3 02 Chablis villages

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BJ

BJ
Chablis one: Savary, non VV. Gorgeous green gold, everything you could ever want, archetypal Chablis from 10,000 years ago. Just the right amount of evolution, crisp yet lush, that weird melange of quince/pear, limey minerals, and carnality.

Chablis two: Dauvissat. Prematurely gold, immediate nose of trouble. A pox of premox. Drain poured almost immediately, no redemption. Ouch.

Chablis three: Fevre Champs Royeaux. Moving toward premox, but not really good. With the sushi wasabe, tolerable, but there mainly to wash things down.

These three seem like a bad sign. I have a couple cases of good 02 1ers and this worries me.
 
Any idea if Savary allows the wine to go through malo-lactic fermentation? I was surprised to read that Dauvissat, Raveneau, Fevre, etc. wines all go through malo-lactic and also are fermented with cultured yeast.

If it's any consolation, we opened a '96 Savary VV last fall and it was delightful and still tightly wound.
 
I don't know about malolactic on the Savary. We visited them last year, and you'd think I'd know that.

I said above all three worried me but the Savary certainly didn't...it was the Dauvissat and Fevre.
 
Brad,
Savary does have some old wood for their Fourchaume (.75 ha) and all the rest is stainless and enamel vats. I haven't had many but your encouragement is good motivation to try more. I can just imagine what the 2007's will be . . .
Best, Jim
 
The premox pox is a tragedy, so sad when dead or dying bottles are discovered. I guess you weren't worried before, but it continues, it has been even seen in some 04 WBs. If you were thinking it was restricted to late the 90s, it isn't and it doesn't seem like a definite cause has been determined so
expect it to continue. Producers have taken some steps in recent vintages but it will take years to see whether those steps made a difference. In the meantime I wouldn't leave those remaining bottles laying around too much longer.

Isn't malo standard practice in Chablis?
 
Sorry to hear about the Fevre; we drank through about eight bottles of this within a few years of release and enjoyed it quite a bit.
 
These days, if you buy white Burgundy for drinking more than five years after the vintage, you are voluntarily assuming the risk of premox. No one has definitively resolved the problem.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
These days, if you buy white Burgundy for drinking more than five years after the vintage, you are voluntarily assuming the risk of premox. No one has definitively resolved the problem.
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I've read so many versions of why. Is there an absolute reason why?
 
No. Each producer has his/her own explanation. And so the adjustments that they've made have been different, from cellar to cellar. Some may have gotten it right -- by chance -- but which ones?
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Sorry to hear about the Fevre; we drank through about eight bottles of this within a few years of release and enjoyed it quite a bit.
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As did we...this one got lost in the cellar...
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
I just did a quick search on Savary. It seems really inexpensive, at least, for the '06. Is that the usual pricing?
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And how much is that?
 
Savary bottlings were offered at by the glass possible pricing as of not so long ago. I remember Mas (farmhouse) used to pour it, for instance. I thought about pouring it at my sushi spot, but never ended up doing so. I haven't checked in recently with the Savary pricing as I have been focused on Italia.

I understand there to be a Raveneau/Savary connection in terms of winemaking and then the subsequent importer introduction and relationship.
 
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