TN: A delicious dinner in Brooklyn.

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
Some wines last night at the home of Suzanne Camhi and Kenny Shusterman in beautiful and historic Brooklyn Heights. Suzanne and Kenny cooked up a delicious feast and the evening was made complete with the company of the always delightful Karrie and Mark Russo. Thanks for a great evening!

Didnt jot down notes on the 01 Montrachet we started with, or a 07 Roulot- Monthelie we had as the first red. Neither did all that much for me.

2002 Domaine de la Romane-Conti- chzeaux
Showing rather unevolved. Pure cherries and strawberry dominate with good acid levels and full tannins, but its showing no secondary development whatsoever. The sweetness and focus of the fruit is thoroughly enjoyable, though this was certainly killing a baby. I believe this was double decanted earlier in the afternoon. A rare treat. Many thanks to Suzanne for opening one up in the name of science, but hold, hold, hold! A-.

1978 Oddero- Barolo
Initially the wine was dominated by earthy, leathery and licorice components and while fine in an old, perhaps slightly tired way, there was no real spark here. That all changed the longer it stayed in the glass. Though it had been double decanted in the afternoon, it still took about an hour in the glass for the wine to come alive. Without warning, beautiful cherry/raspberry fruit came out of nowhere to take the lead and melded all the components into a beautiful package. Solid A-.

1995 Peyre Rose- Coteaux du Languedoc Clos des Cistes
My last bottle of this wine and it showed brilliantly. A blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Grenache, its spent much of the past 14 years being rather tough and gamey, though in a good way. Tonight it was just singing. Fully integrated and dare I say silky, something I never wouldve expected from this wine. The raspberry fruit was sweet, but not jammy and at the forefront with game, earth, licorice and light spiciness backing it up. Just a perfect match with the lamb. The only negative was that after being open a couple of hours the fruit receded and the wine got more tannic and coarse. Id start to drink up. Its in a gorgeous spot right now. Low A.

1996 Baumard- Quarts de Chaume (from 375 ml)
Opened my last half bottle of this to see where it was in its evolution. Still fresh and vibrant, though its lost some of the youthful mlange of yellow fruits and is more in the apricot range of things. Just starting to take on light hints of earl grey tea, with plenty of honey and candied kumquats. Intensely sweet, though the beauty of 96s from the Loire are their razor sharp acidity that keeps everything in check. Beautiful wine. No rush on these, especially if its in 750 ml. Solid A.

Some pictures from the evening:

The hosts with the most.

Karrie & Mark.

A delicious starter.

Suzanne brings out the lamb.

Good eats!

Suzanne and her NY Times plum cake.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Didnt jot down notes on the 01 Montrachet we started with, or a 07 Roulot- Monthelie we had as the first red. Neither did all that much for me.
You're so spoiled, Brad... Not even noticing a bottle of Montrachet! (Which producer, BTW?) Heck, me, I've only drunk Montrachet six or seven times in my whole (long) life, and I'd certainly take nervous notes about another bottle of the stuff, even if it winds up not being all that great! ;-)
 
originally posted by VS:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Didnt jot down notes on the 01 Montrachet we started with, or a 07 Roulot- Monthelie we had as the first red. Neither did all that much for me.
You're so spoiled, Brad... Not even noticing a bottle of Montrachet! (Which producer, BTW?) Heck, me, I've only drunk Montrachet six or seven times in my whole (long) life...

Wow. I'm actually stunned to hear you say you've only had that many Montrachet in your life with as much tasting as you do. To me Montrachet just means overpriced Chardonnay, in French.

Since you're keeping score at home, the Montrachet was the '01 Jacques Prieur. Suzanne opened it because she was starting to worry about the color. It was indeed starting to darken and showed slightly advanced. The wine was pleasant enough with some citrus and mineral flavors along with a touch of nuttiness. Fairly elegant in the mouth, but I tend to find Chardonnay pretty boring and I didn't like the oak in it, though it wasn't too overly done. Fine, but nothing to write home about. Call it a B+/B.
 
Well, I have had the Prieur ('96), and this producer's version certainly isn't the best Montrachet around. (In the end, the Musigny is the only really stunning Prieur wine year in and year out, IMHO.) OTOH, the 1989 Ramonet Montrachet was the best non-riesling dry white I've ever had...

