TN, Nine Wine(s): Mugneret, Gunderloch, Bessin, Fevre, Peppiere, Usseglio, Boursan, Schaefer, Puy-Lacoste

Ian Fitzsimmons

Ian Fitzsimmons
Dominique Mugneret Bourgogne 2006

Pretty, smooth and soft. Lacks the high lonesome Appalachian soul of Rollins HCdB, but, in exchange, gives appealing, modest tannic grit and, with air, charming spice. Not for heavy fare.

Gunderloch Spaetlese 2001

Very fine and integrated: apple pie smells and flavors with typically good acid-sweet balance, no seams. Plump but pleasing. In a good place, but felt as though the acids might not keep up with the sugar for much longer though who knows? Excellent.

Bought on release based on David from Switzerlands notes.

Bessin 2005 Chablis VV

Second bottle in several weeks. Very good on day one, with bits of twisty Chablis fruit perking up the structure. Day two, better: minerals and tang, cut to essentials, like Picassos bull Plate XI.

This wine is the real deal and the best AOC Chablis Ive had. It should be a Louis/Dressner import. Alas, the bottles are sealed with plastic corks and probably cant be held as long as they should.

Fevre 2002 Chablis Permier Cru Fourchaume Valourent

Different style than the previous wine, and a wow in its own right. Lovely detail, precision and finesse. Almost MSR-style filigree, but with Chablis flavor profile and intensity. Really good, and ready now. Finish could be a titch longer. Paired peerlessly with baked turbot brushed with tamari, butter and lemon.

Peppiere Briords 2006

Typically good bottle; citrussy acids with streak of almost sweet fruit flavor. Hard to tell whether this is traversing the last fraction of its plateau (as VLM would have it) or repositioning for another development phase. Is it possible to have too much Peppiere in the cellar?

Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape 2001

Disappointingly good. Im finally ready to write CdP off once and for all, and this wine, which has been a dog for years, comes up spades. Round, pleasantly rich and bouncy, good with grilled stake, and, at 13.5, the perfect antidote after a day of grating the brain on geochemistry problems.

Bois de Boursan Chateauneuf du Pape 2001

Another good un, curses. A stage better than the Usseglio, really pleasant with rich, round cherry flavors, fine depth, intriguingly spicy mouthfeel. Usually I like my reds cool, but this was better at 70 than 60.

Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Spaetlese 1999

10 years young. Day one, fizz, grape, petrol. Not bad, a bit too plump. I dropped the bottle taking it out of the fridge and it fizzed up like coke. Day two, before dinner, clear, crystalline snow-melt with a hint of sweetness. Great in the unique MSR manner pure, precise, focusing. After dinner, near room temp, mellow apple-spice and hints of caramel, super umami. I have wondered at the fuss over Schaefers wines, but now I get it.

We bought these at the herstellers, and I remember Willi putting the bottles into a box in his quiet way while Frau Schaefer talked to us about their quality.

Grand Puy-Lacoste 2001

Drinking very nicely, with fresh acidity, a bit of iodine and cedar, and the felt-y bx mouthfeel. Relatively elegant for bx, and in a good place. Seems early to drink, but I wouldnt hesitate to open another soon.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons: Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Spaetlese 1999

I have wondered at the fuss over Schaefers wines, but now I get it.

We bought these at the herstellers, and I remember Willi putting the bottles into a box in his quiet way while Frau Schaefer talked to us about their quality..

So you visited them in 2000 and tasted through the wines but are only now understanding why they get so much respect?
 
If memory serves, he didn't invite us to taste, had sold through most of his current stock, and just gave us a price list to pick from. I've opened a couple of the Himmelreich in the past year or two, but they haven't shown like this one did. Maybe the bottle-drop was critical.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
How's bean town treating you?

The North Shore and Martha's Vineyard have been nice.

So have the 6-days-per-week Farmers Markets. Will see what happens when the seasons change.
 
I've been told about Russos and have it on my list of places to check out. Will definitely be branching out once the farmers markets slack off.
 
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