Saina Nieminen
Saina Nieminen
I was invited to taste some wines imported by Vinature - a company that has imported to Finland only organic and "natural" wines. Generally I find their range very interesting, though inevitably they do have some that I am not too keen on.
We started with a flight of whites:
Domaine Yves Martin Sancerre Chavignol 2008
A very attractive Sancerre, mineral and grassy, an elegant style. Good body and freshness, has both ripeness and crispness. Balanced and complete. I liked it.
Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fum de Pouilly 2005
Once again, I fail to understand the hype attached to this producer. A perfectly adequate, grapefruit scent, a bit shy despite having a few years' age, so I was expecting something more forward. Good acidity, good body, but I was bored by it.
Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fum Pur Sang 2006
A producer that perplexes me: everyone seems to praise them, but I find them boring and/or too oaky. This was too oaky. I thought the nice green aromas that the grape can have clash horribly with oak, so I found this quite off-putting.
Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fum Pur Silex 2005
Still not my favoured style of Sauvignon Blanc, but far better balanced than the Pur Sang '06 beside it. The oak was more to the background, it was more mineral and showed the grape more obviously. Full body, good acidity, more oak on the palate than on the scent. Here I see what the fuss is about though I still don't enjoy the style.
Vincent Carme Vouvray Tendre Le Peu Morier 2006
This was a nice wine! The scent was a bit closed, but it seemed perfectly typical of the grape with some quince aromas. Slightly sweet and weighty but with good enough acidity that it should work very well on the table - it isn't too heavy. Good!
Andr Stentz Riesling Rosenberg 2007
A forward scent, perhaps a touch of botrytis?, pure Riesling aromas. Forceful and dry (or almost so - it might have a touch of RS), but rich and racy. Nice stuff!
Domaine Ganevat Ctes du Jura Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 2004
13% abv. It's been about two years since I last tasted this. Back then I noted that it was otherwise fine except that the oak was a bit too obvious. It seemed rather oaky on opening but a few hours open did wonders. It is a pure Chardonnay aroma, very citrussy and bright. Very crisp, good acidity, persistent and true to the grape. The oak is still showing on the palate, though. If the oak continues to disappear like this, I might give unreserved praise in a few years. It isn't as filled with personality as Stphane Tissot's Chardonnays, so they continue to be my favoured Chardonnay in the Jura.
Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin--Vent Les Trois Roches 2007
Strangely for a 2007 Gamay, I felt this needs more time. All others I have had have been absolutely wonderful even in this infant stage, but this was lactic and grumpy. It had lovely raspberry fruit and some gravelly savouryness. Dense and chewy palate, quite tannic for Gamay. The finish is pleasantly light and lifted but otherwise it seems rather grumpy and doesn't want to wake up. I think I like this - perhaps even very much - but I caught it in an inexpressive moment.
Domaine Tissot (Andr & Mireille now Stphane) Ctes du Jura En Barberon 2006
12,5% abv. Though I usually prefer other grapes in the Jura, I found this PN very attractive. The scent was of pure Pinosity in an elegant yet sexy and spicy style. Medium body, good acidity, quite strong tannins for the grape (but I don't mind that). Clean and refreshing finish. Lovely!
Chteau d'Aydie Madiran 2005
The scent was a bit reductive and plastic. It had dark fruit and a general savoury character. Quite full body, soft but plentiful tannins, the very high alcohol (14,5% abv) was amazingly well integrated. Hard and not giving much when given so little air. All the pieces seemed to be there so it would have been nice to try this with a bit of air.
Chteau du Cdre Cahors Le Cdre 2002
A rather oaky and anonymous scent of dark fruit; nicely meaty palate but still a bit anonymous. It seems that Cahors is going the Bordeaux route and making everything taste alike, spoofulated and boring?
Domaine de Souch Juranon Marie-Kattalin 2004
18 months in Barriques! Well, it is a spicy wine smelling of oranges and exotic fruit. Full bodied and sweet, spicy. Fun in small amounts!
Brasserie de Cazeau Saison 5% abv
A lovely, sweetish scent of white flowers and hops. Very dry and crisp but concentrated. I very much enjoyed this. It is made with elderflowers, and they really suited the style well IMO.
Brasserie de Cazeau Tournay 7,2% abv
A blonde-style. And that is a style I have never really cared for: honeyed and sweet nose without enough savouryness to counter it. Gladly despite some teasing touches of sweetness, the palate is fairly dry and moderately hoppy. I won't turn down a glass but I wasn't too keen on this.
