just going to take a long time to come around (which is hard to believe tasting the wine now) or (my best guess) a whole bunch of these wines got baked while in transit. But I don't know.

I do know I've had some pretty nice Marcarini wines from '80s through mid '90s. But I'm not up enough on recent events there to have an opinion about current trends there. I did buy some '99s and 2001s with the hopeful notion that I'd be around in couple decades to start drinking them. Optimism is underrated.
 
The '04 Basilisco is noticeably better than the '03. The '02 is more interesting to me than the '03 as well, but in a different way. More of the black volcanic notes come out in the '02, while the '04 shows a better sense of balance on a bigger, more powerful frame. As you might expect, the '02 is the most open and nuanced of the three vintages at this time. Perhaps the '04 will show more development with time. I wouldn't think the '03 will show much down the line. A friend of mine had the '00 recently and said it was past it's drink by date. I didn't get a chance to try that bottle, though.
 
Needing a touch more acid is how I'd summarize all the Paon I've tried ('90, '95, '05) but overall I really like the wine and it's a very good value. (Not a mlawton canned asparagus in sight)

I haven't had '98 La Serra but '95 was very good. '97 was a bit fruity (as expected) without alot of depth so I wouldn't be cellaring that one too long. I'm holding a couple bottles of '96 and maybe it's time to try one.

I have a lone bottle of '98 Brunate that I'm carrying Bwood's optimism.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
TN: European sunChateau St. Anne, Bandol, 'cuvee vin de collection', 1999
This is St. Anne's, ahem, 'luxury cuvee' - a 98% mourvedre wine. This tastes like Badol that Eric T might make: mourvedre without the funk component and one of the most elegant ones I've had the pleasure of opening. There's a little woodsy mushroom on the nose, and dark chocolate covered plum, mulberry, bing cherry, slight campfire ash along with a floral lift. Very smooth, especially at this stage in life. I prefer this to the regular Bandol. B+/A- 12.5%

Mmmm... Had this wine at the domaine in '01, at which time I blurted out "confiture de framboise" before ever tasting the stuff, much to the amusement of the Dutheil youngster doing the pouring. Opened up my bottle hand-carried back from there in '06 (notes posted elsewhere) and got a bit of the funk that you failed to find (warmer cellaring perhaps?) but otherwise pretty similar impressions as yours.

Mark Lipton
 
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