originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Tom Blach:
The Steinberger book is dreadful. His complete lack of understanding of french food is evident on every page, as is his preposterous political agenda.
So you vehemently disagree with the premise that French cuisine has been de-centered from the top of the global hierarchy?
To me that was just a tangential point and a natural outcome of the greater point which is the sclerosis in French society since Mitterand (and in reaction to 1968).
Over the last 15 years I have been traveling to France I have personally noticed a dip in quality at what used to be reliable sources of a good, reasonable, French meal. Just recently, revisiting my parents old neighborhood around the Rue Cler market, our favorite neighborhood bistro was closed. Our backup was dreadful. A meal at Champs de Mars, which would one would have expected to be fine, and was for a long time, was dreadful AND expensive. The market itself was much less impressive (with the notable exception of the affineur Marie-Anne Cantin) compared to what I have become accustomed to in the States. The best new discovery was a little Spanish place, run by two young guys selling some of that crazy ass jamon from particular pigs and a few other regional things.
The book rung true with my father, who lived in France in the late 60s and then again in the 90s, especially in terms of the climate for business. It also seemed to ring true to our French friends when discussed over dinner.
Tom-
Do you have any specific passages that indicate a fundamental misunderstanding? I didn't find any, but I'll wait until my brother reads it as he worked as a cook in Paris and staged at Arpege, Ducasee, and Maximin.