Aging Chianti?

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Steven Spielmann

Steven Spielmann
Tonight we had a Poderi Le Boncie Chianti Classico "Le Trame" 1995. I was going to boast in passing during my perceptive tasting note about how I found this bottle for twenty bucks, but in truth that was about what it was worth. The fruit, though still present and very attractive, had faded, leaving acid as probably the dominant element. (Middling balance at this point, in other words.) There was something darker and deeper swimming around in there I rather liked - perhaps traces of the Fogliatonda she uses. So anyway, not at all a bad wine, rather good even, but not excellent.

So anyway. A lot of 'Chianti Classico Riserva' has merlot and barriques, I don't normally like that much. There are some regular CCs that seem built for aging - the 2006 Montesecondo seemed like a possible example, it was kind of tightly wound to my taste when I tried it a few weeks back but I thought 3-5 years in the cellar might do it good.

Are there any Chianti wines with the classic Sangiovese-driven character that do well for longer aging? Or should I just enjoy the ones I like young and age Brunello instead?
 
Curious, I have much less temptation to age, or even drink, most Brunello than Chianti.

But you can always fall back on Montevertine. Or Montesecondo.
 
I have had some good experiences with 'middle of the road' Brunello with say a decade of bottle age. I also have a little bit of Biondi-Santi Riserva in the cellar but it's not 30 yet so I won't try that until the time comes.

Going back to Chianti Selvapiana can age some, I guess.

Sangiovese is one of my favorite grapes in general but almost all of it gives the most enjoyment young in my experience. I guess I'm hoping to find some ones I don't know about that can go a longer distance for comparison purposes.
 
second montevertine. also, i have been very happy of late with a number of 70s and 80s cc reservas from castel'in villa.
 
I find Chianti at about 10 years to have a delicate structure a little reminiscent of old Bordeaux.

Tonight I had a 1995 Felsina Rancia Riserva, really nice, a little light in structure but perfumed and impressive.

F
 
Almost impossible to go wrong with Montevertine wines.

As far as aging, chianti goes, Felsina Rancia in the appropriate vintage, with a good amount of age can be like drinking a nice medium weight Brunello, and one that doesn't cost $60-70 a bottle.

I also had good luck with some Castellare's I Sodi Di San Niccolo years ago, although I have no idea if that was an odd outlier of an experience, or, if it was representative, if things have changed there since. I never see those wines anymore. And that wine is, I guess, an IGT anyway and not inexpensive.

What we really need is some BdM recs from Levi (and others).
 
In re the Felsina: I too have a '95 downstairs, so I'll be sure to post a note when I drink it sometime in the next couple of weeks. (I'm on a Chianti jag right now.)

Second for the Brunello recs. Especially if there are medium-strong ones with that nice fruit and not too much spoofing.
 
originally posted by Bwood:
Almost impossible to go wrong with Montevertine wines.

As far as aging, chianti goes, Felsina Rancia in the appropriate vintage, with a good amount of age can be like drinking a nice medium weight Brunello, and one that doesn't cost $60-70 a bottle.

I also had good luck with some Castellare's I Sodi Di San Niccolo years ago, although I have no idea if that was an odd outlier of an experience, or, if it was representative, if things have changed there since. I never see those wines anymore. And that wine is, I guess, an IGT anyway and not inexpensive.
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Yup, Montevertine and Felsina Rancia were my first thoughts. Nothing like conventional wisdom to advance the dialogue.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by Bwood:
Almost impossible to go wrong with Montevertine wines.

As far as aging, chianti goes, Felsina Rancia in the appropriate vintage, with a good amount of age can be like drinking a nice medium weight Brunello, and one that doesn't cost $60-70 a bottle.

I also had good luck with some Castellare's I Sodi Di San Niccolo years ago, although I have no idea if that was an odd outlier of an experience, or, if it was representative, if things have changed there since. I never see those wines anymore. And that wine is, I guess, an IGT anyway and not inexpensive.
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Yup, Montevertine and Felsina Rancia were my first thoughts. Nothing like conventional wisdom to advance the dialogue.

