It was with glee tinged with a whiff of relief that Jay Miller announced that some big top secret project he was working on to save the world was finally over and that it was time to celebrate our survival. Okay. Maybe it wasnt such an important project, but, Jay had been very busy and suddenly found some free time and wanted to see some friends, do some cooking and drink some wine. So, two Saturdays ago, a hardy group ventured out to Jersey City to help make Jays wish come true.
It was a motley crew comprised mostly of New Jersey and ex-New Jersey denizens. That contingent consisted of Chris and Lisa Coad, formally of Jersey City, now of Roosevelt Isle, Jays Jersey City neighbor, Cheryl Mills was there, too. Also from the swamp were Paul and Sandy Jaouen and Eden Blum & Scott Seyffarth. Tony Fletcher is in from the hinterlands of upstate. I forget where, but do know its where bears roam and coyotes howl. Suzanne Camhi and Kenny Shusterman have crossed two rivers to represent Brooklyn, leaving SFJoe and myself as the only Manhattan sophisticates.
Many thanks to Jay for his hospitality and his usual bang-up job in the kitchen. There was quite an array of wine. I tasted a bunch of items, but didnt get to everything. Notes are in the order I tried them.
2002 Domaine de la Ppire- Muscadet de Svre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes "Clos des Briords"
Just brilliant. So alive and full of energy. Beautifully minerally and citrusy, its just starting to take on rounded edges, a creamier texture and a honeyed character from age. Helluva a way to start the afternoon. Where are the damn oysters? Solid A-.
2008 Domaine de la Ppire- Muscadet de Svre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes "Clos des Briords"
First try of the 08 and its a must buy. More floral and with more exotic yellow fruits than the 02. As its younger, its more precise with a big acidic backbone. Yellow fruits with maybe a hint of the tropics to them, a touch of quince with frappd minerals. A-.
1989 Emmerich Knoll- Riesling Smaragd, Ried Schutt, Wachau
Golden colored and full of rocks and stones and tropical fruit, it has a powerful and weighty presence on the palate with big-boned structure. Its largely dry, but theres nice ripeness to the fruit. Very enjoyable and had me thinking it would be a great match for a winter squash risotto with bacon and seared scallop risotto appetizer Im planning on making this week. A-.
1971 Kirchmayr- Neuburger Solist, Neusiedlersee
Not my thing. Bone dry, but almost viscous in texture. Pine Sol and citrus notes with a touch of mushrooms and ginger. Past peak and just not doing it for me. D.
2004 Rhys- Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Apples, vanilla and citrus. Decent concentration and acidity, but more oak than I prefer, though I have to admit it wasnt egregiously oaky. I didnt make my Chardonnay face and thats saying something. A bit of alcohol on the finish. B/B-.
1974 Sterling Cellars- Zinfandel, Napa Valley
The brownish/garnet color had me a little worried about the condition. It shows a dusty earth nose with leather and desiccated red fruit. Earth and leather initially dominate on the palate with hints of red fruit and spicy cedar. The wine continued to grow with air with the red fruit taking on pleasant sweetness and nice figgy notes. I heard some folks saying it was like a fine, aged claret, but to me it was more like an old Italian wine due to its more rustic, spicy character and more of a raspberry fruit profile. B.
1995 Chateau-Figeac- St. milion
Cedar, cherry and earth with an utterly banal personality. Its a solid wine, but its as exciting as watching paint dry. B.
1996 Catherine et Pierre Breton- Chinon Les Picasses
Shows a really pretty nose of black fruit, earth and licorice with herb in the background. Young, but emerging from its shell. The fruit is beautiful and pure and integrated nicely with the earth and herb components. No rush on this one. A-.
1990 Olga Raffault- Chinon Les Picasses
Nicely funky on the nose with cherry, herb, earth and leather. Its a bit truculent on the palate, however. The fruit is nowhere near as forward as a bottle I brought out to San Francisco this past Memorial Day, nor did this bottle show all the other goodies this wine usually has to offer. Tannic and austere with like flavors as aromas, but theyre subservient to the structure in this bottle. Its a little like being kicked by Klebb. Low B+.
