TN: Miscellaneous July notes

Abadia Retuerta Sardon de Duero Rvola 2001
A bottle I opened for my sister and her new boyfriend Urs. Virtually unchanged since last year, this tastes exactly like what it is, a healthy-looking blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon from a great vintage, grown on limestone-rich soil, aged 10 months in French and American oak, and bottled unfiltered only that the oak is merely showing in form of a polished rounding-off to tannin and fruit anymore at this stage, and the CS in a faint blackcurranty-syrupy top note that seems to give the wine additional youthfulness. Quite complex, fruity, fairly, minerally, and very long especially for a wine in this price category (about 10 USD at the time). I had expected greater sympathy for the ancient-styled Rouliers (if only because I could wallow in Henri Bonneaus wines), but my guests preferred the Rvola. Rating: 89-/88

Henri Bonneau et Fils Vin de Table de France Les Rouliers L 05.06-03/02
A bottle I opened for my sister and her new boyfriend Urs. Officially, of course, VdT is non-vintage. However, the way I read this lot number, it seems to me a blend of 2003 and 2002 that was bottled in May 2006 which is precisely what this smells and tastes like. Lightly red beet hued purplish ruby-black. Strong garrigue (roasted Provenal herbs such as rosemary and lavender) and a firm Kirsch top note with a touch of raspberry to light beef juice and tobacco, faint graphite dust to pebbly-stony minerality. Firm, only lightly rustic and dry tannin, good acidity, with the earlier red beet touch very well integrated. Delicious declassified Chteauneuf-du-Pape (that is what this is) of which one could easily drink a bottle by oneself. Rating: 89(+/-?)

Charvin Ctes-du-Rhne 2006
Same as always, roasted Provenal lavender, rosemary, thyme, green pepper and bell pepper, Kirsch Schnaps, flinty-pebbly minerality. Nicely dry and mouth-cleansing tannin. Medium body and length. Tasty! Rating: 87(+?)

Chteau de Fonsalette Ctes-du-Rhne Rserv Syrah 1998
Thanks to Ned. Deep garnet-red, opaque at the center. Huge roasted Provenal herbs and pepper, vine smoke, earthy minerals, and firm lightly evolved fruit, not at all without sweetness. Extremely smoky, Kathy said. Fairly full-bodied, this probably contains at least the 14% that are labelled. Big, solid, nicely rustic tannin. Growing longer and fruitier with airing, sweeter, too. Rating: 92(+?)

Daniel & Martha Gantenbein Riesling Sptlese 2007
Thanks to Remo again. Now already with more integrated CO2, so that that minerality, and fruit and spice subtlety all come out better. Now already as complex on the nose as on the palate. Pretty, well-balanced wine which Chansie, Remos girlfriend simply loves. Very nice intensity, acidity and soft bitter note to the fruit. Medium length. Christian thought this quite sweet (it is not unusually sweet for a Sptlese, especially not a modern-day one), and we all felt a bit tipsy despite the low 9.5% alcohol. Rating: 89

Tenuta DellOrnellaia Vino da Tavola Ornellaia 2006
Opaque purple, red at the rim. Tight green licorice and coconut, clove and cinnamon oak tight blackcurrant and plum, dark coffee and mint chocolate, very minerally especially for Ornellaia (judging from memory, the most minerally ever), powerful and quite long. Touches of vanilla, cherry and caper. One of the most concentrated Ornellaias I know. Impressive alcohol integration given the size. Youthfully tannic, of course, without being at all bitter. Recurring oak spice on the finish. Pretty glycerine. Currently best on the nose, Patrick and Remo said, the latter of whom did not find this approachable enough. Clearly for admirers of the style, extremely modern and polished, but promising. Rating: 93+/94(+?)

Trimbach Riesling Cuve Frdric mile 1997
Deep yellow gold with green reflections. Remains youthful, but is drinking beautifully with some airing. Sea salt, limestone, lime, pistachio, good body, and impressive intensity, balance and length. Glyceric, ripe, dry, equally as fine on its own as with food. Rating: 92+/93?

