I'm better now . . .

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
A lower GI virus took me away from wine and most food for the last week or so (it is always instructive to see what Im like without a nightly dram or two I think that, should my doctor, at some future moment, tell me that I can drink no more, it would not be as terrible as I might first have thought). But I am back now and to celebrate, I thought Id open a few bottles of more than passing interest to me.

2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel:
A recent 2001 F.X. Pichler M is similar but this is made of sterner stuff; no less concentrated and oily textured, this hasnt the weight or out-sizedness of the Pichler; clear, pure, powerfully floral and remarkably complex but all riding on a backbone of acidity that is sculpted and tends to control the experience. And a nose that is chiseled but still expansive from across the room.
As much as I enjoyed the Pichler, this is the one for me. There is a feeling of timelessness drinking this wine as though this is what Singerriedel (and nothing else) is, always has been and ever will be. Makes me think good thoughts about those 1999s I have laid down.
Glorious!

1991 Phelps, Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard:
Much as I would like to say otherwise, this is does not live up to its billing. Its not bad wine, quite the contrary; everything that should be there is but nothing is inspired here and there isnt any signature of the vineyard that, considering where this was born, damn sure should be. A bit tired maybe, showing complexity and a certain finesse but the pedigree here warrants more.

1999 Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles:
Dark, thick, very smooth and with a touch of VA; if that doesnt sound all that good then its my bad because this works; it isnt typical Gevrey but it shows the marks of its place; it isnt high in alcohol (13%) but it has the viscosity of a wine half again its size; it is all about black fruit and clean dirt; good aromatics, great intensity (very old vines) and lots of finish. A wine to have with steak, roast or game and evocative of the winter table.
Pretty yummy.

And dinner with friends:

Fresh pea soup - 2007 de Villaine, Aligote:
A good pairing with the wines freshness mingling well with the just picked flavor of the peas. Aligote is not a favorite of mine but this pairing made the wine seem juicy and less musky than what I usually find.

Roasted chicken with butternut squash risotto - 2007 Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers:
Exceptional pairing; the chicken was roasted with sage and butter so that it was richer than expected and the wines Fleurie-ness was in full song. Although showing quite young, the bird helped broaden the palate of the wine and the wine cut the buttery notes of the chicken.
Also opened, a 2007 de Villaine, La Fortune, which was also a good pairing and tended toward the lighter style of pinot noir from this producer still, perfectly balanced and well-flavored, this is for drinking short term.

Livin large, again.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
I'm better now

. . .1991 Phelps, Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard
Much as I would like to say otherwise, this is does not live up to its billing.

Jim, Glad you're on the mend!

Too bad about the Phelps. I don't hear about (or observe) too many bad samplings of Eisele Vineyard bottlings.

Your dinner does sound wonderful.

. . . . . Pete
 
"weight or out-sizedness of the Pichler"

i used to think this way about FXP (my tag : "the Z-H of Austria") until i recently had a 93. perhaps it was the vintage, but it certainly was a beauty without any heavy hands grabbing you by the throat! then again, i drank it without a comparison bottle. but gosh, it was fun.

good to hear you're better, Mark
 
don't get me wrong, i liked the wine as well. it was just big, and i tend towards more mellow (heck, i trained in the Haight!)
i was lucky many a year ago when the dog and vin divino show came to napa valley. got to taste hirtzberger/knoll/prather/FX all at the same time. i disrespected the FX amongst their brethren. only bought Hirtzberger and lusted after all things knoll since. but david schildknecht had forced to buy some FX, and in retrospect, what a concept! i only have old pichler, but it has indeed aged well. but i still wonder if that particular vintage forced a tamer hand.
 
Older FX Pichler was made in a lighter style. '87 Cabinet FX Pichler for instance. Totally a different animal than FX Pichler "M" today. Almost Mittel Mosel-ish, with green lightning flavors (!). I tried some '91 side by side with some '92 Kellerber Smaragd not too long ago. The differences were instructive. The '91 was the lighter voice, and the more interesting to me. The '92 seemed to be moving much more into the style that we find today.
 
'89 Singerriedel was awfully good last week. It may be thinning out a bit, and I wouldn't keep it forever, but it was in a delicious place.

Similarly, '89 Knoll Ried Schutt (riesling smaragd) pleased me a great deal, though opinion in the room seemed divided on it.
 
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