TN: Miscellaneous September notes

Charvin Ctes-du-Rhne 2006
Remains beautifully open and red-fruity with a Kirsch Schnaps top note, soft roasted Provenal herbs and pepper, and flinty-pebbly minerality. Nicely mouth-cleansing tannin. Medium body and length. Pretty wine! Rating: 87

Chteau Giscours Margaux 2000
Ordered from a restaurant wine list at 87 dollars, this remains very fairly priced. A wine I had been looking forward to retasting ever since release, when I thought it an extraordinary QPR buy. Deep lightly purple ruby-black, opaque centre. Very well-balanced, complex lightly violety fruit, still faintly youthfully bitter tannin, minerally, nice metal soil notes, quite long on the finish. Not the weight of the top wines, but another potentially very harmonious 2000. Rating: 92+/93(+?)

Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1996
A bottle I opened for my parents. Needs to poured with care, as it was neither filtered nor fined, and contains some sediment at this stage. Cannot say I prefer the 1996 to the 1995 apart from the fact that it is the ageworthier of the two. Healthy raspberry-ruby-red, some black reflexions. Well-concentrated. Fractionally brighter yet less sweet, red or uplifting fruit. Higher red onion flavoured acidity, tighter tannin. No undue dryness. Lovely intense forest floor, less tree bark, soft minerals. Virtually no oak is noticeable at this stage anymore. Persistent and quite long on the finish. May need more bottle age to show at its best, but really one of those 1996s where I would not bet on that. My parents were ecstatic about the wine. Rating: 91(+/-?)

Pia Maria Pagani de Marchi Rosso Montescudaio Montaleo 2007
Thanks to my parents. A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot. Full ruby red colour. An inexpensive, gastronomy-style if oak-free wine, smooth and fairly round liquified metal and fig sweetness, integrates its substantial 14% alcohol quite well, balanced, lightly heavy-handed roasted rosemary and sage flavoured tannin, but not rustic at all as my mother had feared. Medium length. Did not hold up too well with airing until the next day. Good value for the money, even so, my parents will not buy more, as the wine is lacking in personality. Rating: 86-

Chteau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2002
From magnum thanks to Remo. A blend of 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc. Opaque ruby-purple, ruby-red at the rim. Intense, sweet and pure blackcurrant, bright berry notes, wet earth, bakery/bread dough spice, perhaps a suggestion of St. Julien-like tobacco. Green licorice stick to a goodly amount of finely grained, otherwise sweet tannin. Touch of vanilla, clove and faint marzipan oak mainly on the otherwise fruity back end, with airing also powdered cinnamon. Good (Remo says nice but no more than medium-plus) body and length. The 14.3% alcohol is quite well integrated, nicely warming if at all noticeable. A very well-balanced, potentially harmonious wine, without the intense soil notes of e.g. a Dunn, but a softly minerally, nicely Bordeaux-styled Napa. Oliver and Remo were absolutely delighted. Rating: 93+/94?

E. de Montmollin Fils Auvernier Pinot Gris 2006
Thanks to Ursi. Light and tasty little QPR Pinot Gris to have with appetizers, lightly floral, soft acidity, medium length at best. Rating: 83-

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabaj 2004
Thanks to Remo. Full ruby-black, watery pink at the rim. Sweet raisiny black cherry, darker dried rose petal, riper tannin and acidity, and more noticeable alcohol than the 2001. Not as firm and expressive of soil notes as the 2001 (which prompted Remo to complain that the 2004 has a relative lack of character I like the 2004 as well, but am not entirely sure I would have picked this as Rabaj in a blind tasting), but this should both (relatively speaking, that is, taking into account the three years difference in age) drink well earlier as well as age harmoniously and thus perhaps longer (that is, without drying out at the far end). Nicely (but not very) tannic yet warmingly fruity finish. Finesse notes of dried oregano and thyme. Lovely wine, perhaps less intriguing than the 2001, but both are rare fine QPR Baroli. This drank better on the second day in the recorked bottle, and really deserves a few more years in the cellar. In short, the 2001 seems more classic, but less hard-core Piedmont lovers will find the 2004 easier to appreciate. Rating: 92+?

