2001 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot
This was terrific. The mouthfeel is silky and the wine glides across the palate weightlessly and with elegance. The focus here is not the fruit, but the texture and mouthfeel. Terrific purity and lively acidity. While one can sense the depth of blue/black Syrah fruit, that should emerge in a few years time. Right now, this wine is all about grace and silkiness.
2001 Tardieu-Laurent Chteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Cuve Speciale
Begins rather woodsy, which according to James is because this was not de-stemmed. Opens quickly and nicely, showing good precision of fruit, chestnut, garrigue and wood spice notes, on a solid structure that carries the palate nicely. Not as oaky or as slick as I was expecting, given my past experiences with this producer; although it is smoothly contoured it is not spoofolated. Rustic (I cant believe I am calling a Tardieu Laurent wine rustic) and woodsy, and at the same time well fruited. In a very good place now.
2001 Chteau du Mourre du Tendre Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Tradition
First bottle was corked, so I opened another which was sound. Not as tight as a bottle in April 08, smoother and less tannic, although it hasnt developed much complexity. Good cherry kirsch core, surrounded by garrigue, with dusty tannins. I like where this is right now - very balanced, smoothing out, getting more cohesive - and I foresee it more complex with another couple of years. One of the more backward and reserved 01 CdPs that is starting to emerge from its shell, and it hints to a beautiful wine in a couple of years.
2001 Domaine du Pga Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve
It's been a long time since I pulled one of these out of the cellar, and the end of a busy week was reason enough. Smells like raw pork sausage and raspberry coulis, with a bit of funk/barnyard, or what Dal Piaz would call "pigeon shit" which seems to be particularly accurate. Feathery tannins seem like they are easing their grip. The one downside is that this wine seems a bit lean and lacking in volume in the middle. Perhaps it's just in a somewhat closed phase, but there is a void of sorts in the midpalate, not of flavor but of volume. At eight years past the vintage, I'm not sure that I could expect this wine to "bulk up". Maybe it's just heading into middle age a bit leaner that expected. Plenty to enjoy here, but it's not a blockbuster or "tour de force". Let's say more B+ than A-.
2001 Domaine Charvin Chteauneuf-du-Pape
With GdP. Another terrific showing for this wine. Opens up quickly to a lovely palate full of ripe red fruit: strawberry, raspberry and cherry, with impressive purity. I just love Charvin's pure and direct red fruit style. Hints of garrigue amidst the red fruit and, with a bit of air, a note of balsam that suggests that the wine is not yet fully integrated. The tannin is not very firm, showing a bit of age; however, the acidity is still very strong and will carry this wine for a while. Greg and I both thought that in another 3-5 years, the tannins should yield fully and the fruit will reach that fuzzy stage, with peach skin texture, which is where I like my Chateauneuf. So, for now, this is delicious and showing quite well, but will be even better with a few more years.
2007 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph
I loved it, but without being as bowled over as Keith, whose palate I respect. It appears that my bottle was not as generous. I found it to be rather linear, direct and pleasing but not as broad or as generous as other notes suggest. But that is more a comment on where the wine is today, in its infancy, rather than as to its quality or its potential. The purity here is impressive, like an essence of the Syrah grape: cool blue fruits, dried meat and a bit of violets. Very well balanced, the tannins are there underlying, but in the background right now, with the pure fruit at the foreground. The submerged tannin makes the mouthfeel more like silk than velvet. I could not stop sipping this wine, as I was captivated by its purity. No degradation over three nights of being open.
2004 Domaine Mathieu Chteauneuf-du-Pape Vin di Felibre
The nose showed suntan lotion and new oak. The palate showed red candy and a creamy texture. If there were any good raw materials here, I can't tell. Completely obliterated by oak.
2004 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
This has lost much of its plumpness and the babyfat that I recall when this wine was first released. It has moved into a good, smooth groove, showing cherry kirsch liquer, wild strawberry and a hint of that CdP/cookie dough that CdP often shows in its youth, but lacking in depth and concentration. The mouthfeel is smooth, the tannins soft. I don't see this having the depth and structure to evolve into something old and complex, but it sure does drink well now. No touches of over-ripeness that are noticeable in earlier Marcoux vintages, like the '98.