BTW, I have had more than six or seven Montrachets because two of the occasions were large Montrachet tastings. But no, in this forlorn southwestern corner of Europe we don't see too many of those...
 
originally posted by VS:
Well, I have had the Prieur ('96), and this producer's version certainly isn't the best Montrachet around. (In the end, the Musigny is the only really stunning Prieur wine year in and year out, IMHO.)
Victor -- Have you had recent Prieurs? There's been a major evolution in style since 1996. Much less forced and brutal wines, much more elegant now.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by VS:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
Didnt jot down notes on the 01 Montrachet we started with, or a 07 Roulot- Monthelie we had as the first red. Neither did all that much for me.
You're so spoiled, Brad... Not even noticing a bottle of Montrachet! (Which producer, BTW?) Heck, me, I've only drunk Montrachet six or seven times in my whole (long) life...

Wow. I'm actually stunned to hear you say you've only had that many Montrachet in your life with as much tasting as you do. To me Montrachet just means overpriced Chardonnay, in French.

Since you're keeping score at home, the Montrachet was the '01 Jacques Prieur. Suzanne opened it because she was starting to worry about the color. It was indeed starting to darken and showed slightly advanced. The wine was pleasant enough with some citrus and mineral flavors along with a touch of nuttiness. Fairly elegant in the mouth, but I tend to find Chardonnay pretty boring and I didn't like the oak in it, though it wasn't too overly done. Fine, but nothing to write home about. Call it a B+/B.
You're finally learning about red Burgundy,an understanding of white Burgundy may not be far off. You're finally showing signs of being teachable. Will wonders nver cease.
 
originally posted by VS:
But no, in this forlorn southwestern corner of Europe
Is it true that everyone lives on the second floor of a vacant lot?

A good friend brought '05 Ramonet Montrachet to my house late in a dinner party of pretty serious geeks when it was just out. It horrified him a bit how fast everyone reverted to whatever else we were drinking. Something thin and sour, I forget what. But the Ramonet was big fat ripe oaky chardonnay to me. Perhaps I am too much of a Talib to grok the idiom, or maybe this is site that would do better in a less ripe vintage, or something. But it really didn't seem to have the structure for the ages.

I haven't had any more Montrachet than you have, so I doubt my judgment to some degree, but on that night the much less famous and expensive wine was what I wanted to drink.
 
I would add that these geeks mostly don't post here, and that they drink a lot more white Burgundy than I do.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by SFJoe:
I would add that these geeks mostly don't post here, and that they drink a lot more white Burgundy than I do.

Must be on the secret .sasha board.
Ha.

If you only knew.

Dan Brown's next novel will grope at the answer.
 
Montrachet is too common. Just about every old negociant makes one.

Criots-Batard-Montrachet is where it is at. That is something rare.

[smiley emoticon insert]
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
Have you had recent Prieurs? There's been a major evolution in style since 1996. Much less forced and brutal wines, much more elegant now.
Oh, indeed I have. I have visited twice in the past dozen years - with my friend, my German importer and an ultra-Burgundy geek, Florian Hermann Miquel, and with the International Wine Academy in 2005.

Both times we had long talks with Martin Prieur and with Nadine Gublin, who I think is a very capable winemaker, and we tasted a lot of stuff. Actually, when I was richer and had more free time (i.e., before I started making wine myself...), I was the leader of a group of local wine geeks who used to bring in a truckload of wine once a year directly from Burgundian producers (which can be easily done within the European Union), and Jacques Prieur was one of the top names who would deign to sell directly to those poor Spaniards, so up to the early 2000s I bought quite a few cases. (Needless to say, people such as Bize-Leroy or Coche-Dury have long waiting lists and will never respond.) And I do appreciate the overall quality of their portfolio. It's just that I don't find many truly thrilling, superior wines among theirs, and at the 1er Cru or Village level I frind them just OK.

On the Ramonet: of course the unreliability of this estate is such that you can't trust it. But that 1989 was phenomenal. Actually, we had it in Dublin, head to head with the 1989 DRC Montrachet, and it outclassed the DRC. However, from a great vintage (like 1989 or 2005) I would never drink a four year-old Montrachet, because it will only be a fat monolithic chardonnay. I think Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne demand the old 'ten year rule'.

BTW, I am not a recent convert to Burgundy - Burgundy and Swiss wines were my first alcoholic drinks when I was a 15 year-old with wine-loving parents living in Geneva, and that first love has remained my, well, first love...
 
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