Petit Domaine de la Renardire 2006 Arbois-Pupillin Chardonnay (Jura) Prickly, but from energy rather than acidity (though it has that, too), with a rich complexity of stony aromas (both the fruit and the rocks themselves), a light wash of oxidation that adds further complexity, a good deal of concentration, and a long finish. Very, very engaging. (7/09)
Denis 1989 Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Vignes de la Gaillarderie Sec (Loire) Dirty in a good way and fairly high in acid. Unmistakably maturing chenin, yet the minerality is as much aluminum and tin as chalk. Another slight shift is from honeysuckle to pollen-dusted stone fruit skin. So how, exactly, is it unmistakably chenin? Im not sure, but theres just something about the weight, palate impression, and generally Touraine-evocative aromatics that announce chenin with clarity and decision. Its never wise to suggest that a Loire chenins nearing the end of its life, and yet I dont know that this has all that much more development left in it. (Emphasis, in that last sentence, is on the I dont know more than the rest.) (7/09)
Allemand 2005 Cornas Reynard (Rhne) The brooding, dark heart of Cornas, with 50% less apocalypse. Very nearly perfect in form, and thus set up for long aging. Right now, theres a lot of (ripe) tannin and smoke, but I expect rather a lot to emerge in theyears decades to come. (7/09)
Jadot 2002 Savigny-ls-Beaune La Dominode (Burgundy) Pointed, razor-leafed raspberry and a fair bit of tannin. A sharply-formed wine, perhaps a little brittle at the moment, but with lovely fruit within. Promising. And also, a question: whats with the ? (7/09)
Cordier 2005 Mcon-Lamartine-Milly Clos du Four (Mcon) Light oak spice, good weight, fine balance, but this reminds me why I just dont buy, drink, or enjoy oaked chardonnay; theres just nothing here that cant be attributed to the wood. (7/09)
Drouhin 2006 Meursault-Pierrires (Burgundy) Ah, chardonnay. How I havent missed you. But then again, this is white Burgundy, and theres plenty to like herespicy minerality, soft wood, good balanceif one is inclined in chardonnesque directions. Which, for better or worse, Im increasingly not. (7/09)
Denis 1989 Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Vignes de la Gaillarderie Sec (Loire) Dirty in a good way and fairly high in acid. Unmistakably maturing chenin, yet the minerality is as much aluminum and tin as chalk. Another slight shift is from honeysuckle to pollen-dusted stone fruit skin. So how, exactly, is it unmistakably chenin? Im not sure, but theres just something about the weight, palate impression, and generally Touraine-evocative aromatics that announce chenin with clarity and decision. Its never wise to suggest that a Loire chenins nearing the end of its life, and yet I dont know that this has all that much more development left in it. (Emphasis, in that last sentence, is on the I dont know more than the rest.) (7/09)
Allemand 2005 Cornas Reynard (Rhne) The brooding, dark heart of Cornas, with 50% less apocalypse. Very nearly perfect in form, and thus set up for long aging. Right now, theres a lot of (ripe) tannin and smoke, but I expect rather a lot to emerge in the
Jadot 2002 Savigny-ls-Beaune La Dominode (Burgundy) Pointed, razor-leafed raspberry and a fair bit of tannin. A sharply-formed wine, perhaps a little brittle at the moment, but with lovely fruit within. Promising. And also, a question: whats with the ? (7/09)
Cordier 2005 Mcon-Lamartine-Milly Clos du Four (Mcon) Light oak spice, good weight, fine balance, but this reminds me why I just dont buy, drink, or enjoy oaked chardonnay; theres just nothing here that cant be attributed to the wood. (7/09)
Drouhin 2006 Meursault-Pierrires (Burgundy) Ah, chardonnay. How I havent missed you. But then again, this is white Burgundy, and theres plenty to like herespicy minerality, soft wood, good balanceif one is inclined in chardonnesque directions. Which, for better or worse, Im increasingly not. (7/09)