Nossiter's "Liquid Memory"

originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Excuse me for interrupting, but I have to say "Nigel Groundwater" is a really cool name. Is it real or for Internet use only?

Yes, kind of like Putnam Weekly or Yule Kim or Mule Dog or whoever that new politburo-approved new sock-puppet is (I thought those were 'banned', but I guess it depends on WHO YOU KNOW).

Hold on a sec. You mean like Marks :)

I don't know about cool but Nigel Groundwater is my real name which I use, probably unwisely, on all the websites.

It is Orcadian [i.e. originally and uniquely from the Orkney Islands] and is an Anglicised version of Old Norse 'Grunna Vatn' where the Vikings came ashore and settled on the mainland of Orkney.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
originally posted by SFJoe:
Nossiter's "Liquid Memory"Jonathan Nossiter's book is now out in English. Mikey didn't like at Slate.

I haven't read it, but the review seems all too plausible.

Any dissents from folks who've actually seen it?

You forgot to mention the Nossiter/VS smackdown mentioned by Mr. Steingarten. (I'm looking forward to reading the book review in Elmundovino) I can't say that, on the basis of my experience with 'Mondovino,' I'm going to run out and buy his book. Rather, I'm putting Mikey's "Au Revoir to all that" toward the top of the list of books to buy/beg for.

Mark Lipton

I thought Mike's book was great. It was in total agreement with my experiences as well as my father's and a few friends of doing business in France and the freefall in quality among the low to middle end restaurants and the sclerosis at the top. There are heartening exceptions, but they are exceptions.

It is an breezy, well argued read.
 
originally posted by nigel groundwater:
It is Orcadian [i.e. originally and uniquely from the Orkney Islands] and is an Anglicised version of Old Norse 'Grunna Vatn' where the Vikings came ashore and settled on the mainland of Orkney.
That makes it even cooler.
 
originally posted by Alice F.:
Dogs aside, the book is sadly charmless, and not sure exactly what the screed is about. I have a hard time with a wine writer who swears by real wines and invokes as Godly the names of Lafont and Coche Dury. And is so out of the loop he talks of Romain Lignier as if he were still alive and didn't know of his unfortunate, untimely and tragic death. That mistake is one that makes me feel better about all of the many typos in my own book.
He writes about Romain's death on page 94. While he didn't exactly worship Coche-Dury, I do wish he'd slammed it some. The more bothersome producer nit was his constant slams on Joguet due to the estate's now being under outside ownership, yet he continually lauds Huet without seeming to know of Anthony Hwang's interest. But it's not a reference book and while nits like this are distracting they don't stand in the way of what the book is trying to do.
 
I too find myself on the outside of the anti-Mondovino camp. Sure, he manipulates the footage into a story. Yes, he didn't know how to use a camera, clearly (he says as much in his DVD commentary). But most of the key people get lots of long stretches - they are who they are and they say what they say. Amazing to me Suckling kept his job. And Rolland? The Boisset guy? Magrez? Michael Mondavi? Those Napa people? Wow, how could you make that stuff up?
 
originally posted by Brad L i l j e q u i s t:
Amazing to me Suckling kept his job. And Rolland? The Boisset guy? Magrez? Michael Mondavi? Those Napa people? Wow, how could you make that stuff up?

Well, Rolland's client roster has expanded since Mondovino (whether you call it it fiction, documentary, or mockumentary) came out. Michael Mondavi is now into importing and distribution of wine (http://www.foliowine.com/) and he's probably got a few (or a gazillion) barrels going somewhere of his own stuff. JC Boisset got married to Gina Gallo last month, (http://tinyurl.com/y9r5zco) so he's done okay since the film, and Magrez keeps selling wine (presumably from Aniane in addition to Bordeaux) and the Staglins keep raising lots of money for charity. So it could be argued that Mondovino was good for everyone concerned (except maybe for the flacks who suggested to their employers that it would be a "good PR vehicle) and that the new book will likely improve the fortunes of that Coche-Dury fella.

-Eden (I watched Mondovino again last night and felt kind of embarrassed for just about all of its characters)
 
Thank you, Eden, for a breath of fresh air on this stale topic.

Truly, there is no such thing as bad publicity. (Just ask Bruno Magli.)
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by nigel groundwater:
It is Orcadian [i.e. originally and uniquely from the Orkney Islands] and is an Anglicised version of Old Norse 'Grunna Vatn' where the Vikings came ashore and settled on the mainland of Orkney.
That makes it even cooler.

Truly cool. I had been assuming it was a cover.

The Kirkwall Cathedral is one of my favorites in Britain, along with Lincoln, Coventry, and Durham. The Orkneys are a wonderful place.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Excuse me for interrupting, but I have to say "Nigel Groundwater" is a really cool name. Is it real or for Internet use only?

Yes, kind of like Putnam Weekly or Yule Kim or Mule Dog or whoever that new politburo-approved new sock-puppet is (I thought those were 'banned', but I guess it depends on WHO YOU KNOW).