Mark Lipton
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I know, I know. Lately I'm stuck with the conventional choices as my access to a decent range of Italian wines is, umm, limited. And I am really running short on BdM that I can afford and find and enjoy.

Of course, suggestions in the nearly-as-nice-as-Pian-dal-Ciampolo-but-easier-to-find-and-a-little-less-expensive would be great as well. That may be asking for a lot.
 
Thanks for the link Jeff. I'm probably somewhere between you and Guy on the Felsina. Certainly it was "soft"... But if you have had much 20 year old Bordeaux you'll know what I meant, you have to look for the elegance sometimes, the assertiveness is pretty much gone but there is something very nice there regardless.
 
Mr. Bwood: In terms of Brunello, I think the style you would be drawn to most knowing your other preferences would be exemplified by Le Macioche, Scopetone, and to some extent by Canalicchio di Sopra. I mention Canalicchio di Sopra because you can still source older vintages, which can be a chore with some other producers. I think that you would really like the Le Macioche 2004 Brunello, but I bet you would object to the price as being too high. Such is the situation.

If you find some Scopetone with some age, I think you would be a happy dude.

I think that in general, vast numbers of people are overlooking that relative value of Sangiovese from Umbria and the Marche right now. Everyone seems happy to pay the Tuscan premium, even in this economy, while Sangiovese from the Marche can be the equivalent of an overacheiving Bordeaux Superieur or Haut-Medoc in terms of pricing and relative value. It really it not difficult to find delicious Sangiovese from Umbria or the Marche that can be sold at a restaurant like mine for $50 or less.

That being said, there is good Chianti out there. And there is excellent Brunello out there. It is just a matter of whether you would like to pay the Tuscan tax or whether you would rather search out alternatives.

Regarding "Le Trame" by Boncie, I also have been disappointed with the ageing curve and the very high (unbalanced) acidity sticking out over time. Which is a shame because I was a huge fan for a moment. No longer.

Regarding Rancia '95, I have sampled many bottles and some have completely starred while others have been fine and not special.

One thing I would mention, and perhaps no one here wants to hear this, but it is true, is that there is a lot of 2003 Brunello sitting around that has been deeply discounted. It is a minefield of hot alcohol, unbalanced wines, and of course, illicit blending. But if you choose wisely, you can come away with a very pleasurable bottle for a relative pittance as distributors try to make room for the much in demand 2004's. Other than that, I would probably go back to either 2001 or 1999 as vintages to look for. But both will most likely lead to a wine that is somewhat gawky in it's ageing curve, needing time in the cellar.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
Regarding "Le Trame" by Boncie, I also have been disappointed with the ageing curve and the very high (unbalanced) acidity sticking out over time. Which is a shame because I was a huge fan for a moment. No longer.
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I never managed to keep my hands off the '02s and '04s long enough to see how they would age. I thought they were amazingly good when young. Very moreish. Clean and pure and with real grip. I was a bit disappointed by the '05, though - seemed a bit soft and dark without the bright red character of the other two I tried.
 
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:
Very moreish.
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Otto, I have seen you say this before, and I don't really have a clue what you mean. Could you explain? Either it offers a lot ("more") or it has something to do with mulberries??
 
Now hold on a minute. I thought Montevertine had a fall off in quality after the 1996 vintage (a great one there, I reckon.) I did hear rumors of more recent return to form. SE Michigan had to close out various 1997s+; from release onward they seemed limp and didn't maintain freshness up to the standard I expect for this producer.

Signed,

Confused.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
much in demand 2004's.
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Are you finding '04s much in demand? I'm told that they're not really moving at retail. Personally, I haven't bought any '04 Brunello yet, expecting many sales sometime soon.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
Mr. Bwood: In terms of Brunello, I think the style you would be drawn to most knowing your other preferences would be exemplified by Le Macioche, Scopetone, and to some extent by Canalicchio di Sopra.
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What about Costanti?
 
originally posted by Asher:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
much in demand 2004's.
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Are you finding '04s much in demand? I'm told that they're not really moving at retail. Personally, I haven't bought any '04 Brunello yet, expecting many sales sometime soon.
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Stocks from distributors are rapidly depleting, in so far as I can tell.

I don't think you will see many price cuts from wholesalers.
 
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