1999 Chteau de Beaucastel Chteauneuf-du-Pape
With Jackdaw. Much darker in profile than every bottle of 99 Beau i've had to date, showing the black fruit side of Grenache rather than the red fruit I was expecting. A sweet/meade/honey note on the nose after uncorking, consistent with last time. After a couple of hours, the sweet garrigue emerges. More like the 98/01 Beau, i.e., not yet ready. Still plenty of tannin here. Every other bottle I've had of this seemed forward; but based on this bottle, hold.
1999 Domaine du Vieux Tlgraphe Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
I served this wine blind to a friend who was convinced that it was Burgundy and for ten minutes debated where in Burgundy, eventually concluding Pommard because of its masculine profile. I thought the wine was much too dark to be Burgundy, quite dark in color and palate profile (and not only in comparison to the 2003 Rayas also on the table; a dark wine generally). Palate shows a bit of sweet funk, and aforementioned friend points out wet soil, in addition to the olives, black fruit, nori/seaweed, beef blood and pine/evergreen/forrest scents. The tannin is soft, suggesting that this wine is getting close to its apogee. More seaweed this time than the Lagavulin/peat/iodine notes as I usually get in this wine. Delicious and drinking well.
1995 Domaine du Vieux Tlgraphe Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
I've had this wine half a dozen times over the past couple of years, and each time it's shown well - a well-made CdP at or near peak. This time, however, was the weakest showing. It had some rugged black fruit, garrigue and game notes, but little depth or energy. It wasn't corked, and it wasn't a bad wine at all, just not as bright as it could have been. B/B- for what has been a A wine recently.
2005 Domaine Charvin Ctes du Rhne (Le Poutet)
A much better showing than October 2008, this one has come together over the past eight months, but I would still give this one more time. Showing solid cherry and plum fruit and tannin, but the tannin has softened and the wine is less angular than last time. I think another couple of years and this wine will take on that warm, fuzzy, resolved CdP/CdR profile that I like.
2001 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Further evidence that Les Cailloux is amazingly inconsistent. Sour cherry up front, with dry notes on the palate, suggesting a mature wine. One looks for some bright fruit at the core to balance those dried notes, especially in an eight year old CdP that should be ahead of, or at the most, its peak, but no such bright fruit notes come. The palate is dominated by a dry, tannic mouthfeel which further emphasize the lack of sweet fruit on the palate. Air doesnt really improve this wine, and I pour out my last glass, because Im just not compelled enough to keep drinking it. Honestly, Im frustrated with this producers inconsistency and find more pleasure and less frustration in most Cotes du Rhone than Les Cailloux.
1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
Wow. A stunning wine, showing terrific balance and poise, coming across significantly younger than its 19 years. Indeed, one might argue that this wine is still primary. Like a multi-faceted diamond that is right now showing a singular brilliance, although there are many angles and dimensions to explore if you take a closer look. Like a confident prince, waiting until his time to become the monarch. I'll stop the metaphores now. Drink now or for years to come.
1998 Domaine Jamet Cte-Rtie
This is ready and is drinking quite well. Olives, smoked meats, dusty blue, black and purple fruit. Tannins are smooth and the acidity lifting the palate, resulting in a smooth, complex, giving palate backed by good freshness. At this point, the differences between 98 and 99 in Cote Rotie are becoming more apparent, with the more structured 99s still needing more time, whereas wines such as this 98 Jamet are hitting their peak.
1974 Chanson Pre et Fils Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Yes, this is a 1974 red wine from Chanson Pere et Fils (Beaune) labeled as a Chateauneuf du Pape. Now, I could be wrong, but I understand that back then, Burgundy producers were adulterating their reds with Algerian, Rhone and Languedoc varietals, so was Chanson being a pioneer by labeling honestly? Who knows. This was a terrific wine, and I understand that it was brought by the son of the original cellarer. Amazing color and freshness for 25 year old Chateauneuf. I've opened recent vintage Les Cailloux that seemed older and much more tired. Plenty of vibrant red fruits, spices, dried leaves and a long, detailed and juicy finish. Bravo.