I'm not a real mule, but I play one on television. I am definitely Politburo approved. May I see your papers, please?

(It's no secret who I am. Just cruise over to Asimov's blog and all will be revealed.)
 
The Steinberger book is dreadful. His complete lack of understanding of french food is evident on every page, as is his preposterous political agenda.
 
originally posted by Tom Blach:
The Steinberger book is dreadful. His complete lack of understanding of french food is evident on every page, as is his preposterous political agenda.

So you vehemently disagree with the premise that French cuisine has been de-centered from the top of the global hierarchy?
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Tom Blach:
The Steinberger book is dreadful. His complete lack of understanding of french food is evident on every page, as is his preposterous political agenda.

So you vehemently disagree with the premise that French cuisine has been de-centered from the top of the global hierarchy?

To me that was just a tangential point and a natural outcome of the greater point which is the sclerosis in French society since Mitterand (and in reaction to 1968).

Over the last 15 years I have been traveling to France I have personally noticed a dip in quality at what used to be reliable sources of a good, reasonable, French meal. Just recently, revisiting my parents old neighborhood around the Rue Cler market, our favorite neighborhood bistro was closed. Our backup was dreadful. A meal at Champs de Mars, which would one would have expected to be fine, and was for a long time, was dreadful AND expensive. The market itself was much less impressive (with the notable exception of the affineur Marie-Anne Cantin) compared to what I have become accustomed to in the States. The best new discovery was a little Spanish place, run by two young guys selling some of that crazy ass jamon from particular pigs and a few other regional things.

The book rung true with my father, who lived in France in the late 60s and then again in the 90s, especially in terms of the climate for business. It also seemed to ring true to our French friends when discussed over dinner.

Tom-

Do you have any specific passages that indicate a fundamental misunderstanding? I didn't find any, but I'll wait until my brother reads it as he worked as a cook in Paris and staged at Arpege, Ducasee, and Maximin.
 
I do disagree with that, though of course there are serious problems as noted by VLM which Steinberger generally misidentifies. Many of the problems lie in the very modernism that Steinberger appears to recommend at the expense of terroir and tradition.
There are two great cuisines on earth, Chinese and French, and everything else is a consequence of one of those two.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Tom Blach:
The Steinberger book is dreadful. His complete lack of understanding of french food is evident on every page, as is his preposterous political agenda.

So you vehemently disagree with the premise that French cuisine has been de-centered from the top of the global hierarchy?

To me that was just a tangential point and a natural outcome of the greater point which is the sclerosis in French society since Mitterand (and in reaction to 1968).

Over the last 15 years I have been traveling to France I have personally noticed a dip in quality at what used to be reliable sources of a good, reasonable, French meal. Just recently, revisiting my parents old neighborhood around the Rue Cler market, our favorite neighborhood bistro was closed. Our backup was dreadful. A meal at Champs de Mars, which would one would have expected to be fine, and was for a long time, was dreadful AND expensive. The market itself was much less impressive (with the notable exception of the affineur Marie-Anne Cantin) compared to what I have become accustomed to in the States. The best new discovery was a little Spanish place, run by two young guys selling some of that crazy ass jamon from particular pigs and a few other regional things.

The book rung true with my father, who lived in France in the late 60s and then again in the 90s, especially in terms of the climate for business. It also seemed to ring true to our French friends when discussed over dinner.

Tom-

Do you have any specific passages that indicate a fundamental misunderstanding? I didn't find any, but I'll wait until my brother reads it as he worked as a cook in Paris and staged at Arpege, Ducasee, and Maximin.

Blame it on Rick Steves
 
I think Cantin is going to grow tired of my near-daily appearances this month, especially as I continue to abuse their language in an effort to buy something. My favorite thing is how, approaching from a downwind direction, one first smells the goat cheeses about thirty feet away. Then the soft cheeses assert themselves at about half that distance. At the moment, there's a staggering (literally) wall of Vacherin Mont d'Or aroma just inside the door. Cheesy heaven.

The rest of the rue Cler...yeah, I could take or leave it. I wish there was a decent covered market (e.g. the St-Germain kind, for example) nearby, but if there is I haven't found it. So far, the Monoprix is proving to have better seafood than any of the specialist vendors within a similar radius, and that's both kinda sad and fairly revealing.

I'm not going to wade into the greater debate again, as I don't want to upset Eric Texier a second time. Generally, I agree with VLM.
 
originally posted by Tom Blach:

There are two great cuisines on earth, Chinese and French, and everything else is a consequence of one of those two.

Tom,
As I haven't read the book, I can't comment. However, your latter comment is debatable to say the least. The cooking of the Indian subcontinent is every bit as rich and varied as what you'll find in the two sources you mentioned, and owes little if anything to either tradition. The case can also be made for the independence (and status) of Italian, Moroccan, Mexican, Thai and Peruvian cuisines as well. Shit hell, if our meal at Cendrillon was anything to go by, I might have to add Filipino cooking to that list, too.

Mark Lipton
 
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