Villa Contea Dolcetto d'Alba 2001
Thanks to Patrick. Glossy ruby-red, orange at the rim. Glyceric, a bit nutty-oaky (a bit stale like an old rowboat) and fairly high alcohol. Evolved fruit (worn out by oak as well?), heavy coffee chocolate. Slightly mean tannin, bit stale and metallic acidity. Rating: 83-

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
Henri Bonneau et Fils Vin de Table de France Les Rouliers L 05.06-03/02
it seems to me a blend of 2003 and 2002 that was bottled in May 2006 which is precisely what this smells and tastes like.

Smart idea. And nice that the wine(s) came together like that in a friendly manner to present a unified and harmonious sensation, despite the multiple vintages.
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
I had expected greater sympathy for the ancient-styled Rouliers (if only because I could wallow in Henri Bonneaus wines), but my guests preferred the Rvola.
Go figure. Preferring a mass-produced pseudo-Ribera made by Novartis to a Bonneau wine. A Spanish wine, for goodness sake! An unforgiveable act of lse majest.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
Henri Bonneau et Fils Vin de Table de France Les Rouliers L 05.06-03/02
it seems to me a blend of 2003 and 2002 that was bottled in May 2006 which is precisely what this smells and tastes like.

Smart idea. And nice that the wine(s) came together like that in a friendly manner to present a unified and harmonious sensation, despite the multiple vintages.

People tend to forget this, but there used to be a tradition of making non-vintage Chteauneuf-du-Pape (= blends) at one time. Some of the famous (now dead) oldtimers like Jaques Reynaud of Chteau Rayas used to defend their sometimes fraudulent blending practices referring to that tradition (in general kept it a secret, of course). In a world where a wine labelled "Cabernet Sauvignon" need not consist of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, he apparently figured regulations were/are too strict. Nowadays, there are very few top grade non-vintage blends left, in fact, I can't think of any other than Vega Sicilia's Unico Reserva Especial. I've assisted the blending process in wineries sometimes, and quite honestly, while I agree it's per se difficult as you suggest, I'm not sure a multiplicity of vintages makes the process that much more complex. Well, somewhat more complex for sure. But then, who is Henri Bonneau if not an aging/blending genius?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by VS:
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
I had expected greater sympathy for the ancient-styled Rouliers (if only because I could wallow in Henri Bonneaus wines), but my guests preferred the Rvola.
Go figure. Preferring a mass-produced pseudo-Ribera made by Novartis to a Bonneau wine. A Spanish wine, for goodness sake! An unforgiveable act of lse majest.

My sister and I happen to love especially "real" Ribera del Duero, though. But tell me, did/does the fact that Novartis now owns Abadia Retuerta change matters for the worse?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
David,

When you say
more integrated CO2

what do you mean?

I agree with Sharon's description of "it's gone flat" - I wouldn't know what happens chemically (= I'm hoping for your explanation), but while it may not be completely gone, its smell and taste didn't stick out like a sore thumb anymore (there are wines where I waited for days for the same to happen, but it never did).

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
did/does the fact that Novartis now owns Abadia Retuerta change matters for the worse?
They don't own it "now" - they have always owned the estate, planting the vineyards in the early 1990s and making the very first wine in 1996.

I was only kidding, of course. ngel Anocbar is one of Spain's best winemakers and a truly erudite one (first Spaniard with a Doctorate in oenology from Bordeaux University). The task of managing a 100,000-case estate is a daunting one...
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
(= I'm hoping for your explanation)
I think it leaks out.

How fast it leaves solution depends on a few things--pH, sugar content, surface area....

But it shouldn't be doing anything new in the bottle other than wandering off.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I think it leaks out.

How fast it leaves solution depends on a few things--pH, sugar content, surface area....

But it shouldn't be doing anything new in the bottle other than wandering off.

Thanks! Does it keep the wine from oxidizing (= as quickly as it would otherwise/to some extent) as long as it's leaking out/until it has leaked out?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:
originally posted by SFJoe:
I think it leaks out.

How fast it leaves solution depends on a few things--pH, sugar content, surface area....

But it shouldn't be doing anything new in the bottle other than wandering off.

Thanks! Does it keep the wine from oxidizing (= as quickly as it would otherwise/to some extent) as long as it's leaking out/until it has leaked out?
It has no direct anti-oxidant effect, but acts to exclude oxygen through processing and in bottle.
 
Back
Top