2001 Domaine de la Mordore- Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuve de la Reine des Bois
Showing much better than a bottle of the 98 I had earlier in the year. Ripe with sweet black fruit, cocoa and sweet bakers spices. Its bit monolithic and showing some wood. Despite that, it tastes good and Im enjoying it, but its spoofy and not really what I look for in CDP. A-.
1989 Casa Ferreirinha- Reserva, Douro Red Wine
I really enjoyed the nose. It was very pretty and old school with tart cherries, dusty earth, old barrels and a touch of leather. On the palate, however, its a bit too rustic even for me. Its astringent and high acid and needs more fruit than it has to support the structure. Bretty with a bunch of cedar, too. C.
2006 Rhys- Pinot Noir, Home Vineyard, San Mateo County
Cherry and cranberry aromas with citrus notes and light funk on the nose. On the palate the cherry fruit shows riper than it does on the nose. Harmonious and delicate. While not particularly complex, its quite enjoyable and easily gulpabale. A-/B+.
2001 Domaine de la Grange des Pres- Vin de Pays de LHrault
Simply gorgeous on the nose and palate. Ripe blackberries, black fruit, licorice, spice, a touch of game and violets. The violet aromas were just so enticing and enjoyable. Ripe, but balanced and still showing some youth to the tannins, though the wine is fairly elegant in the mouth. My non-dessert wine of the day. A/A-.
1999 Karl Lawrence- Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Gary Morisoli Vineyard, Napa Valley
Dominated by delectable chocolate covered cherries with hints of raspberry and cedar. Pretty ripe and not particularly complex, but not overoaked, which is a victory. Easy drinking and it pushes all the hedonistic fun buttons. A-.
1996 Baumard- Savennires Clos Papillon
Ive been worried about this wine as the last few bottles Ive had over the past few years have shown way too advanced. This one was just as it should be. Certainly nutty, but correctly so and the wine is fresh on the palate. Dry with apricot, quince, hazelnut and mineral flavors with terrific structure and length. Im wondering if perhaps this area may have gotten some cooked shipments way back when as all my bottles were purchased on release when I worked retail and stored in a Eurocave. A-.
2002 Baumard- Savennires Clos Papillon
Younger, fresher and more yellow dominated than the 96. This was pretty tough on release, but is more open now. Some sulfur to start, but it blew off to reveal lots of quince, yellow citrus peels and mineral. A long way to go with this one. Dougherty says hed be happy to have it on an airplane, but hes being excessively harsh. He argues that it, like all Baumard wines, are technically correct, but lack personality, but I disagree. It may not be as nervy as some others from the region, but that doesnt mean it lacks personality. A-.
1989 Huet- Vouvray Moelleux 1re Trie, Le Haut-Lieu
Always great to have an 89 Huet. This one is a little funkier than other bottles Ive had recently, with more of a sweaty sock, wet sheep thing going on, but thats well within normal. Deeply colored, sweet, but perfectly balanced as all 89s from Huet are. Apriocts, bergamot, mineral and botrytis to go with the funk notes. Showing some maturity, but we all know this has decades of life ahead of it. It wouldve been wine of the night if not for the Dnnhoff. Solid A.
1998 Dnnhoff- Riesling Eiswein, Oberhuser Brcke
Wowie! What a nose! Penetrating, complex and like cat nip to many of us who remained until the end of the day to try this. Passion fruit, tropical fruit, honeysuckle and mineral aromas. Its intensely sweet on the palate but with laser-like focus and invigorating acidity. Like flavors as aromas and almost too intense on the palate. A thrilling wine and a great way to end the night. Solid A+.
Some pics from the day:
Jay piping the gougeres.
Jay holding ice after forgetting the gougeres pan was just in the oven.
These are not urine samples.
Paul in a stylin shirt.
Joe and Chris practice their sneers.
A bucketful of goodies.
Chris, Cheryl and Tony.
Paul decants.
Kenny, Tony and the rest of the group.
Lisa & Tony.
Jay, Suzanne & Cheryl.
Jay masters his meat.
I try to capture Joe in the golden glow and he repays me with the finger.
