Outrageous Burgundy

Claude Kolm

Claude Kolm
Last night we had a dinner party with two other couples who know and appreciate good wine but know nothing about Burgundy producers or vineyard hierarchy. It gave us an opportunity to open some moderate-price bottles that were of stunning quality. It's fun to be able to do this -- no evaluation of whether this Suchots was up to the previous year's standard or it was a mistake to eliminate the stems in that year.

After a pleasant, but unexceptional, 2006 Mcon-Villages purchased partly by mistake, we moved on to Roulot's 2007 Bourgogne blanc, a wine that is better than 95% of what sells as Meursault or Meursault premier cru. Fantastic delicacy, raciness, and elegance with understated Meursault butteriness. Some SO2 here, so decant.

I generally expect to ignore for many years the 2005 red Burgundies that I've purchased. But, as I've described elsewhere on this board, we were lucky enough to acquire several cases of Cathrine et Claude Marchal's 2005 Bourgogne "cuve Gravel" at incredible prices -- apparently purchased out of bankruptcy of a distributor or retailer in Nevada. The wine shows truffly dark fruit with richness and velvet. Served blind to many an experienced taster, I think there would be more than a few guesses of Vosne-Romane. Needless to say, the excellence of the wine called for a second, equally fine bottle of it. If you've got some, no need to hesitate opening it now.

Mantra: Producer, producer, producer.
 
Thanks for the notes, Claude. I enjoyed the 2006 Cuve Gravel at the L/D event here back in May very much and also have been planning to try that '07 Roulot.

originally posted by Claude Kolm:
But, as I've described elsewhere on this board, we were lucky enough to acquire several cases of Cathrine et Claude Marchal's 2005 Bourgogne "cuve Gravel" at incredible prices

Can you point me to that? I missed it first time around and wasn't able to find it with a search. tia.
 
So long as we're talking Marechale, anyone tried a Lavieres recently? I buried mine pretty far back but I do have a few of them...

That was so amazing on release.
 
It's most important to be seen having the best.

I report from an NYC resto where that is the case, so I know.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by SFJoe:
It's most important to be seen having the best.
Translation: Pour the "Cuvee Gravel" into the "La Tache" bottle before bringing it to the restaurant...
Actually not that one, but you get the idea.

Shockingly, tonight I talked the guy next to me into ordering a half of the '06 Marechal Savigny. It was showing very well.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
So long as we're talking Marechale, anyone tried a Lavieres recently? I buried mine pretty far back but I do have a few of them...

That was so amazing on release.
Aha, I see you are a label drinker -- you go for the only premier cru that Marchal has. ;)
 
Just curious, not to spoil the mood, but Marechal villages goes for about $40/btl, which is what you pay for a Bize 1er - my SLB favorite and benchmark. Is this a good deal?
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Just curious, not to spoil the mood, but Marechal villages goes for about $40/btl, which is what you pay for a Bize 1er - my SLB favorite and benchmark. Is this a good deal?

A Bize 1er is only $40 on closeout. The frontline pricing for 2005 Bize 1ers were closer to $60.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Just curious, not to spoil the mood, but Marechal villages goes for about $40/btl, which is what you pay for a Bize 1er - my SLB favorite and benchmark. Is this a good deal?

A Bize 1er is only $40 on closeout. The frontline pricing for 2005 Bize 1ers were closer to $60.
$46 out here, and that's not on closeout -- that was the original price and it still is the price almost two years later.
 
To answer Ian's question, for my tastes, if you can get Savigny premier cru from Bize, Pavelot, Camus-Bruchon, Guillemot, or Chandon-de-Briailles at roughly the same price, regardless of whether it is a closeout, as village Marchal, without a doubt I'd go for any of those other producers.
 
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