Riesling
2005 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Auction #2: Beautiful golden robe. Nice nose of yellow orchard fruit. Deep, rich palate that has a nice dose of acidity to balance the sweetness. There's a hint of bitterness and some fine honeyed notes, but not too much overt apricot from the botrytis. Very clean and light on the palate. A really delicious dessert wine.
2024 Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett: This is drinking really nicely. Good acidity that balances the residual sugar, quite lively on the palate, with juicy white fruit. Rather open and giving right now. Great value.
2023 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben "Gisela" #8: I thought this was a little tightly clenched at this point, and was not as giving as the '23 Mia I had alongside it. I think this was also affected by having the '24 Gisela next to it, which had much livelier acidity. This came across as a little flabby in comparison. But, definitely tauter than the '22. I still think this is a good wine, but just doesn't have the vigor or cut of the '21 or '24.
2023 Hofgut Falkenstein Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben "Mia" #22: This is much more open, giving, and accessible than the '23 Gisela at this point. Bright, white fruited, light and delicate. I think the acidity is on point, but other folks at the table felt this came across as flabby compared to the '24s from a variety of other producers (including a '24 Gisela). There is truth to that, but taken on its own terms, I found this quite satisfying and easy to drink.
2024 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben "Gisela" #8: This seems a little tighter than when I had it a couple of months ago. It still possesses that light weight on the palate and airy texture, but the acidity seems a bit more forward and the white fruit and lime-driven citrus flavors are a little more reticent. Great depth and intensity on the palate, but it might be shutting down already compared to how open this was back in October.
2024 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett: This was a little simple, thin and uninteresting compared to the denser, more intense '24 Mosel Kabinetts we had next to it. Clearly from less interesting terroir than the '24 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, which vastly outperformed this wine with respect to aromatic and palate complexity.
2024 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese: A little bit of reduction on the nose obscuring aromas of white flowers, wet slate, and peaches. Light and filigreed on the palate, but with intense, ripe white fruit layered under a very stony mineral quality. Acidity is bright and taut, and there's a subtle saline note on the finish. Really delicious and far outclasses the '24 Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett.
2024 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett: This already has a very expressive nose of white flowers, green apples, and wet rocks. The palate is initially fairly open, with this airy texture, cool stoniness, and white fruit with sharp acidity. Very imposing and intense on the palate; definitely has this blue slate quality to it. It does clamp down on the palate with time in the glass, so I imagine this will shut down fairly hard, but right now, catch it while it is still open.
2024 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett #2: Very accessible already, with the classic filigreed precision and light-on-its feet Schaefer weight without the density and coiled tightness I often find in the young Graacher Domprobst Kabinett. It was also interesting tasting this alongside the '24 Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, which had a cooler, "blue" slate character to it while this wine is a lot warmer and burnished in comparison, with a sunnier white fruit and more brightness. Quite joyous and easy to drink at this point, with the acidity providing lift without being overly aggressive.
2024 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #3: This seems a little tight and coiled at this point. It has a nice burnished quality to its palate: bright white fruit, lively acidity, hints of citrus, herbs, and spice, but everything seems a little reticent on the palate right now. Very dense and intense on the palate, texturally already featherlight and airy, but it just needs some time to unlock its potential.
2024 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5: Surprisingly, this came across as more open than the 2024 Domprobst Kabinett. The 2024 acidity provides a nice balance to the residual sugar, which comes across as sweet, but not cloying or syrupy. The white fruit is very bright, with notes of warm baking spices and some herbs mixed in. Despite being denser and sweeter than the off-dry Kabinetts, this still has that airiness I expect from Schaefer wines, and there is plenty of precision and clarity on the palate. Really nice, and I can't wait to see how this evolves over the next 15-20 years or so.
Dessert
1971 Château de Rayne-Vigneau: Quite dark in the glass. A little tight on the nose, but the palate has classic Sauternes tertiary notes of honey, apricot, and dried fruit. Acidity is quite bright, though perhaps the flavors are a little too straightfoward and simple. Still, clearly an enjoyable and well made dessert wine.
1994 Talley Vineyards Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc: A very fun curiosity. I had this blind and I guessed it was some type of Sauternes based on it dark, amber robe, decent acidity, brightness, and honeyed citrus and dried apricot profile. It tasted rather clean and mellow, however, and it did not seem to be heavily botrytized. It also did not quite have the luscious, unctuous texture; a little lighter and less dense on the palate. Pretty much ready to drink as is.
Discovering that this was a New World late harvest dessert Sauvignon Blanc was fun, and at least I wasn't too far off on the grape varieties involved. I don't even think Talley Vineywards makes a Sauvginon Blanc anymore. From 375.
2011 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Noble Late Harvest: A fun contrast with the 1994 Talley Vineyards Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. This was much darker in color, sweeter, more intense with dark raisinated fruit, caramel and Christmas spice notes. It quite frankly could have used more acidity to provide better balance. However, not bad, though I preferred the better-balanced Talley.