Taylor's Vintage Port Quinta de Vargellas 1987
From half bottle. Same as always. Still almost opaque ruby-black colour. Sweet macerated and honeyed violet, pretty tannin, soft acidity, a bit creamy and hot, with a touch of viscous cedar, soft but racy plum and cherry finish and aftertaste. This is no longer improving, at least not in this format. The remainder even turned slightly hot in the decanter until the next day. Rating: 91-/90(-?)

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
originally posted by David from Switzerland:

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabaj 2004 rare fine QPR Baroli.
Barbaresci?

I've also tried the 04 lineup (with one exception, and it might have been the Rabaj, but might as well have been the Asili, I forgot). I was slightly underwhelemed by how muted and alcoholic most were showing, but I guess it is just a matter of time... I hope. Plus I am in no position yet to judge young wines, and to be repetitive, I guess it is just a matter of time... I hope.

And thanks for your note on the 97 Elio Grasso Ginestra Casa Mate a few weeks back. I will try the 89 soon. How do you compare the GCM to the Gavarini Chiniera?

Cristian
 
originally posted by Cristian Dezso:
Barbaresci?

I've also tried the 04 lineup (with one exception, and it might have been the Rabaj, but might as well have been the Asili, I forgot). I was slightly underwhelemed by how muted and alcoholic most were showing, but I guess it is just a matter of time... I hope. Plus I am in no position yet to judge young wines, and to be repetitive, I guess it is just a matter of time... I hope.

And thanks for your note on the 97 Elio Grasso Ginestra Casa Mate a few weeks back. I will try the 89 soon. How do you compare the GCM to the Gavarini Chiniera?

Cristian

Forgive the faux pas - I really meant either: hard to find Barolo and Barbaresco on this level of quality at this price. The correct spelling of the plural (in Italian) would be Barbareschi, by the way - just a detail. I haven't had the Gavarini Chiniera from the 1997 vintage. The main difference there would have to be one of terroir. The Rncot, which we had a couple of weeks ago (TN should follow soon), tends to be the one that differs most within their portfolio insofar as it shows noticeable new oak.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
chi, right; and I meant Gavarini Chiniera in general rather than a specific vintage, how do you compare it to the Ginestra?

Cristian
 
originally posted by Cristian Dezso:
chi, right; and I meant Gavarini Chiniera in general rather than a specific vintage, how do you compare it to the Ginestra?

Cristian

The Ginestra Casa Mat is typically (slightly!) more powerful and structured, the Gavarini Chiniera the more perfumy and fruity, but both are essentially typical examples of the Monforte zone.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
David, any thoughts about the drinking windows of the 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco cru wines? I was guessing they're probably at least at the young end of being ready.
 
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
David, any thoughts about the drinking windows of the 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco cru wines? I was guessing they're probably at least at the young end of being ready.

Quickly discussed this with my friend Oliver, who drinks these with greater regularity than anyone else I know: the 2000 Riservas from Asili, Rio Sordo and Ovello have entered their plateau of maturity, that is, they'll keep (until circa 2015) but not necessarily improve from here; Rabaj, Montefico, Montestefano and Paj aren't fully there yet and currently need half an hour's to an hour's worth of decanting/airing (Oli's estimation there is that the latter should all keep until circa 2018/20). He's drinking up the fruity/floral Asili first, of which he says bottles need to be drained the same day, as the wine tends to oxidize overnight. Cheers!

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
Please say thanks to your friend Oliver, David. I've got the Ovello, Rio Sordo, Montestefano and Paje and will keep his notes in mind. In addition, I have the Pora and Moccagatta. Does Oliver have experience with these as well? (I had been mulling over the thought of doing a horizontal tasting originally, but don't want to waste any wine due to premature openings.)
 
originally posted by Joel Stewart:
Please say thanks to your friend Oliver, David. I've got the Ovello, Rio Sordo, Montestefano and Paje and will keep his notes in mind. In addition, I have the Pora and Moccagatta. Does Oliver have experience with these as well? (I had been mulling over the thought of doing a horizontal tasting originally, but don't want to waste any wine due to premature openings.)

Oli says (haven't had those) they were the least impressive in the 2000 portfolio at release, and assumes they should be fully approachable by now.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________

J'ai gch vingt ans de mes plus belles annes au billard. Si c'tait refaire, je recommencerais. Roger Conti
 
Thanks to you both for the very helpful information, David. The PdB website is also fairly informative regarding the crus' various temperaments, so that's why I thought a horizontal in the near future might be interesting.
 
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