Love that Clark Smith

S

SFJoe

Joe Dougherty
He's always a great read. Thanks to alice for the link.

"So winemakers are really confused, just when a revolution in social media is demanding clear, honest answers. More than ever, consumers have become inspired to love wine as the "one pure thing" unaltered by 20th century fiddling. The lack of straight talk from winemakers has spawned a whole generation of Internet piranhas who make a living devouring ill-prepared winemakers, the poor saps. These predators have learned they can trade on the public's growing fears of technology in winemaking's sacred ground. While wine lovers may not agree at all with these sensationalists, they can't help being drawn to their rhetoric."

 Are those fins I see in the water around here?
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Love that Clark SmithHe's always a great read. Thanks to alice for the link.

"So winemakers are really confused, just when a revolution in social media is demanding clear, honest answers. More than ever, consumers have become inspired to love wine as the "one pure thing" unaltered by 20th century fiddling. The lack of straight talk from winemakers has spawned a whole generation of Internet piranhas who make a living devouring ill-prepared winemakers, the poor saps. These predators have learned they can trade on the public's growing fears of technology in winemaking's sacred ground. While wine lovers may not agree at all with these sensationalists, they can't help being drawn to their rhetoric."

Are those fins I see in the water around here?
Click to expand...

ROFLMAO! Yeah, The Todd is really a poor, misunderstood artisan who's just been savaged -- savaged, I tell you! -- by those heartless misanthropes on Teh Interwebs. I wonder who Alice thinks that barb was intended for?

Mark Lipton
 
But, but, he's GOT QUALIFICATIONS:

... Smith graduated with a degree in enology from the University of California, Davis, in 1982 and is currently an instructor at Napa Valley College, Florida International University, Fresno State University and Missouri State University. (!)
 
Clark Smith stopped by my store last month to hawk the WineSmith wines. They were OK in their peer group but overpriced for the current market. I don't carry any but may one day carry the Cab as it would probably sell. I kept my own opinions on wine to myself. Luckily the guy talks a lot so I didn't have to say much.
 
Love some of his lines:

Filtering out alcohol is certainly a more precise and non-invasive practice than the French practice of adding beet sugar.

But he doesn't say whether it tastes good.

...there is a growing realization that the modern principles we learned in school aren't adequate to the task of making great wine...

So, um, er, like, don't do that.
 
Interesting definition of "technology." I would've dropped out of MIT as well.
Click to expand...
Indeed. "But I'm leery of anything with a power cord." Hell, at the 'tute we carried spare power cords around with us, just in case.
 
Oh, c'mon, I think he's great. At least he's arguing a position clearly.

I've never tried his wines.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Oh, c'mon, I think he's great. At least he's arguing a position clearly.

I've never tried his wines.
Click to expand...

What do you consider his position to be, Joe?
From my perspective he always seems to be arguing both ends of the issue without resolution. Kind of Point-Counterpoint done as a soliloquy.
 
Not Joe, but I consider is position to be adaptability.
Reading the article and this thread I am reminded of just how competitive, capital intensive and risky the wine business is - agriculture, being what it is.
For those who require RO or VA removal or some other process Vinovation has to offer in order to save a vintage and make it saleable, I'm sure having the choice available is a God-send, especially if your mortgage or kid's future depends on that decision.
For those who don't need it and still use it, I am less empathetic. But the market is what it is and I buy what I like and from whom I like - I assume others do to.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Not Joe, but I consider is position to be adaptability.
Reading the article and this thread I am reminded of just how competitive, capital intensive and risky the wine business is - agriculture, being what it is.
For those who require RO or VA removal or some other process Vinovation has to offer in order to save a vintage and make it saleable, I'm sure having the choice available is a God-send, especially if your mortgage or kid's future depends on that decision.
For those who don't need it and still use it, I am less empathetic. But the market is what it is and I buy what I like and from whom I like - I assume others do to.
Best, Jim
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response, Jim.
In the old days (before all these spiffy technologies) wines high in VA were blended away, bulked out, or distilled. Never seemed to be much of problem there.

I understand Clark's ambivalence.
I myself am a wayward son of the California wine industry, understand the "logic" behind the philosophy, have many friends who do what Clark does (or his use his services), etc.
But intervention really is like a drug... once you use it you come to rely on for the consistency it allows. Before too long becomes hard to wean yourself off of the stuff.
If one truly wants to work towards minimal manipulation then (as Clark sometimes professes) then a major re-think of goals and acceptable methods is necessary. "As little as possible..." is kind of a slippery slope.

