Four wines

Florida Jim

Florida Jim
1995 Caprai, Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni:
13.5% alcohol and, in its youth, perhaps the most tannic wine I have encountered; now, wonderful warm fruit, tar and earth nose (similar to Barolo but higher pitched) with hints of dark cherry compote and marjoram; still quite tannic but now, at least, the fruit shows through, bright, intense; chalky finish that dries toward the very end. For drinking with very flavorful, fatty food and a chaser of water handy. Considerable sediment required decanting.

2007 Bjrnstad, Pinot Noir Hellenthal Vnyd.:
Yum! A dose of whole cluster comes across on the nose (even though there was none) but with the non-green aspects of that element and plenty of texture (or at least, suggestions of texture); complete in the mouth with the terroir being every bit as important as the fruit, good textures and integration, lovely secondary qualities and a medium length finish. I like this wine, despite its 14.4% alcohol, which never evidences itself. Best guess; given a decade or so this wine will be as special as the Cronin (below) but more elegant.

1994 Dalla Valle, Maya:
This is incomplete it reminds me of a road that was just resurfaced and the remarking isnt finished yet one solid straight line right down the middle and nothing at all at the sides not a bad wine but falling well short of being what it could/should be. A bit drying on the finish. Eh?!

1995 Cronin, Pinot Noir:
Aged Santa Cruz Mtn. wine that is really special; the nose is layered, includes good fruit tones and some earth accents but is also loaded with those secondary and tertiary notes that make pinot so ethereal rotting leaves, truffles, undergrowth, dried herbs, an old steamer trunk this is the nose I search for; almost as good in the mouth with the same dynamic complexity, electric blackberry/black raspberry flavors, a little less in the texture and roundness department but makes up for it in length. All things considered, one of the most character driven domestic pinots Ive had in a long while and fully mature, at that. Thanks Steve.

Best, Jim
 
1994 Dalla Valle, Maya:
This is incomplete it reminds me of a road that was just resurfaced and the remarking isnt finished yet one solid straight line right down the middle and nothing at all at the sides not a bad wine but falling well short of being what it could/should be. A bit drying on the finish. Eh?!

I thought all of the Mayas were long gone...sounds like they really haven't gotten much better...

Interesting comments about the Bjrnstad...not one that I've had...
 
I bought a few of that Cronin back around it's release, like '99 or '00 or so. Wasn't it like $15 or $17? It was very nice then. I wouldn't have necessarily picked it as a cellar candidate but I'm not surprised to hear it improved. I wish I'd saved a few.
 
I bought them for $15 and each $20 a two years ago as K&L sold the winery's cellar after Duane Cronin's death.
Two years ago I went to a gathering of Cronin fans and pinot from the early 1980s was still drinking well.
I thought these wines were close to going over the hill so I babied them. Last time I opened one I used a large, cabinet-mounted lever pull and jammed the cork back into the bottle and broke it off. I had to decant the wine to another bottle. The minerality just exploded after I decanted it. So I learned to stop babying it.
As good as the 1995 Santa Cruz Mountains pinot is, the 1994 is better. I've only got one bottle left of it, though.
Most of the fruit is from the Peter Martin Ray vineyard, although at the get together two years ago his widow talked about how they'd be driving around and he'd see an unused vineyard in someone's backyard and end up getting fruit from it.
Cronin, by the way, has huge bottle variation, as bad as I've seen. The first bottle of the 2000 Chardonnay he named after his wife seemed a couple of years past its prime when I tried it. The second was one of the best California chardonnays I've tried and a freaking steal for $10.
 
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