Paul & Sandy.
The view from Jays courtyard. Ellis Island to the left, Statue of Liberty to the right, Verrazano Bridge in back.
Sunset in NJ.
It was a motley crew comprised mostly of New Jersey and ex-New Jersey denizens. That contingent consisted of Chris and Lisa Coad, formally of Jersey City, now of Roosevelt Isle, Jays Jersey City neighbor, Cheryl Mills was there, too. Also from the swamp were Paul and Sandy Jaouen and Eden Blum & Scott Seyffarth. Tony Fletcher is in from the hinterlands of upstate. I forget where, but do know its where bears roam and coyotes howl. Suzanne Camhi and Kenny Shusterman have crossed two rivers to represent Brooklyn, leaving SFJoe and myself as the only Manhattan sophisticates.
Many thanks to Jay for his hospitality and his usual bang-up job in the kitchen. There was quite an array of wine. I tasted a bunch of items, but didnt get to everything. Notes are in the order I tried them.
2002 Domaine de la Ppire- Muscadet de Svre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes "Clos des Briords"
Just brilliant. So alive and full of energy. Beautifully minerally and citrusy, its just starting to take on rounded edges, a creamier texture and a honeyed character from age. Helluva a way to start the afternoon. Where are the damn oysters? Solid A-.
2008 Domaine de la Ppire- Muscadet de Svre-et-Maine Sur Lie Vieilles Vignes "Clos des Briords"
First try of the 08 and its a must buy. More floral and with more exotic yellow fruits than the 02. As its younger, its more precise with a big acidic backbone. Yellow fruits with maybe a hint of the tropics to them, a touch of quince with frappd minerals. A-.
1989 Emmerich Knoll- Riesling Smaragd, Ried Schutt, Wachau
Golden colored and full of rocks and stones and tropical fruit, it has a powerful and weighty presence on the palate with big-boned structure. Its largely dry, but theres nice ripeness to the fruit. Very enjoyable and had me thinking it would be a great match for a winter squash risotto with bacon and seared scallop risotto appetizer Im planning on making this week. A-.
1971 Kirchmayr- Neuburger Solist, Neusiedlersee
Not my thing. Bone dry, but almost viscous in texture. Pine Sol and citrus notes with a touch of mushrooms and ginger. Past peak and just not doing it for me. D.
2004 Rhys- Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains
Apples, vanilla and citrus. Decent concentration and acidity, but more oak than I prefer, though I have to admit it wasnt egregiously oaky. I didnt make my Chardonnay face and thats saying something. A bit of alcohol on the finish. B/B-.
1974 Sterling Cellars- Zinfandel, Napa Valley
The brownish/garnet color had me a little worried about the condition. It shows a dusty earth nose with leather and desiccated red fruit. Earth and leather initially dominate on the palate with hints of red fruit and spicy cedar. The wine continued to grow with air with the red fruit taking on pleasant sweetness and nice figgy notes. I heard some folks saying it was like a fine, aged claret, but to me it was more like an old Italian wine due to its more rustic, spicy character and more of a raspberry fruit profile. B.
1995 Chateau-Figeac- St. milion
Cedar, cherry and earth with an utterly banal personality. Its a solid wine, but its as exciting as watching paint dry. B.
1996 Catherine et Pierre Breton- Chinon Les Picasses
Shows a really pretty nose of black fruit, earth and licorice with herb in the background. Young, but emerging from its shell. The fruit is beautiful and pure and integrated nicely with the earth and herb components. No rush on this one. A-.
1990 Olga Raffault- Chinon Les Picasses
Nicely funky on the nose with cherry, herb, earth and leather. Its a bit truculent on the palate, however. The fruit is nowhere near as forward as a bottle I brought out to San Francisco this past Memorial Day, nor did this bottle show all the other goodies this wine usually has to offer. Tannic and austere with like flavors as aromas, but theyre subservient to the structure in this bottle. Its a little like being kicked by Klebb. Low B+.
