Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru V.P. Extra-Brut (Champagne) Pinot-dominated by the aromas, but theres a sharpness more reminiscent of something chardonnay-based as well. Whatever the cpage, its highly alive and present, almost in-your-face, with a coiled energy. Its a dramatic wine at the moment, but Id be interested in seeing where its headed. (9/09)
Faller Domaine Weinbach 1999 Pinot Gris Cuve Ste-Catherine (Alsace) From a difficult vintage known for deficient acidity, a grape not exactly known for crispness, and a house inclined towards late-hanging fruit (albeit rarely with an absence of acidity). Plus, ten years old. In other words, theres every reason to suspect this wine is going to disappoint, and do so in a predictable fashion. Well, strike one for the defiance possible with enough conviction, because this is really, really good. Spiced pear lingers, in a more blended form than in the wines youth, but fine, unpolished-metal minerality has emerged to take point, and the light sweetness and pretty acidity are in perfect balance. Long and very good, but most of all: surprising. (8/09)
Blanck 2002 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg (Alsace) The first bottle (of a fair quantity) that has appeared to show signs of being on the other side of its closed period. Thankfully, theres reward for the promise of youth. Strappy, smoked pork elements have just barely started to emerge, lychee has gained a jacket of iron, and the cashews and almonds have started to shed their oil and present a harder-edged aspect. Theres pretty good acidity, still, and this will carry the wine for quite some years yet. (9/09)
Zusslin 2007 Pinot dAlsace Auxerrois (Alsace) Many a pinot blanc from Alsace shows clearly how it benefits from the thicker, spicier weight of auxerrois as a blending grape. Thus, its no surprise that the reverse is also true; auxerrois, on its own, can be a little heavy and deadening for its own good, despite a surplus of exciting flavors. This wine manages more lightness than is usual for the grape, but does it at the sacrifice of the more developed spice and stone fruit aromas that comprise the grapes appeal in the region. OK, but only just. (10/09)
Bott-Geyl 2004 Gentil (Alsace) Smooth, deft stone fruit and the lightest forms of citrus, with a little bit of that classic Alsatian spice. Strong-willed for a Gentil, but not heavy. Very appealing. (8/09)
Faller Domaine Weinbach 1999 Pinot Gris Cuve Ste-Catherine (Alsace) From a difficult vintage known for deficient acidity, a grape not exactly known for crispness, and a house inclined towards late-hanging fruit (albeit rarely with an absence of acidity). Plus, ten years old. In other words, theres every reason to suspect this wine is going to disappoint, and do so in a predictable fashion. Well, strike one for the defiance possible with enough conviction, because this is really, really good. Spiced pear lingers, in a more blended form than in the wines youth, but fine, unpolished-metal minerality has emerged to take point, and the light sweetness and pretty acidity are in perfect balance. Long and very good, but most of all: surprising. (8/09)
Blanck 2002 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg (Alsace) The first bottle (of a fair quantity) that has appeared to show signs of being on the other side of its closed period. Thankfully, theres reward for the promise of youth. Strappy, smoked pork elements have just barely started to emerge, lychee has gained a jacket of iron, and the cashews and almonds have started to shed their oil and present a harder-edged aspect. Theres pretty good acidity, still, and this will carry the wine for quite some years yet. (9/09)
Zusslin 2007 Pinot dAlsace Auxerrois (Alsace) Many a pinot blanc from Alsace shows clearly how it benefits from the thicker, spicier weight of auxerrois as a blending grape. Thus, its no surprise that the reverse is also true; auxerrois, on its own, can be a little heavy and deadening for its own good, despite a surplus of exciting flavors. This wine manages more lightness than is usual for the grape, but does it at the sacrifice of the more developed spice and stone fruit aromas that comprise the grapes appeal in the region. OK, but only just. (10/09)
Bott-Geyl 2004 Gentil (Alsace) Smooth, deft stone fruit and the lightest forms of citrus, with a little bit of that classic Alsatian spice. Strong-willed for a Gentil, but not heavy. Very appealing. (8/09)