Brovia Tasting with Elena Brovia and Alex Sanchez
2024 Fratelli Brovia Roero Arneis: A very nice nose with aromas of peaches an freshly cut white flowers. Tart and crisp on the palate with juicy white fruit, minerals, and an interesting herbal streak. Firm acidity and very refreshing.
2023 Fratelli Brovia Barbera d'Alba Sorì del Drago: Very ripe, fruit dark cherry on the nose. The palate has sappy red fruit and a touch of earthiness, buoyed by a refreshing acidity. Basically no tannins (thus no bitterness or astringency). Nice, straightforward red wine, a bit voluptuous and ripe, but not flabby either.
2022 Fratelli Brovia Langhe Nebbiolo Langhe Nebbiolo: Nice floral nose that has aromas of red cherry and roses. The palate is elegant, with juicy red fruit, and notes of dark earth, charcoal, and mineral complexity. Fresh and tangy, and light on the palate. Grippy, but approachable. Probably best to eat this with food if you open up a bottle soon.
This is the first vintage of the "Langhe Nebbiolo." Alex Sanchez noted that they had to declassify because they started to use fruit from outside of Alba. I believe he said this is because they stopped purchasing negociant fruit, which was all sourced within Alba. For this bottling, they now only use fruit from domain-owned vineyards, some of which are located outside of Alba. So, 2021 will be the last "Nebbiolo d'Alba" that will be produced by Brovia.
2021 Fratelli Brovia Barolo: A sharp and lifted, tar-inflected nose of sweet red cherry. There is a deep mid-palate with pronounced, juicy red fruit over a substrate of dark, earthy minerality, which culminates into a long finish. Despite the astringent bite to the tannins, this is already quite approachable. The buoyant fruit is balanced by the tension from the ripe acidity. It also clearly has the structure to age a bit. A very nice wine.
Apparently 20-30% of the Classico comes from cru fruit. Essentially, each cru owned by Brovia is vinified separately, and they only fill a single 40 hectoliter cask for cru. Any excess juice gets put into the Classico.
2021 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Brea Vigna Ca'mia: A little closed on the nose initially, but with some aggressive swirling in the glass, it opens up, unfurling dark cherry aromas infused with scents of roses and herbs. Very subtle and complex, with less overt fruit aromas than the Classico. On the palate, there is darker red fruit inflected with ferrous, gamey flavors framed with juicy acidity and ripe, round tannins that are not too drying or astringent. The mid-palate is quite deep and intense, but still tightly coiled. However, on the finish, there is a streak of warm baking spices and herbs that punches through. Despite being so young and ripe, the bright acidity provides freshness, and it still is in a relatively open phase right now. Really delicious.
More Italian
2017 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo: Corked.
2021 Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo: Feels more extracted than a typical rose; much more like a light-bodied red wine. Very fresh, linear and minerally, with a hint of crunchy red fruit and herbs. Very nice acidity. Punches way above its price point. A lovely wine that is quite dry, serious and vinous.
2004 Bel Colle Barolo Riserva Monvigliero: This has evolved firmly into generic old red wine territory. Not dead, with plenty of acidity, but definitely wasn't able to tell that this was a Barolo. Slightly tired with dried fruit and some rust. Could be an off bottle or not stored properly.
1998 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Lago: Very big, full-bodied and structured with quite a bit of drying tannins still left to resolved. However, it does have bright, fresh acidity, earthy flavors, and interesting red fruit on the palate. Had this blind and guessed Italian (specifically Sagrantino). Turned out to be a big and ripe Sangiovese.
Domestic
2019 Stereophonic Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Untrue Mader: I had this blind and I could instantly tell this was Cabernet Sauvignon on the palate, with its bright, sunny purple fruit interlaced with hints of cured tobacco and smoke. I guessed New World, but made in a tasteful style with freshness and restrained fruit. Not quite old-school Napa Cabernet, but made by someone with a sensibility that appreciates that style. Nicely made.
2023 Vineyard of Pasterick Viognier: Tastes like Viognier: floral nose with ripe, peachy yellow fruit and lots of oily viscosity and low acidity. A bit flabby for me, but definitely archetypal of the variety.
