Laboucari Domaine de Fontsainte 2005 Corbires (Languedoc) The spicy soul of a land, with the integrated depth of a slow-cooked sauce and a slow-rolling tingle of sizzling dark red fruit. Absolutely delicious. (6/09)
Luneau-Papin Domaine Pierre de La Grange 2004 Muscadet Svre & Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes (Muscadet) Already showing signs of maturity, its sharpness softening and its seashore minerality having coalesced into pure liquid carapace, but still quite vibrant and persistent. A passionate Muscadet. (6/09)
Jaboulet 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets (Rhne) Oppressively hard. tannic, and sharp-edged, with a touch of Band-Aid and a heart, skeleton, and musculature of charred blackness. Are these wines ever enjoyable? Does Jaboulet even make wines for people to drink anymore, or am I supposed to seal my driveway with this? (6/09)
Boutin Chteau La Roque 2004 Pic Saint Loup Cuve les vieilles vignes de Mourvdre (Languedoc) Fulsome, brown, and with a strangely appealing sour note that manages to lift all the less earthy notes to greater prominence. Thus are revealed dark blackberries and boysenberries, perhaps a bit of quince paste, and a peppery finish. Meaty and mushroomy as well. Quite solid with structure and balance. (6/09)
Wild Earth Blind Trail 2007 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) Such a pleasant, direct winesappy fruit (mostly berries), a bit of sweet earth, round-textured but with acidity, and finishing surprisingly strong. Nice. (6/09)
Cavalier Chteau de Lascaux 2005 Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc) Dark. Rosemary and earth, blackened fruit, some tar. All muscle, but not much flesh; this vintage is a little harder than is probably good for it, with layer upon layer of ripe but oppressive tannin. Will it age into something better? Maybe. (6/09)
Shipyard Pugsleys Signature Series Barley Wine-Style Ale (Maine) Heady, but not rich, with a malty/grainy tang and some spicy stone fruit. Good. Not really more than that. (6/09)
Harpoon 100 Barrel Series Helles Blond Bock (Vermont) Extremely straightforward, a bit marble-textured and hard. Kinda dull, really. (6/09)
Wellington 2004 Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley) 14.8%. Dark fruit infused with dark chocolate and coconut oak; as basic a recipe for zin as has ever been attempted. As such, it goes down easy and in utter disinterest. (6/09)
Luneau-Papin Domaine Pierre de La Grange 2004 Muscadet Svre & Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes (Muscadet) Already showing signs of maturity, its sharpness softening and its seashore minerality having coalesced into pure liquid carapace, but still quite vibrant and persistent. A passionate Muscadet. (6/09)
Jaboulet 2004 Crozes-Hermitage Les Jalets (Rhne) Oppressively hard. tannic, and sharp-edged, with a touch of Band-Aid and a heart, skeleton, and musculature of charred blackness. Are these wines ever enjoyable? Does Jaboulet even make wines for people to drink anymore, or am I supposed to seal my driveway with this? (6/09)
Boutin Chteau La Roque 2004 Pic Saint Loup Cuve les vieilles vignes de Mourvdre (Languedoc) Fulsome, brown, and with a strangely appealing sour note that manages to lift all the less earthy notes to greater prominence. Thus are revealed dark blackberries and boysenberries, perhaps a bit of quince paste, and a peppery finish. Meaty and mushroomy as well. Quite solid with structure and balance. (6/09)
Wild Earth Blind Trail 2007 Pinot Noir (Central Otago) Such a pleasant, direct winesappy fruit (mostly berries), a bit of sweet earth, round-textured but with acidity, and finishing surprisingly strong. Nice. (6/09)
Cavalier Chteau de Lascaux 2005 Coteaux du Languedoc (Languedoc) Dark. Rosemary and earth, blackened fruit, some tar. All muscle, but not much flesh; this vintage is a little harder than is probably good for it, with layer upon layer of ripe but oppressive tannin. Will it age into something better? Maybe. (6/09)
Shipyard Pugsleys Signature Series Barley Wine-Style Ale (Maine) Heady, but not rich, with a malty/grainy tang and some spicy stone fruit. Good. Not really more than that. (6/09)
Harpoon 100 Barrel Series Helles Blond Bock (Vermont) Extremely straightforward, a bit marble-textured and hard. Kinda dull, really. (6/09)
Wellington 2004 Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley) 14.8%. Dark fruit infused with dark chocolate and coconut oak; as basic a recipe for zin as has ever been attempted. As such, it goes down easy and in utter disinterest. (6/09)