Brasserie de Cazeau Tournay Noire 7,6% abv
A roasted, dark and sweet scent - almost a stout but with a strange sweet aspect like rosewater in the scent that I have never before smelled in this type of beer. A bit caramelly, but finishes dry and slightly ashy. Nice beer!
Jandrain-Jandrenouille IV Saison 6% abv
Was awesome! It somehow smelled of apricot jam yet promised to be very dry on the palate! And the taste was indeed a mix of apricot jam and dryness! Good hops, lovely aromas, it was a beer than made me sniff my glass over and over again. Lovely.
Jandrain-Jandrenouille V Cence 7% abv
Unlike the last time I tried it, this time the coriander is very obvious in the scent. A lovely sweet yet savoury scent; good crispness. Again, lovely.
We started with a flight of whites:
Domaine Yves Martin Sancerre Chavignol 2008
A very attractive Sancerre, mineral and grassy, an elegant style. Good body and freshness, has both ripeness and crispness. Balanced and complete. I liked it.
Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fum de Pouilly 2005
Once again, I fail to understand the hype attached to this producer. A perfectly adequate, grapefruit scent, a bit shy despite having a few years' age, so I was expecting something more forward. Good acidity, good body, but I was bored by it.
Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fum Pur Sang 2006
A producer that perplexes me: everyone seems to praise them, but I find them boring and/or too oaky. This was too oaky. I thought the nice green aromas that the grape can have clash horribly with oak, so I found this quite off-putting.
Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fum Pur Silex 2005
Still not my favoured style of Sauvignon Blanc, but far better balanced than the Pur Sang '06 beside it. The oak was more to the background, it was more mineral and showed the grape more obviously. Full body, good acidity, more oak on the palate than on the scent. Here I see what the fuss is about though I still don't enjoy the style.
Vincent Carme Vouvray Tendre Le Peu Morier 2006
This was a nice wine! The scent was a bit closed, but it seemed perfectly typical of the grape with some quince aromas. Slightly sweet and weighty but with good enough acidity that it should work very well on the table - it isn't too heavy. Good!
Andr Stentz Riesling Rosenberg 2007
A forward scent, perhaps a touch of botrytis?, pure Riesling aromas. Forceful and dry (or almost so - it might have a touch of RS), but rich and racy. Nice stuff!
Domaine Ganevat Ctes du Jura Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 2004
Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin--Vent Les Trois Roches 2007
Domaine Tissot (Andr & Mireille now Stphane) Ctes du Jura En Barberon 2006
Chteau d'Aydie Madiran 2005
The scent was a bit reductive and plastic. It had dark fruit and a general savoury character. Quite full body, soft but plentiful tannins, the very high alcohol (14,5% abv) was amazingly well integrated. Hard and not giving much when given so little air. All the pieces seemed to be there so it would have been nice to try this with a bit of air.
Chteau du Cdre Cahors Le Cdre 2002
A rather oaky and anonymous scent of dark fruit; nicely meaty palate but still a bit anonymous. It seems that Cahors is going the Bordeaux route and making everything taste alike, spoofulated and boring?
Domaine de Souch Juranon Marie-Kattalin 2004
18 months in Barriques! Well, it is a spicy wine smelling of oranges and exotic fruit. Full bodied and sweet, spicy. Fun in small amounts!
Brasserie de Cazeau Saison 5% abv
A lovely, sweetish scent of white flowers and hops. Very dry and crisp but concentrated. I very much enjoyed this. It is made with elderflowers, and they really suited the style well IMO.
Brasserie de Cazeau Tournay 7,2% abv
A blonde-style. And that is a style I have never really cared for: honeyed and sweet nose without enough savouryness to counter it. Gladly despite some teasing touches of sweetness, the palate is fairly dry and moderately hoppy. I won't turn down a glass but I wasn't too keen on this.
Brasserie de Cazeau Tournay Noire 7,6% abv
A roasted, dark and sweet scent - almost a stout but with a strange sweet aspect like rosewater in the scent that I have never before smelled in this type of beer. A bit caramelly, but finishes dry and slightly ashy. Nice beer!
Jandrain-Jandrenouille IV Saison 6% abv
Was awesome! It somehow smelled of apricot jam yet promised to be very dry on the palate! And the taste was indeed a mix of apricot jam and dryness! Good hops, lovely aromas, it was a beer than made me sniff my glass over and over again. Lovely.
Jandrain-Jandrenouille V Cence 7% abv
Unlike the last time I tried it, this time the coriander is very obvious in the scent. A lovely sweet yet savoury scent; good crispness. Again, lovely.