Champagne
NV Chavost Champagne Blanc de Meunier Brut Nature: Richer, denser, and more intense than another bottle of Chavost I had earlier this month (which I found rather insipid). In contrast, this bottling is quite good, with plenty of minerality and acidity to contrast with the white fruit. Pretty good.
NV Pierre Moncuit Champagne Delos Brut: Had this blind and could tell instantly that this was a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. Really nice balance, on the richer side for a Blanc de Blancs, though the acidity is bright and lively and I got mainly citrus and chalk on the palate. I guessed Aube, but turned out to be from Les Mesnil-sur-Oger. Good stuff.
2014 Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée du Goulté Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut: This started out a little strict, linear, and austere, but it really started to sing after being in the glass for a little bit. Really bright, incisive acidity, plenty of citrus with hints of red fruit, and loads of mineral goodness graced with an interesting oxidative character. On the more linear side, especially considering this is 100% Pinot Noir, but really interesting and complex; razor sharp and laser focused.
2015 Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée du Goulté Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut: Riper and more accessible than the 2014 Cuvee du Goulte from the get go. More green apple, much more breadth and fleshiness to the palate, though it shares that oxidative style. Very easy-drinking at the beginning, though with time in the glass, it starts to taste a little flabby and I wish the acidity was a bit brighter and livelier. Still a good wine, but a step behind the incisive 2014 served next to it.
Bordeaux
2016 Château Haut-Bailly: Nice aromas of cassis on the nose, the palate is primarily dark purple fruit with a hint of scorched earth. Quite a bit of tannin on the finish. I had this blind and I initially guessed a 2010 Bordeaux because of the ripe fruit characteristic, chewy, slightly viscous texture, and youthful, astringent tannins. Part of me also was thinking Pessac-Leognan because of that scorched earth and charcoal, though I wished that was more prominent on the palate. Surprised this was a 2016; I would have guessed it would be a bit fresher and less overtly ripe. Surprisingly open though considering its 10 years old, which I would have thought would be the prime shut down period.
2024 Fratelli Brovia Roero Arneis: A very nice nose with aromas of peaches an freshly cut white flowers. Tart and crisp on the palate with juicy white fruit, minerals, and an interesting herbal streak. Firm acidity and very refreshing.
2023 Fratelli Brovia Barbera d'Alba Sorì del Drago: Very ripe, fruit dark cherry on the nose. The palate has sappy red fruit and a touch of earthiness, buoyed by a refreshing acidity. Basically no tannins (thus no bitterness or astringency). Nice, straightforward red wine, a bit voluptuous and ripe, but not flabby either.
2022 Fratelli Brovia Langhe Nebbiolo Langhe Nebbiolo: Nice floral nose that has aromas of red cherry and roses. The palate is elegant, with juicy red fruit, and notes of dark earth, charcoal, and mineral complexity. Fresh and tangy, and light on the palate. Grippy, but approachable. Probably best to eat this with food if you open up a bottle soon.
This is the first vintage of the "Langhe Nebbiolo." Alex Sanchez noted that they had to declassify because they started to use fruit from outside of Alba. I believe he said this is because they stopped purchasing negociant fruit, which was all sourced within Alba. For this bottling, they now only use fruit from domain-owned vineyards, some of which are located outside of Alba. So, 2021 will be the last "Nebbiolo d'Alba" that will be produced by Brovia.
2021 Fratelli Brovia Barolo: A sharp and lifted, tar-inflected nose of sweet red cherry. There is a deep mid-palate with pronounced, juicy red fruit over a substrate of dark, earthy minerality, which culminates into a long finish. Despite the astringent bite to the tannins, this is already quite approachable. The buoyant fruit is balanced by the tension from the ripe acidity. It also clearly has the structure to age a bit. A very nice wine.
Apparently 20-30% of the Classico comes from cru fruit. Essentially, each cru owned by Brovia is vinified separately, and they only fill a single 40 hectoliter cask for cru. Any excess juice gets put into the Classico.