This was terrific. The mouthfeel is silky and the wine glides across the palate weightlessly and with elegance. The focus here is not the fruit, but the texture and mouthfeel. Terrific purity and lively acidity. While one can sense the depth of blue/black Syrah fruit, that should emerge in a few years time. Right now, this wine is all about grace and silkiness.
2001 Tardieu-Laurent Chteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Cuve Speciale
Begins rather woodsy, which according to James is because this was not de-stemmed. Opens quickly and nicely, showing good precision of fruit, chestnut, garrigue and wood spice notes, on a solid structure that carries the palate nicely. Not as oaky or as slick as I was expecting, given my past experiences with this producer; although it is smoothly contoured it is not spoofolated. Rustic (I cant believe I am calling a Tardieu Laurent wine rustic) and woodsy, and at the same time well fruited. In a very good place now.
2001 Chteau du Mourre du Tendre Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Tradition
First bottle was corked, so I opened another which was sound. Not as tight as a bottle in April 08, smoother and less tannic, although it hasnt developed much complexity. Good cherry kirsch core, surrounded by garrigue, with dusty tannins. I like where this is right now - very balanced, smoothing out, getting more cohesive - and I foresee it more complex with another couple of years. One of the more backward and reserved 01 CdPs that is starting to emerge from its shell, and it hints to a beautiful wine in a couple of years.
2001 Domaine du Pga Chteauneuf-du-Pape Cuve Rserve
It's been a long time since I pulled one of these out of the cellar, and the end of a busy week was reason enough. Smells like raw pork sausage and raspberry coulis, with a bit of funk/barnyard, or what Dal Piaz would call "pigeon shit" which seems to be particularly accurate. Feathery tannins seem like they are easing their grip. The one downside is that this wine seems a bit lean and lacking in volume in the middle. Perhaps it's just in a somewhat closed phase, but there is a void of sorts in the midpalate, not of flavor but of volume. At eight years past the vintage, I'm not sure that I could expect this wine to "bulk up". Maybe it's just heading into middle age a bit leaner that expected. Plenty to enjoy here, but it's not a blockbuster or "tour de force". Let's say more B+ than A-.
2001 Domaine Charvin Chteauneuf-du-Pape
With GdP. Another terrific showing for this wine. Opens up quickly to a lovely palate full of ripe red fruit: strawberry, raspberry and cherry, with impressive purity. I just love Charvin's pure and direct red fruit style. Hints of garrigue amidst the red fruit and, with a bit of air, a note of balsam that suggests that the wine is not yet fully integrated. The tannin is not very firm, showing a bit of age; however, the acidity is still very strong and will carry this wine for a while. Greg and I both thought that in another 3-5 years, the tannins should yield fully and the fruit will reach that fuzzy stage, with peach skin texture, which is where I like my Chateauneuf. So, for now, this is delicious and showing quite well, but will be even better with a few more years.
2007 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph
I loved it, but without being as bowled over as Keith, whose palate I respect. It appears that my bottle was not as generous. I found it to be rather linear, direct and pleasing but not as broad or as generous as other notes suggest. But that is more a comment on where the wine is today, in its infancy, rather than as to its quality or its potential. The purity here is impressive, like an essence of the Syrah grape: cool blue fruits, dried meat and a bit of violets. Very well balanced, the tannins are there underlying, but in the background right now, with the pure fruit at the foreground. The submerged tannin makes the mouthfeel more like silk than velvet. I could not stop sipping this wine, as I was captivated by its purity. No degradation over three nights of being open.
2004 Domaine Mathieu Chteauneuf-du-Pape Vin di Felibre
The nose showed suntan lotion and new oak. The palate showed red candy and a creamy texture. If there were any good raw materials here, I can't tell. Completely obliterated by oak.
2004 Domaine de Marcoux Chteauneuf-du-Pape
This has lost much of its plumpness and the babyfat that I recall when this wine was first released. It has moved into a good, smooth groove, showing cherry kirsch liquer, wild strawberry and a hint of that CdP/cookie dough that CdP often shows in its youth, but lacking in depth and concentration. The mouthfeel is smooth, the tannins soft. I don't see this having the depth and structure to evolve into something old and complex, but it sure does drink well now. No touches of over-ripeness that are noticeable in earlier Marcoux vintages, like the '98.