2005 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Auction #2: Beautiful golden robe. Nice nose of yellow orchard fruit. Deep, rich palate that has a nice dose of acidity to balance the sweetness. There's a hint of bitterness and some fine honeyed notes, but not too much overt apricot from the botrytis. Very clean and light on the palate. A really delicious dessert wine.
2024 Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett: This is drinking really nicely. Good acidity that balances the residual sugar, quite lively on the palate, with juicy white fruit. Rather open and giving right now. Great value.
2023 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben "Gisela" #8: I thought this was a little tightly clenched at this point, and was not as giving as the '23 Mia I had alongside it. I think this was also affected by having the '24 Gisela next to it, which had much livelier acidity. This came across as a little flabby in comparison. But, definitely tauter than the '22. I still think this is a good wine, but just doesn't have the vigor or cut of the '21 or '24.
2023 Hofgut Falkenstein Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben "Mia" #22: This is much more open, giving, and accessible than the '23 Gisela at this point. Bright, white fruited, light and delicate. I think the acidity is on point, but other folks at the table felt this came across as flabby compared to the '24s from a variety of other producers (including a '24 Gisela). There is truth to that, but taken on its own terms, I found this quite satisfying and easy to drink.
2024 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben "Gisela" #8: This seems a little tighter than when I had it a couple of months ago. It still possesses that light weight on the palate and airy texture, but the acidity seems a bit more forward and the white fruit and lime-driven citrus flavors are a little more reticent. Great depth and intensity on the palate, but it might be shutting down already compared to how open this was back in October.
2024 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett: This was a little simple, thin and uninteresting compared to the denser, more intense '24 Mosel Kabinetts we had next to it. Clearly from less interesting terroir than the '24 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, which vastly outperformed this wine with respect to aromatic and palate complexity.
2024 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese: A little bit of reduction on the nose obscuring aromas of white flowers, wet slate, and peaches. Light and filigreed on the palate, but with intense, ripe white fruit layered under a very stony mineral quality. Acidity is bright and taut, and there's a subtle saline note on the finish. Really delicious and far outclasses the '24 Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett.
2024 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett: This already has a very expressive nose of white flowers, green apples, and wet rocks. The palate is initially fairly open, with this airy texture, cool stoniness, and white fruit with sharp acidity. Very imposing and intense on the palate; definitely has this blue slate quality to it. It does clamp down on the palate with time in the glass, so I imagine this will shut down fairly hard, but right now, catch it while it is still open.
2024 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett #2: Very accessible already, with the classic filigreed precision and light-on-its feet Schaefer weight without the density and coiled tightness I often find in the young Graacher Domprobst Kabinett. It was also interesting tasting this alongside the '24 Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, which had a cooler, "blue" slate character to it while this wine is a lot warmer and burnished in comparison, with a sunnier white fruit and more brightness. Quite joyous and easy to drink at this point, with the acidity providing lift without being overly aggressive.
2024 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #3: This seems a little tight and coiled at this point. It has a nice burnished quality to its palate: bright white fruit, lively acidity, hints of citrus, herbs, and spice, but everything seems a little reticent on the palate right now. Very dense and intense on the palate, texturally already featherlight and airy, but it just needs some time to unlock its potential.
2024 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5: Surprisingly, this came across as more open than the 2024 Domprobst Kabinett. The 2024 acidity provides a nice balance to the residual sugar, which comes across as sweet, but not cloying or syrupy. The white fruit is very bright, with notes of warm baking spices and some herbs mixed in. Despite being denser and sweeter than the off-dry Kabinetts, this still has that airiness I expect from Schaefer wines, and there is plenty of precision and clarity on the palate. Really nice, and I can't wait to see how this evolves over the next 15-20 years or so.
Dessert
1971 Château de Rayne-Vigneau: Quite dark in the glass. A little tight on the nose, but the palate has classic Sauternes tertiary notes of honey, apricot, and dried fruit. Acidity is quite bright, though perhaps the flavors are a little too straightfoward and simple. Still, clearly an enjoyable and well made dessert wine.
1994 Talley Vineyards Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc: A very fun curiosity. I had this blind and I guessed it was some type of Sauternes based on it dark, amber robe, decent acidity, brightness, and honeyed citrus and dried apricot profile. It tasted rather clean and mellow, however, and it did not seem to be heavily botrytized. It also did not quite have the luscious, unctuous texture; a little lighter and less dense on the palate. Pretty much ready to drink as is.
Discovering that this was a New World late harvest dessert Sauvignon Blanc was fun, and at least I wasn't too far off on the grape varieties involved. I don't even think Talley Vineywards makes a Sauvginon Blanc anymore. From 375.
2011 Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Noble Late Harvest: A fun contrast with the 1994 Talley Vineyards Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. This was much darker in color, sweeter, more intense with dark raisinated fruit, caramel and Christmas spice notes. It quite frankly could have used more acidity to provide better balance. However, not bad, though I preferred the better-balanced Talley.