2021 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Brea Vigna Ca'mia: A little closed on the nose initially, but with some aggressive swirling in the glass, it opens up, unfurling dark cherry aromas infused with scents of roses and herbs. Very subtle and complex, with less overt fruit aromas than the Classico. On the palate, there is darker red fruit inflected with ferrous, gamey flavors framed with juicy acidity and ripe, round tannins that are not too drying or astringent. The mid-palate is quite deep and intense, but still tightly coiled. However, on the finish, there is a streak of warm baking spices and herbs that punches through. Despite being so young and ripe, the bright acidity provides freshness, and it still is in a relatively open phase right now. Really delicious.
More Italian
2017 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo: Corked.
2021 Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo: Feels more extracted than a typical rose; much more like a light-bodied red wine. Very fresh, linear and minerally, with a hint of crunchy red fruit and herbs. Very nice acidity. Punches way above its price point. A lovely wine that is quite dry, serious and vinous.
2004 Bel Colle Barolo Riserva Monvigliero: This has evolved firmly into generic old red wine territory. Not dead, with plenty of acidity, but definitely wasn't able to tell that this was a Barolo. Slightly tired with dried fruit and some rust. Could be an off bottle or not stored properly.
1998 Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Lago: Very big, full-bodied and structured with quite a bit of drying tannins still left to resolved. However, it does have bright, fresh acidity, earthy flavors, and interesting red fruit on the palate. Had this blind and guessed Italian (specifically Sagrantino). Turned out to be a big and ripe Sangiovese.
Domestic
2019 Stereophonic Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Untrue Mader: I had this blind and I could instantly tell this was Cabernet Sauvignon on the palate, with its bright, sunny purple fruit interlaced with hints of cured tobacco and smoke. I guessed New World, but made in a tasteful style with freshness and restrained fruit. Not quite old-school Napa Cabernet, but made by someone with a sensibility that appreciates that style. Nicely made.
2023 Vineyard of Pasterick Viognier: Tastes like Viognier: floral nose with ripe, peachy yellow fruit and lots of oily viscosity and low acidity. A bit flabby for me, but definitely archetypal of the variety.
Champagne
NV Chavost Champagne Blanc de Meunier Brut Nature: Richer, denser, and more intense than another bottle of Chavost I had earlier this month (which I found rather insipid). In contrast, this bottling is quite good, with plenty of minerality and acidity to contrast with the white fruit. Pretty good.
NV Pierre Moncuit Champagne Delos Brut: Had this blind and could tell instantly that this was a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. Really nice balance, on the richer side for a Blanc de Blancs, though the acidity is bright and lively and I got mainly citrus and chalk on the palate. I guessed Aube, but turned out to be from Les Mesnil-sur-Oger. Good stuff.
2014 Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée du Goulté Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut: This started out a little strict, linear, and austere, but it really started to sing after being in the glass for a little bit. Really bright, incisive acidity, plenty of citrus with hints of red fruit, and loads of mineral goodness graced with an interesting oxidative character. On the more linear side, especially considering this is 100% Pinot Noir, but really interesting and complex; razor sharp and laser focused.
2015 Marie-Noëlle Ledru Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée du Goulté Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut: Riper and more accessible than the 2014 Cuvee du Goulte from the get go. More green apple, much more breadth and fleshiness to the palate, though it shares that oxidative style. Very easy-drinking at the beginning, though with time in the glass, it starts to taste a little flabby and I wish the acidity was a bit brighter and livelier. Still a good wine, but a step behind the incisive 2014 served next to it.
Bordeaux
2016 Château Haut-Bailly: Nice aromas of cassis on the nose, the palate is primarily dark purple fruit with a hint of scorched earth. Quite a bit of tannin on the finish. I had this blind and I initially guessed a 2010 Bordeaux because of the ripe fruit characteristic, chewy, slightly viscous texture, and youthful, astringent tannins. Part of me also was thinking Pessac-Leognan because of that scorched earth and charcoal, though I wished that was more prominent on the palate. Surprised this was a 2016; I would have guessed it would be a bit fresher and less overtly ripe. Surprisingly open though considering its 10 years old, which I would have thought would be the prime shut down period.