1999 Chteau de Beaucastel Chteauneuf-du-Pape
With Jackdaw. Much darker in profile than every bottle of 99 Beau i've had to date, showing the black fruit side of Grenache rather than the red fruit I was expecting. A sweet/meade/honey note on the nose after uncorking, consistent with last time. After a couple of hours, the sweet garrigue emerges. More like the 98/01 Beau, i.e., not yet ready. Still plenty of tannin here. Every other bottle I've had of this seemed forward; but based on this bottle, hold.
1999 Domaine du Vieux Tlgraphe Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
I served this wine blind to a friend who was convinced that it was Burgundy and for ten minutes debated where in Burgundy, eventually concluding Pommard because of its masculine profile. I thought the wine was much too dark to be Burgundy, quite dark in color and palate profile (and not only in comparison to the 2003 Rayas also on the table; a dark wine generally). Palate shows a bit of sweet funk, and aforementioned friend points out wet soil, in addition to the olives, black fruit, nori/seaweed, beef blood and pine/evergreen/forrest scents. The tannin is soft, suggesting that this wine is getting close to its apogee. More seaweed this time than the Lagavulin/peat/iodine notes as I usually get in this wine. Delicious and drinking well.
1995 Domaine du Vieux Tlgraphe Chteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
I've had this wine half a dozen times over the past couple of years, and each time it's shown well - a well-made CdP at or near peak. This time, however, was the weakest showing. It had some rugged black fruit, garrigue and game notes, but little depth or energy. It wasn't corked, and it wasn't a bad wine at all, just not as bright as it could have been. B/B- for what has been a A wine recently.
2005 Domaine Charvin Ctes du Rhne (Le Poutet)
A much better showing than October 2008, this one has come together over the past eight months, but I would still give this one more time. Showing solid cherry and plum fruit and tannin, but the tannin has softened and the wine is less angular than last time. I think another couple of years and this wine will take on that warm, fuzzy, resolved CdP/CdR profile that I like.
2001 Les Cailloux (Lucien et Andr Brunel) Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Further evidence that Les Cailloux is amazingly inconsistent. Sour cherry up front, with dry notes on the palate, suggesting a mature wine. One looks for some bright fruit at the core to balance those dried notes, especially in an eight year old CdP that should be ahead of, or at the most, its peak, but no such bright fruit notes come. The palate is dominated by a dry, tannic mouthfeel which further emphasize the lack of sweet fruit on the palate. Air doesnt really improve this wine, and I pour out my last glass, because Im just not compelled enough to keep drinking it. Honestly, Im frustrated with this producers inconsistency and find more pleasure and less frustration in most Cotes du Rhone than Les Cailloux.
1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
Wow. A stunning wine, showing terrific balance and poise, coming across significantly younger than its 19 years. Indeed, one might argue that this wine is still primary. Like a multi-faceted diamond that is right now showing a singular brilliance, although there are many angles and dimensions to explore if you take a closer look. Like a confident prince, waiting until his time to become the monarch. I'll stop the metaphores now. Drink now or for years to come.
1998 Domaine Jamet Cte-Rtie
This is ready and is drinking quite well. Olives, smoked meats, dusty blue, black and purple fruit. Tannins are smooth and the acidity lifting the palate, resulting in a smooth, complex, giving palate backed by good freshness. At this point, the differences between 98 and 99 in Cote Rotie are becoming more apparent, with the more structured 99s still needing more time, whereas wines such as this 98 Jamet are hitting their peak.
1974 Chanson Pre et Fils Chteauneuf-du-Pape
Yes, this is a 1974 red wine from Chanson Pere et Fils (Beaune) labeled as a Chateauneuf du Pape. Now, I could be wrong, but I understand that back then, Burgundy producers were adulterating their reds with Algerian, Rhone and Languedoc varietals, so was Chanson being a pioneer by labeling honestly? Who knows. This was a terrific wine, and I understand that it was brought by the son of the original cellarer. Amazing color and freshness for 25 year old Chateauneuf. I've opened recent vintage Les Cailloux that seemed older and much more tired. Plenty of vibrant red fruits, spices, dried leaves and a long, detailed and juicy finish. Bravo.