Ollivier Domaine de la Ppire 1998 Muscadet Svre & Maine Sur Lie (Loire) Note: this is the normale, not any of the cuveesand no, aging it this long wasnt the intention. But as random cellar finds go, this is actually pretty interesting: fully given over to wet, almost salty seashells, with mild to medium oxidation (responses will differ) and a tan tinge to the finish. Rather than gaining complexity, this has instead moved to a different realm of simplicity than it inhabited in its youth, which isnt necessarily unusual for Muscadet. But in any case, I dont think Id recommend ten years aging for this wine. (7/09)
A&M/Stphane Tissot Crmant du Jura Brut (Jura) Tastes like skin, and smells like the dried nut residue from a long-empty tin of peanuts. A bit stale and really, really boring. Damaged? Mildly corked? If so, theres no sign of either. But a half-glass is more than enough. (7/09)
J. Lassalle Champagne 1er Cru Brut Ros Rserve des Grandes Annes (Champagne) Bubbles aside, this could be a somewhat mature red Burgundy from a lesser appellation Givry, perhaps for all the earthy, mushroomy softness to its red fruit. Theres a fullness that combats against this sensation of age, and a hint of orange rind for focus, but this is compelling as much for its otherness as for its characteristics. A lovely wine, perhaps more so than a Champagne. (7/09)
Dubourdieu Chteau Graville-Lacoste 2008 Graves Blanc (Bordeaux) Green and almost minty, but turning more to lemon curd and salt on the palate. The wines a bit of a helix right now, and probably needs some time to screw itself together. (7/09)
Crochet 2008 Sancerre Pinot Ros (Loire) Zapped raspberry and strawberry husk, with powdery layers of dusty minerality and some green leaves in the mix. Its nice enough, but it never really goes anywhere interesting; still, it lacks the balance issues that plague so many ross. (7/09)
Eugne Meyer 2007 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) Theres a hint of skin bitterness underneath the stone fruit, which I like, and some icy minerality, which I really like. The tradeoff is, of course, less intense and sticky fruit than the norm, but its still plenty aggressivetheres no leeching that from the grapenor is it entirely dry, though it can pass in a pinch and with the right (covering) food-sweetness. This is by no means a great gewrztraminer, but it is a pleasant one. (7/09)
Mallo 2002 Riesling Rosacker (Alsace) The minerality of the vineyard, reminiscent of the sea yet crystalline and vibrant, is fully present. Theres fine acidity and good length. I just wish there was the will to push the boundaries a bita little more intensity in the vineyard, a little less happified sweetness in the finished product. An underachievement, albeit a tasty one. (7/09)
Luneau-Papin Domaine Pierre de La Grange 2004 Muscadet Svre & Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes (Loire) Already showing movement in its broadening, fuller palate and increasingly shell-like minerality. Its still sharp and forward, but less direct than it was in its youth. Long, columnar, and delicious. Theres more time left in it, but its very enjoyable now. (7/09)
A&B Cazes 1995 Rivesaltes Ambr (Roussillon) From 375 ml. Candy corn, old brown sugar, maple residue, and a reasonable layer of oxidation. Fairly acidic at the moment, though this may be through the diminishment of other characteristics more than an attempt at balancing the sweetness. Just OK. (7/09)
A&M/Stphane Tissot Crmant du Jura Brut (Jura) Tastes like skin, and smells like the dried nut residue from a long-empty tin of peanuts. A bit stale and really, really boring. Damaged? Mildly corked? If so, theres no sign of either. But a half-glass is more than enough. (7/09)
J. Lassalle Champagne 1er Cru Brut Ros Rserve des Grandes Annes (Champagne) Bubbles aside, this could be a somewhat mature red Burgundy from a lesser appellation Givry, perhaps for all the earthy, mushroomy softness to its red fruit. Theres a fullness that combats against this sensation of age, and a hint of orange rind for focus, but this is compelling as much for its otherness as for its characteristics. A lovely wine, perhaps more so than a Champagne. (7/09)
Dubourdieu Chteau Graville-Lacoste 2008 Graves Blanc (Bordeaux) Green and almost minty, but turning more to lemon curd and salt on the palate. The wines a bit of a helix right now, and probably needs some time to screw itself together. (7/09)
Crochet 2008 Sancerre Pinot Ros (Loire) Zapped raspberry and strawberry husk, with powdery layers of dusty minerality and some green leaves in the mix. Its nice enough, but it never really goes anywhere interesting; still, it lacks the balance issues that plague so many ross. (7/09)
Eugne Meyer 2007 Gewurztraminer (Alsace) Theres a hint of skin bitterness underneath the stone fruit, which I like, and some icy minerality, which I really like. The tradeoff is, of course, less intense and sticky fruit than the norm, but its still plenty aggressivetheres no leeching that from the grapenor is it entirely dry, though it can pass in a pinch and with the right (covering) food-sweetness. This is by no means a great gewrztraminer, but it is a pleasant one. (7/09)
Mallo 2002 Riesling Rosacker (Alsace) The minerality of the vineyard, reminiscent of the sea yet crystalline and vibrant, is fully present. Theres fine acidity and good length. I just wish there was the will to push the boundaries a bita little more intensity in the vineyard, a little less happified sweetness in the finished product. An underachievement, albeit a tasty one. (7/09)
Luneau-Papin Domaine Pierre de La Grange 2004 Muscadet Svre & Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes (Loire) Already showing movement in its broadening, fuller palate and increasingly shell-like minerality. Its still sharp and forward, but less direct than it was in its youth. Long, columnar, and delicious. Theres more time left in it, but its very enjoyable now. (7/09)
A&B Cazes 1995 Rivesaltes Ambr (Roussillon) From 375 ml. Candy corn, old brown sugar, maple residue, and a reasonable layer of oxidation. Fairly acidic at the moment, though this may be through the diminishment of other characteristics more than an attempt at balancing the sweetness. Just OK. (7/09)