Apropos of nothing, why don't you post food notes anymore?
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
Not Joe, but I consider is position to be adaptability.
Reading the article and this thread I am reminded of just how competitive, capital intensive and risky the wine business is - agriculture, being what it is.
For those who require RO or VA removal or some other process Vinovation has to offer in order to save a vintage and make it saleable, I'm sure having the choice available is a God-send, especially if your mortgage or kid's future depends on that decision.
For those who don't need it and still use it, I am less empathetic. But the market is what it is and I buy what I like and from whom I like - I assume others do to.
Best, Jim
Click to expand...

Hey Jim, and that's why I try to eliminate the personalization of wine (which I know is pretty much anathema to your worldview). I do not ever want to think about a person's mortgage or child's education when considering a wine. I just want to taste the wine as it is in the glass, mano-a-wino, human empathy be damned. You want to take the risk to make wine, I don't have a gun to your head.

They bought their ticket, I say let 'em crash.
 
originally posted by Bruce G.:
What do you consider his position to be, Joe?
From my perspective he always seems to be arguing both ends of the issue without resolution. Kind of Point-Counterpoint done as a soliloquy.
Click to expand...

Oh, you have a point, Bruce.

I think it's a bit in the way of "anything goes," combined with, "don't try this at home." So there is a tension in the view, but he has the virtue of being explicit about technique, what he's doing and why. Clearly most of his clients are still in the closet.

I should try a wine or two of his.

I also like Randall Graham's listing of ingredients on his labels. It's a standup thing to do. And pectinases don't automatically scare me, though I've had plenty of fine wines made without them.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
And pectinases don't automatically scare me, though I've had plenty of fine wines made without them.
Click to expand...

Try bringing 2 kgs. of it back through Japanese Customs in an unmarked zip-loc bag.
That'll wean you off of the stuff real quick...
 
originally posted by Thor:
Interesting definition of "technology." I would've dropped out of MIT as well.
Click to expand...
Indeed. "But I'm leery of anything with a power cord." Hell, at the 'tute we carried spare power cords around with us, just in case.
Click to expand...
Didn't U2 invent power chords? Oh..., um, er, never mind...
 
originally posted by Marc Hanes:
Hey Jim, and that's why I try to eliminate the personalization of wine (which I know is pretty much anathema to your worldview). I do not ever want to think about a person's mortgage or child's education when considering a wine. I just want to taste the wine as it is in the glass, mano-a-wino, human empathy be damned. You want to take the risk to make wine, I don't have a gun to your head.

They bought their ticket, I say let 'em crash.
Click to expand...

Marc,
Actually, we're closer than you think.
My point was not that someone who needed to save a vintage would make wine that you or I would like, but that with Clark's choices, they could make wine that someone would buy.
And when I spoke of the people involved, what I meant was that, as a consumer, I try to evaluate each producer's methods and philosophy so that, year after year, I know what I'm getting.
Sure I have a few sentimental buys, that have more to do with personality then "what's in the glass," but even then, I'm not buying folks I know do RO, or sweet spotting or any of the other processes that I feel are over-manipulation.
I feel myself lucky as a consumer; to know enough about how wine is made and the folks who make it to be able to pick-out wines I enjoy, that will pair with food and that will age. I have worked at it but it has taken a very long time to be confident. I am even luckier as a winemaker; to not be risking my house or future in the business but making choices based upon my instincts and lifestyle. If one of my ferments go awry, I have a choice whether to use Clarks' methods, bulk it off or clean the drain.
Sometimes we choose well, sometimes badly. But having a choice is huge.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Bruce G.:
I understand Clark's ambivalence.
I myself am a wayward son of the California wine industry, understand the "logic" behind the philosophy, have many friends who do what Clark does (or his use his services), etc.
But intervention really is like a drug... once you use it you come to rely on for the consistency it allows. Before too long becomes hard to wean yourself off of the stuff.
If one truly wants to work towards minimal manipulation then (as Clark sometimes professes) then a major re-think of goals and acceptable methods is necessary. "As little as possible..." is kind of a slippery slope.

Apropos of nothing, why don't you post food notes anymore?
Click to expand...

Regarding the food notes; they appear a little more these days and in the future, although I try to keep my notes focused on the wine.

I understand the drug analogy; of course, if consistency is what a winemaker is looking for, you and I are not his/her target demographic. I think we both are looking for the kind of transparency in wine that allows for vintage variation.
That said, there is plenty of market space for makers and consumers who prefer or even demand consistency (MacDonalds-like uniformity, if you will). If someone can make a living providing that kind of wine to such folks, bless their hearts.
Simply put, my opinion of how to make wine and which wines are good, is not right. Its just my opinion.
So Clark fills a need; probably not for me but then, that's only because that's my choice.
Best, Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top