TN: alcohol and lightness

[MarkS]

Some recent wines make me rethink the paradigm that hipster wines (e.g., wines sold from places like CSW and the ilk) are "alcohol-free" because they are not from California or Australia. It is my contention that any wine can have alcohol peek-through in ways surpassing understanding.

Ottaviano Lambruschi, Colli di Luni, Vermentino 'Costa Marina', 2006
Glistening soft, transparent gold colored. Herbal aromas: fresh oregano, sage, marjoram, and saline lemon mint. Herbs and that saline lemon show through on the palate and intensify on the end. A medicinal alcoholic aftershave lotion comes through on the finish, along with some gin/juniper, slight pine needle. Sappy, but unfortunately, the wine is marred by high alcohol (14%) that never lets you forget it is there in this $50/bottle wine. Which is too bad, because this is a beautiful. unique wine. A-

Jacques Puffeney, Arbois, Poulsard, 2005
Rather dark strawberry red colored for a poulsard, which is usually a true orange-colored wine. Nose of rubbing alcohol and strawberry greens. Alcohol, tart acid, and a slight tart strawberry note on the palate which finishes with a surprising kick of tannin at the end. Although pleasing, not a lot of complexity or character, only some pleasant strawberry and cranberry notes. Obviously works better with food, especially the Fontina cheese I ate with it, but even at 13.5%. the alcohol manifests itself in a most unwiedly way. B to slight B+. Not sure how different Puffeney's designations are, but there is another Poulsard 'M' which may or may not be better.

 

[Florida Jim]

Mark,
It bothers me to see this kind of a note about the Costa Marina. Although I don't recall the vintage, this was the wine that changed my paradigm of Italian whites. I can't afford the stuff anymore but it still bothers me to see this trend.
Puffeney's wines are all over the lot, if you ask me. I still like them quite a lot but I don't look for consistency, especially vintage by vintage. Maybe that is their charm.
Best, Jim

 

[Kay Bixler]

My experience with the Puffeney has been quite different. Maybe a little rustic but totally seamless and overall pretty elegant. Agree the '05 has more color than the past few years.

 

[slaton]

I'm disappointed to read your note on the Costa Marina as I picked one up in the big CSW sale last year. Do you recommend drinking sooner rather than later? Typically I'd expect that with further age the alcohol will only become more apparent.

And my experience have been that Puffeney was more successful (better freshness and balance) in 2003 than 2005. As has been stated here before.

 

[Cliff]

originally posted by slaton:
And my experience have been that Puffeney was more successful (better freshness and balance) in 2003 than 2005. As has been stated here before.

Ditto

 

[MarkS]

originally posted by slaton:
I'm disappointed to read your note on the Costa Marina as I picked one up in the big CSW sale last year. Do you recommend drinking sooner rather than later? Typically I'd expect that with further age the alcohol will only become more apparent.

And my experience have been that Puffeney was more successful (better freshness and balance) in 2003 than 2005. As has been stated here before.

Interesting about Puffeney. I must have been on hiatus when that discussion occured.

You know, I hope you and Fla Jim don't get me wrong, the Lambruschi is an extremely beautiful wine, one that were it slightly cheaper, I would probably buy a bottle or two every year to check in on. The wine should keep well for anywhere from 2-5 years, because it does have good acid structure and stuffing. What caught me off guard was the combination of lightness of feeling with that dose of alcohol (like Menen After shave) in the mix, but other than that the balance was impeccable. I have a Sarticola from the same year so it'll be interesting to contrast, but I'm not going to open that until next summer in all likelihood.

Hope this helps.

 

[Levi Dalton]

I would recommend more time with Lambruschi '06, rather than less. Not that there are tons of bottles ageing in my apartment or anything, but rather just my supposition from [limited] experience.

I guess my question is, at what temperature do the notes listed above apply?

Also, I would point out that Lambruschi, however wonderful, may not perhaps be the end all be all of Italian Vermentino, something I hope to illustrate further at the It's Summer, Show Me Some Skin!! orange wine/skin contact white event that is forthcoming at an Italian restaurant I know of.