Ferrando 2007 Canavese Rosso La Torrozza (Piedmont) Fulsome and juicy; an explosion of mixed berries (red and black) with clover, just a hint of tar, and a slushy swath of acidity. Theres a slightly acrid overlay thats just a little off-putting, and detracts from the boisterous pleasure, but its still a most enjoyable wine. Watch that acridity, though, because I dont think its going to improve as the wine lingers. (7/09)
Brovia 2006 Dolcetto dAbla Vignavillej (Piedmont) Muted, musty, and very cranky at uncorking. It takes a long while to unfold, and even an hour doesnt quite achieve full openness, but the wine isnt corkedjust surly. There are coffee elements amongst the wild-vine helixes of barky fruit, but mostly this is showing structure (both tannin and acidity) and rough, wild-eyed gestures of warning: stay away. I know these wines age, but Ive rarely tasted one so in need of a good rest. (7/09)
Bisson 2007 Golfo del Tigullio Bianchetta Genovese Pastine (Liguria) Standoffish, detergent-textured froth and whiteness, slightly floral and pinched. The foam is spicy, in the manner of a less aggressive txakolina, but the finish is short. Among the four people sharing the wine, it proves controversial: two in favor, two opposed. Which makes me like it even more. (7/09)
Bisson 2007 Golfo del Tigullio Ciliegiolo Ros (Liguria) Delicate perfume poised between sea, sky, and slope. Fine-edged strawberry, floral but not overly perfumed, with flinty minerality. Quite pretty. (7/09)
Cantarutti 2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Ribolla Gialla (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) Pretty classic, straightforward ribolla, with the weight, skin tones, and mild oxidation one expects. A little leafy tarragon, old rocks, a yellowish hazeits all there. The finish is short. A basic wine. (7/09)
Brovia 2006 Dolcetto dAbla Vignavillej (Piedmont) Muted, musty, and very cranky at uncorking. It takes a long while to unfold, and even an hour doesnt quite achieve full openness, but the wine isnt corkedjust surly. There are coffee elements amongst the wild-vine helixes of barky fruit, but mostly this is showing structure (both tannin and acidity) and rough, wild-eyed gestures of warning: stay away. I know these wines age, but Ive rarely tasted one so in need of a good rest. (7/09)
Bisson 2007 Golfo del Tigullio Bianchetta Genovese Pastine (Liguria) Standoffish, detergent-textured froth and whiteness, slightly floral and pinched. The foam is spicy, in the manner of a less aggressive txakolina, but the finish is short. Among the four people sharing the wine, it proves controversial: two in favor, two opposed. Which makes me like it even more. (7/09)
Bisson 2007 Golfo del Tigullio Ciliegiolo Ros (Liguria) Delicate perfume poised between sea, sky, and slope. Fine-edged strawberry, floral but not overly perfumed, with flinty minerality. Quite pretty. (7/09)
Cantarutti 2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli Ribolla Gialla (Friuli-Venezia Giulia) Pretty classic, straightforward ribolla, with the weight, skin tones, and mild oxidation one expects. A little leafy tarragon, old rocks, a yellowish hazeits all there. The finish is short. A basic wine. (7/09)