RTN: Paulo in NYC (May 27, 2007)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
I never published notes on this event because four other people had said all there was to say. But, as I want this in the WD RTN repository....

Jeff

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(by Dale Williams, with comments interspersed by Paulo Faustini and Jay Miller)

(the Coadian view here)

Paulo Faustini was in town from Philadelphia. Jay Miller organized an offline Sunday to greet him. Betsy was away, and I jumped on a chance to drink good wine with nice people. We convened at La Grolla, where eventually even the perpetually late Jay arrived (that's how reps get destroyed on the internet).

A really fun night. The La Grolla staff was nice and welcoming, and the food was mostly quite good. I loved my octopus/fava/potato/tomato salad, and my main course of roast rabbit with rosemary was very tasty. The duck ragu over whole wheat pasta was a little bland. We're going back.

And to the wine:

NV Pinon Vouvray Brut - Broad apple fruit, a hint of fresh-baked bread, fun and easy. Jay determines with questioning that this is from the "very good lot" from last year.

Paulo: The Pinon was a refined apple pie mouth feel, with a refreshing zip.

2005 Ottaviano Lambruschi Colli di Luni Vermentino - I see Vermentino on the label and take a sip expecting a lighter wine. Nope. Brisk acidity, but lots of body there. Very minerally, both chalk and slate. I really like this wine, and return to it with my octopus salad.

Paulo: My Vermentino from Liguria was quite complex, with pear/nutty fruit, balanced acidity and gorgeous elegant minerality that cried out for seafood.

1996 Cazin (Le Petit Chambord) "Cuve Renaissance" Cour-Cheverny - More grapefruity than a bottle I served a couple months ago, nice balance between the sweetness and the citric bite.

Paulo: The Cour-Cheverny had a stunning golden color; beautiful honey and citrus on the palate with a clear and well structured acidity - soooo delicious.

2006 Larmes du Paradis Ros, Valle d`Aoste Rosato - Apparently about 85% nebbiolo, 15% freisa. Very light, sprightly, and elegant. Reminds me of the 2002 or 2004 Il Mimo. Jeff states he likes this better than the more recent Il Mimos; I like both styles- this is more the picnic sipper on a hot day by the river, the Il Mimo more the bigger rose to have with grilled meats.

1973 Lungarotti Rubesco - Scary to look at. Mid-shoulder fill, cork isn't just protruding, but top has expanded like a mushroom. It crumbles on removal, the strained wine is murky and unpleasant looking. But this isn't a painting, we're not looking at it, we're drinking it. And I'm shocked how alive it is. A touch high-toned, warm red fruit with notes of caramel and orange peel. A pretty tasty wine, just don't look at it.

Paulo: The Lungarotti of 1973 was mind boggling; opaque brownish/prunish color; sharp dried prune fruit at the attack, then shockingly empty on the mid palate, and then KABOOM - an overwhelmingly long hazelnut finish that is still with me today.

1964 Marchese di Villadoria Barolo Riserva - Jute bag and a pullstring! Assuming this is the same Villadoria one sees these days, currently they make inexpensive B & B for near-term consumption. But this wine in its funny packaging is really quite lovely at 43, cherry fruit remaining under the more dominant earth, tar, and saddle leather. My WOTN.

Paulo: The 64 Barolo was the oldest wine I have ever had to date (year I was born!); complex with much earthiness, dried cherry fruit and an elegant structure - a very sensual wine that made me have bad thoughts!

1974 Franco Fiorina Barbaresco Riserva - Red fruit, lifted nose, rose petals and citrus zest. Nice wine, but suffers a tad from the comparison to the 1964. Still a little tannic!

1998 Michel Lafarge Volnay - I'm a Lafarge freak, and probably liked a bit more than table. A little tight and closed at first, but opens nicely. Still some tannins, but not obtrusive to me. Red cherry fruit, a little woodsmoke and cedar, a mineral note on finish. Nice medium-weight village Volnay.

2001 Arcadian "Sleepy Hollow Vineyard" Pinot Noir (Monterey) - Big and slightly hot nose of kirsch and candy, I'm surprised based on my previous experiences of Arcadian. Nose calms with time, on revisit I find a nice if rather aggressive Pinot.

1995 Ch. Musar (Bekka Valley) - Whoa, load of VA on the nose. Proust had his madeleines, I have Musar to stimulate memories- suddenly I'm 12 and making model airplaces again. I just can't get past this nose. I hold my nose and taste, a decent if tannic and slightly coarse red. It gets better as the VA eventually mostly blows off, but my least favorite red of the night. Of course, the next bottle will be totally different.

Paulo: The 95 was sharper. I don't get the glue thing that some get - I never built planes when I was a kid!!!! Beautiful wine.

Jay: I like the 1995 Musar a lot more than Dale. I'm not especially VA sensitive and thought this a *very* pretty wine, much better than the last one I opened. Of course I also double decanted this one beforehand. That said, it was still overwhelmed by the beautiful 1991.

1991 Ch. Musar (Bekka Valley) - But on the other hand... just a slightly lifted nose, a little high-toned treat with very sweet red fruit, earth, leather, and citrus rind. With time the fruit becomes darker, with hints of cassis. One of the prettiest Musars I've run across. Of course, the next bottle will be totally different.

Paulo: I did also lose my Musar virginity with the 1991 Chateau Musar - what an elegant wine; cushiony dark fruit attack that embraced you like a gentle hug, with a beautiful subtle peppery finish - to die for.

2000 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny - Cherries and raspberries, herbs, a little tobacco. Good acidity, light tannins, good length. Gets a spicy note with time.

Jay: I liked the 2000 Rougeard 'Poyeaux' a bit less than Dale. It was nice, but not nearly as good as on release. It might be shut down but 2000 just might not be the best vintage for aging.

1996 Montevertine Riserva (Tuscan IGT) - OK, this is the part where I stopped taking any notes. Later, on the train, I wrote typical Montevertine- bright Chianti dried cherry fruit, red plums, a little cigarbox and leather.

2000 Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine (Niagara) - Apricot fruit and canned peaches, a little fat, somewhat flat. Musky, perfumey, not for me.

Jay: I liked the Inniskillin even less than Dale. DNPIM stuff.

I had a cheese plate with gorgonzola, fontina, and parmesan. Lovely evening. To make it even better, when my train pulled into station, there was a neighbor picking up a relative, so I didn't need to walk the mile+ home. Great to meet Paulo, and see everyone else.
 
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