WTN: autumnal

MarkS

Mark Svereika
Colors are beginning to change on the trees here, as autumn makes itself slowly felt. Subconsciously picking out fall favorites:

Charles Joguet, Chinon, 'les Varennes du Grand Clos', 2003
Yes, it's not 'cool' to say you like this wine here, as it's not in the LDM stable of cab franc, but this is one damn good bottle. The color is a vibrant pale-ish cherry. Ripe cabernet franc explodes out of the nose. Grassy-tinged chewy blackcurrant with a glycerin-sleeved licorice root end. Fuller bodied on the palate than the fragrant ripe nose suggests. 13.5% Excellent juice. A-

Viviani, Valpolicella classico superiore, 'Campo Morar', 2001
Medium cherry red color. Frutti di bosco, menthol on the nose. Drinks like a ripasso. Red fruited menthol-licorice, this has settled down since a previous encounter, which appeared openly disjointed. Feels only a little light and somewhat austere, and the 14% alcohol sticks out. Further development might tame the twig tannin a little more, but I fear more age could lose what charmless fruit is in there. B/B+

Pichler, Wachau, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd, 'M', 2004
Light, medium glistening gold. Pleasant nose of guava paste and ginger snap cookies. In the mouth, there's a warm cascade of yellow-orange tropical fruits, some burnt sugar on the finish, with chilling, the 14% alcohol receeds a bit and freshly cracked black peppercorns become predominant on the finish, along with dried lemon rinds, and Asian coconut taffy. Not sure about 'monumental', but this is pretty good. A-

Palmina, Barbera, Santa Barbara County, 2006
Black cherry & licorice, repeated on the palate, with black raspberry and sweet, smokey tar-asphalt. Good acidity. Smoother and richer than it's Italian counterparts. B+ 14.5%

Ada Nada, Barbaresco, 'Valeirano', 2004
Clear, autumnal looking red. Stinky bleu cheese aroma clouds the glass after an initial whiff of fruits. Better in the mouth, with red fruits, black plums...initially easy-going, but then with air, reveals it's power with metallic tannins. Alcohol shows more with airtime (2 hours). 14% B+

Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay, 'vendanges selectionnees', 1999
Can't get more Fall-like than this. Color is slightly mature with some orange-rind already. Dried orange peel, Beeman's Pepsin gum, and cherry confit aromas, echoed on the palate, along with rose petal, branches of cherrywood, definately better with food than without it. Very nice. A-
 
Beeman's - wow, that takes me back.

'Have one of the 99 Lafarge's with me and am looking forward to it.
Palmina's whites are some of the best in the west.
"Monumental" my ass (wait that didn't come out right)!
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by MarkS:

Charles Joguet, Chinon, 'les Varennes du Grand Clos', 2003
Yes, it's not 'cool' to say you like this wine here, as it's not in the LDM stable of cab franc,
Where would you get a dopey notion like that?
 
My take would be that the occasional lack of love expressed for Joguet in these parts has more to do with a sense of declining quality at the domaine over the last ten vintages (+/-), coupled with an increase in quality from certain other Chinon producers over the same period.

Nothing to do with who imports the stuff.

I haven't tasted enough of the older wines to take a strong position on this myself, but the Joguet wines I've tasted from the last few vintages generally haven't been among my favorites from Chinon.

I did like some of the 2005s, though.
 
originally posted by slaton:
My take would be that the occasional lack of love expressed for Joguet in these parts has more to do with a sense of declining quality at the domaine over the last ten vintages (+/-), coupled with an increase in quality from certain other Chinon producers over the same period.

I think so too. Although due to my lack of dedication and persistence, my tasting of Chinon is somewhat
haphazard, so just what is meant by "quality" is an elusive abstraction as far as prevailing tastes.
For example, Alliet is excellent/No they're too oaky. I did find the Joguet 02s to be of merit along with the 05s.
 
originally posted by Ned Hoey:
originally posted by slaton:
My take would be that the occasional lack of love expressed for Joguet in these parts has more to do with a sense of declining quality at the domaine over the last ten vintages (+/-), coupled with an increase in quality from certain other Chinon producers over the same period.

I think so too...

True, but soemtimes one has to take a stab at the Powers-that-be .
For what it's worth, I concur with the decline in qualtiy of Joguet through the 90's vintages, but I think they are back in the stable, not quite in the same vein as 80's-1990 vintages, but very good. And I also like the LDM stable myself, just wish Croix Boisees wouldn't sell out immediately upon release. Perhaps I need to raid Monkey Man's cellar?
 
originally posted by MarkS:

True, but soemtimes one has to take a stab at the Powers-that-be .
[/qoute]

In Chris' absence, I'm the arbiter of what's cool around here, and I assure you that there is a lot of worthy Cab Franc from other importers, and some not imported at all.

Actually, you summarize Joguet's trajectory pretty well.
 
originally posted by VLM:

This may interest you.:

1996 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boisse
Im of two minds about this wine...What really makes this wine rise above the crowd is the precision of it. You can truly tell the quality of the site. The palate is in a little more confusing place at the moment. It is coiled enough, but doesnt really seem to fan across the palate. This could mean one of two things: either the palate is drying out or it is just not quite there yet. I think I'll wait another 3-5 for my next bottle.

I would think that the precision is partially from the focused acid, which may also contribute to the lack of fanning across the palate. I don't have the same historical experience with 1996s that others do, but from tastings in recent years with this wine and others from the region that has been my experience.

Interesting that you'll wait 3-5 years before opening another bottle. I thought you liked to finish your Chinon before it got too old!
 
originally posted by MarkS:

Charles Joguet, Chinon, 'les Varennes du Grand Clos',
The 1989 sang last night, thanks fb. Just brilliant, and not old at all--20 more fine years, it would seem, if you have enough to hold. But it's hard to imagine it ever being better than it was last night.
 
Thanks for the Joguet note; I have a couple bottles of his 03 Dioterie I've been thinking about, your note gives me courage.

... they are back in the stable ...

?? this means they're good again, right ?

originally posted by Florida Jim:"Monumental" my ass (wait that didn't come out right)!

This reminds me of the short-lived Washington, D.C., condom advertising campaign, featured on city taxi cabs a few years ago. The slogan went "For your favorite monument."
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by MarkS:

Charles Joguet, Chinon, 'les Varennes du Grand Clos',
The 1989 sang last night, thanks fb. Just brilliant, and not old at all--20 more fine years, it would seem, if you have enough to hold. But it's hard to imagine it ever being better than it was last night.

The '05 was so good even I bought six bottles. I even bought a bunch of bottles of the '05 Dioterie, which was even better.
 
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