TN: Sunday Supper (8/16/09)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
8/16/09 A bbq at Suzanne and Kenny's, just because.

The guests: Paul & Sandy, Mark & Karrie, Keith & Tamar, Kristina, Jeff & Jim, plus Suzanne & Kenny.

The theme? Bring something French. Tough one but I think we can do that.

Suzanne lets me help in the kitchen a bit.

Whilst mingling and chatting and nibbling figs & almonds:

Dom. Drouhin 2007 Saint-Veran - crisp, light, like a gossamer chablis, what a great drink at $12

Dom. Roulot 2007 Bourgogne Blanc - oaky, feh

Jean-Paul Brun NV Vin Mousseux "FRV 100" - that touch of sweetness always sells this wine to people who've never had it before; although NV, this is the 2007 version and is actually a touch drier than usual (and therefore suits me better)

Dom. Baudry 08 Chinon Rose - extremely pale, extremely acidic, so lightweight as to have almost no flavor; not as good as a bottle I had a couple weeks ago

Dom. Bachelet 2006 Cote de Nuits Village, Non-Filtre - unctuous, strong perfume of thyme and oregano, a bit odd but I like it

Dinner is served. And what victuals!:
- heirloom tomato salad with cape gooseberries and onions
- grilled lamb kebabs
- ratatouille of grilled vegetables
- haricot verts with garlic and black mustard seed
- pearl couscous with porcini and cremini

Chevillon 2000 Nuits-Saint-Georges "Les Cailles" - wow nose, orange-raspberry coulis, just great

Olga Raffault 1990 Chinon "Les Picasses" - following the NSG this is a green-pepper bolte electrique, still a tiny bit rough-hewn but I'm not complaining, yum

Beaucastel 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape - licorice and strawberries, wow, maybe '98 was a really great year for Ch9

Beaucastel 1988 Chateauneuf-du-Pape - horsy and heavy

Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste 1986 Pauillac - much consternation at the table but a couple of us call the Portuguese Affliction; the next day, Suzanne says it has come around

Allemand 2001 Cornas "Chaillot" - happy day, suave package of blue fruit and minerals, a man's fist in a fine silk glove

Clape 2001 Cornas - Upon seeing the Allemand Suzanne rummages around in the basement and brings this out: less minerals, more blackberry at first but then goes all red fruit, still great wine but simpler than the Allemand, a woman's fist with no glove

Dessert is a mixed berry tart with ginger custard. Like everything else, made a la casa and amazingly delicious.

Veuve Clicquot 1988 Champagne Brut "Rare Vintage" - not tasted

Ch. Suduiraut 2001 Sauternes - amazing flavor intensity, even a few drops summons a vision of apricots and pineapples with a sweetness that is huge but harmonious

Thank you to everyone for a wonderful evening, especially our hard-working cooks and hosts, Suzanne and Kenny.
 
Ch. Suduiraut 2001 Sauternes - amazing flavor intensity, even a few drops summons a vision of apricots and pineapples with a sweetness that is huge but harmonious
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Aren't those 2001 Sauternes/Barsacs simply de-lish?

Unctuous, but not fat or weighty, and with good acidities.
What more could you want?
 
I just discovered that the gooseberries were cape gooseberries, also known as husk cherries, ground cherries, etc. Original note updated.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
How was the ginger involved in the custard? Sounds promising.
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I don't know if she simmered pieces of root or simply smashed them in a food processor. In any case, the cream had no trace of grains or threads. The flavor was mild, not pungent. It served merely to 'tint' the backdrop; the berries and crust were the stars in this one.

If you have access to Suzanne's account on FaceBook she has some pix there.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

I don't know if she simmered pieces of root or simply smashed them in a food processor. In any case, the cream had no trace of grains or threads. The flavor was mild, not pungent. It served merely to 'tint' the backdrop...
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The simmered and strained method probably makes sense and I just googled some recipes that suggest the same thing. Nice idea because I love making custard and this could add a good dimension. In fact, I am making a few custards for a wine dinner on Friday and may try this out.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Dom. Roulot 2007 Bourgogne Blanc - oaky, feh
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You may or may not like the wine, but what you are tasting there is the terroir (essentially, Meursault terroir), not oak. Chardonnay, like Syrah, has elements that can very easily be confused with oak for those who have not investigated, and in Meursault, those elements often seem to be multiplied. Do the math -- look at the price of new oak barrels and ask yourself, who the F has the money to spend making oaky Bourgogne blanc*? Maybe Leflaive, but that's about it. So I'd say you don't like Meursault, at least the way Roulot expresses it, with which I would disagree, but that's personal taste -- we're not talking over-oaking here.

* True, he could be using oak chips -- I say not! Based on multiple visits to the cellar.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Dom. Drouhin 2007 Saint-Veran - crisp, light, like a gossamer chablis, what a great drink at $12 ...G+
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Jeff,
Your notes are refreshing and more than worth remembering.
Thank-you.
Best, Jim
 
Last time I had this--about a year ago at the domaine--it wasn't horsey, but was what it always was, an austere but nice Beaucastel. I wonder if 88 imports to the US went through heat awakening more than normal brett.
 
Y'know, I'd been holding on to that Raffault forever and never got in the mood to open it - probably because I still see it on shelves everywhere. But it was totally awesome, one of my faves of the lineup. Guess I'll pick up more.

I really dug the FRV100, though I think any vintage with more sugar than that one would be too sweet.
 
I haven't tried the 1990 Raffault, but did have a bottle of the 1989 not long ago which I thought was great. I would guess that the 1990 vintage would have been the riper, less green wine, but from Jeff's description I'm not sure this is the case. I guess I should search out a bottle of the 1990 to taste.
 
I've had that '90 Raffault many several times, and the green peppercorn note comes more strongly on some days than others. I think that the more the bottle is chilled, the more you will see the green note.
 
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