2001 Domaine de la Mordore- Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuve de la Reine des Bois
Showing much better than a bottle of the 98 I had earlier in the year. Ripe with sweet black fruit, cocoa and sweet bakers spices. Its bit monolithic and showing some wood. Despite that, it tastes good and Im enjoying it, but its spoofy and not really what I look for in CDP. A-.
1989 Casa Ferreirinha- Reserva, Douro Red Wine
I really enjoyed the nose. It was very pretty and old school with tart cherries, dusty earth, old barrels and a touch of leather. On the palate, however, its a bit too rustic even for me. Its astringent and high acid and needs more fruit than it has to support the structure. Bretty with a bunch of cedar, too. C.
2006 Rhys- Pinot Noir, Home Vineyard, San Mateo County
Cherry and cranberry aromas with citrus notes and light funk on the nose. On the palate the cherry fruit shows riper than it does on the nose. Harmonious and delicate. While not particularly complex, its quite enjoyable and easily gulpabale. A-/B+.
2001 Domaine de la Grange des Pres- Vin de Pays de LHrault
Simply gorgeous on the nose and palate. Ripe blackberries, black fruit, licorice, spice, a touch of game and violets. The violet aromas were just so enticing and enjoyable. Ripe, but balanced and still showing some youth to the tannins, though the wine is fairly elegant in the mouth. My non-dessert wine of the day. A/A-.
1999 Karl Lawrence- Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Gary Morisoli Vineyard, Napa Valley
Dominated by delectable chocolate covered cherries with hints of raspberry and cedar. Pretty ripe and not particularly complex, but not overoaked, which is a victory. Easy drinking and it pushes all the hedonistic fun buttons. A-.
1996 Baumard- Savennires Clos Papillon
Ive been worried about this wine as the last few bottles Ive had over the past few years have shown way too advanced. This one was just as it should be. Certainly nutty, but correctly so and the wine is fresh on the palate. Dry with apricot, quince, hazelnut and mineral flavors with terrific structure and length. Im wondering if perhaps this area may have gotten some cooked shipments way back when as all my bottles were purchased on release when I worked retail and stored in a Eurocave. A-.
2002 Baumard- Savennires Clos Papillon
Younger, fresher and more yellow dominated than the 96. This was pretty tough on release, but is more open now. Some sulfur to start, but it blew off to reveal lots of quince, yellow citrus peels and mineral. A long way to go with this one. Dougherty says hed be happy to have it on an airplane, but hes being excessively harsh. He argues that it, like all Baumard wines, are technically correct, but lack personality, but I disagree. It may not be as nervy as some others from the region, but that doesnt mean it lacks personality. A-.
1989 Huet- Vouvray Moelleux 1re Trie, Le Haut-Lieu
Always great to have an 89 Huet. This one is a little funkier than other bottles Ive had recently, with more of a sweaty sock, wet sheep thing going on, but thats well within normal. Deeply colored, sweet, but perfectly balanced as all 89s from Huet are. Apriocts, bergamot, mineral and botrytis to go with the funk notes. Showing some maturity, but we all know this has decades of life ahead of it. It wouldve been wine of the night if not for the Dnnhoff. Solid A.
1998 Dnnhoff- Riesling Eiswein, Oberhuser Brcke
Wowie! What a nose! Penetrating, complex and like cat nip to many of us who remained until the end of the day to try this. Passion fruit, tropical fruit, honeysuckle and mineral aromas. Its intensely sweet on the palate but with laser-like focus and invigorating acidity. Like flavors as aromas and almost too intense on the palate. A thrilling wine and a great way to end the night. Solid A+.
Some pics from the day:
Jay piping the gougeres.
Jay holding ice after forgetting the gougeres pan was just in the oven.
These are not urine samples.
Paul in a stylin shirt.
Joe and Chris practice their sneers.
A bucketful of goodies.
Chris, Cheryl and Tony.
Paul decants.
Kenny, Tony and the rest of the group.
Lisa & Tony.
Jay, Suzanne & Cheryl.
Jay masters his meat.
I try to capture Joe in the golden glow and he repays me with the finger.
Paul & Sandy.
The view from Jays courtyard. Ellis Island to the left, Statue of Liberty to the right, Verrazano Bridge in back.
Sunset in NJ.