Boxler 2006 Pinot Blanc L20A (Alsace) Spiced apricot, with intensity (in the context of pinot blanc) yet avoiding fatness. Theres auxerrois here, of course, and thus the requisite spicebut it, too, is tamed and manageable. Otherwise, theres just the right amount of crispness and light, especially into the finish. This isnt Boxlers best pinot blanc, but its a fine one, and still better than most. (7/09)
Boxler 2001 Pinot Blanc L20B (Alsace) Pinot blanc (and auxerrois) from the Brand, unable to be labeled as such because of Alsaces often-ridiculous wine law. This wine shows the ridiculousness rather clearly, as its both terroir-revelatory and frankly extraordinary. In fact, its probably the best pinot blanc Ive ever tastedand of the contenders, a rather large number are from this house. Brand dominates, deep and moody with its glowering rocks, while the once-sunnier fruit has turned luscious and creamy. This is not a high-acid wine, by any means, but theres certainly enough for the stage the wines in. Whats most fun is the combination of the intellectual pleasure of a terroir-revelatory wine in its mature glory and the massively appealing drinkability of the wine, which causes it to disappear all too quickly. I could probably drink a magnum of this all by myself, and still wish there was more. (7/09)
Boxler 2005 Muscat Brand (Alsace) Floral, yesand as much so as any lover of the grape could wantbut the flowers are white, rather than multi-hued, and have shifted from lurid showmanship to stream-side mountain delicacy. The breathtaking Brand minerality, powerful dark crystals laced with coal dust and giving the impression (but not the actuality) of fat, is on display, and succeeds as much as any terroir can in standing up to the grapes varietal signature. The structures good enough (a measure of acidity was no doubt sacrificed in search of the wines ideal site/grape balance point). Im sure this would age, letting the flowers wither away and revealing more and more of the underlying minerality, but Id actually advise against it; if you want the full expression of site with little standing in the way other than structure, choose a riesling instead. (7/09)
Trimbach 2000 Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives (Alsace) Trimbachs late-harvest wines, especially their gewrztraminers, are packed to the gills with sugar. Their nearly singular achievement, however, is making it seem like theyre not. 2000 wasnt a firm, crisp, high-acid year, and yet this wine seems only marginally sweeter than many a regular gewrztraminer from some of their hangtime-obsessed neighbors, and pairs that sweetness with a surprising wallop of firm acidity. The fruits peach and cashew with only hints of lychee, and the mineralitys copper and salt. Bacon, smokeonly suggestions at the moment, and their full expression is far, far in the future. A lovely wine, deft and delineatedand whens the last time you read that about a late-harvest gewrztraminer? (7/09)
Boxler 2001 Pinot Blanc L20B (Alsace) Pinot blanc (and auxerrois) from the Brand, unable to be labeled as such because of Alsaces often-ridiculous wine law. This wine shows the ridiculousness rather clearly, as its both terroir-revelatory and frankly extraordinary. In fact, its probably the best pinot blanc Ive ever tastedand of the contenders, a rather large number are from this house. Brand dominates, deep and moody with its glowering rocks, while the once-sunnier fruit has turned luscious and creamy. This is not a high-acid wine, by any means, but theres certainly enough for the stage the wines in. Whats most fun is the combination of the intellectual pleasure of a terroir-revelatory wine in its mature glory and the massively appealing drinkability of the wine, which causes it to disappear all too quickly. I could probably drink a magnum of this all by myself, and still wish there was more. (7/09)
Boxler 2005 Muscat Brand (Alsace) Floral, yesand as much so as any lover of the grape could wantbut the flowers are white, rather than multi-hued, and have shifted from lurid showmanship to stream-side mountain delicacy. The breathtaking Brand minerality, powerful dark crystals laced with coal dust and giving the impression (but not the actuality) of fat, is on display, and succeeds as much as any terroir can in standing up to the grapes varietal signature. The structures good enough (a measure of acidity was no doubt sacrificed in search of the wines ideal site/grape balance point). Im sure this would age, letting the flowers wither away and revealing more and more of the underlying minerality, but Id actually advise against it; if you want the full expression of site with little standing in the way other than structure, choose a riesling instead. (7/09)
Trimbach 2000 Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives (Alsace) Trimbachs late-harvest wines, especially their gewrztraminers, are packed to the gills with sugar. Their nearly singular achievement, however, is making it seem like theyre not. 2000 wasnt a firm, crisp, high-acid year, and yet this wine seems only marginally sweeter than many a regular gewrztraminer from some of their hangtime-obsessed neighbors, and pairs that sweetness with a surprising wallop of firm acidity. The fruits peach and cashew with only hints of lychee, and the mineralitys copper and salt. Bacon, smokeonly suggestions at the moment, and their full expression is far, far in the future. A lovely wine, deft and delineatedand whens the last time you read that about a late-harvest gewrztraminer? (7/09)